POR 15 equivalents?

[Truck82]

If things are reasonably clean, I've have had good success with flat black Rust-Oleum, professional (the larger can, silver, not white).

It holds up remarkably well for what it is. Quick and tough.

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I did the underside rear wheel tubs on the 76 with that, that has been 8 years, with about 6 being a daily driver in any and all weather conditions and they still look like when I sprayed them. Just DA sanded, no primer, didn't really wipe them down.

And this is with a spray can or brush on?
That looks really good, actually.

Here's a couple of pictures of those wheel tubs, think it was semi gloss, not flat. Still have held up way, way better than it has any right to.

Dirty obviously, but that's because I never really wash the truck.

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That’s held up real nice especially for where it’s at. Those wheel tubs get abused pretty good

 

[Truck82]

How is the rust situation where you're at?

I'm a fan of epoxy paints for most chassis applications, its affordable, has good adhesion and is fairly chemical resistant.

Another option for the air catalyzed "Rust inhibitor" paints is Rust Bullet.

Paint peals and surface rust happens pretty fast but nothing serious. It’s very wet in western Washington.

 

[Ricko1966]

Brush on rustoleum

 

[legopnuematic]

And this is with a spray can or brush on?

I'm a spray bomber.

Or a spray gun.

Brushes and rollers reminds me too much of house painting

Both examples I shared were done with spray cans.

 

[Frankenchevy]

@legopnuematic get ahold of Jeremy @Frankenchevy he might WASH it for you......lol

I can barely keep up with my own junk!

 

[edgephoto]

In the past I have used POR15 but was not super happy. This was back in the late 80s when the first started and it peeled. Since that time they have added cleaner, prep and other products to their lineup. Back then they only had the black rust coating.

A few years ago I started to repair a Caterpillar backhoe with a pretty rotted cabin. What I did not cut out and replace I used a product called "Mastercoat" to paint. I hit the rust with a wire wheel or flap discs. I cleaned it good and painted the Mastercoat on. The product is silver and is UV stable. I topcoated it with Cat yellow enamel.

Mastercoat has frame black and stuff. They sell mainly to car restorers. I believe the product is made for painting bridges.

So far going on 5 years outside in the weather and it still looks good and no rust came back.

 

[Truck82]

In the past I have used POR15 but was not super happy. This was back in the late 80s when the first started and it peeled. Since that time they have added cleaner, prep and other products to their lineup. Back then they only had the black rust coating.

A few years ago I started to repair a Caterpillar backhoe with a pretty rotted cabin. What I did not cut out and replace I used a product called "Mastercoat" to paint. I hit the rust with a wire wheel or flap discs. I cleaned it good and painted the Mastercoat on. The product is silver and is UV stable. I topcoated it with Cat yellow enamel.

Mastercoat has frame black and stuff. They sell mainly to car restorers. I believe the product is made for painting bridges.

So far going on 5 years outside in the weather and it still looks good and no rust came back.

Yeah, I’ve heard the down side to POR 15 is you really have to make sure it’s CLEAN. They’ve got so many products for cleaning that it gets expensive to do it “the right way”.

This Mastercoat looks to be some tough stuff!

 

[legopnuematic]

Another possible choice is John Deere Blitz black, I have not used it personally, but have heard good things about it durability wise. They also have a 'medium' black, more of a semi gloss I believe. Available at your local John Deere dealer. Can add hardener to it as well.

 

[Art Vandelay]

I redid my tanks. With both I sanded down and hit with Rust Kutter (works great) then one I primed with SW Fastline which was not good so reprimed with SEM metal etch and topped with Seymour Stainless other did all same prep but tried Rustoleum Clean Metal primer and it took almost 4 coats to get even coverage then topped with Seymour. Won’t use that rustoleum again.

Unfortunately Mastercoat is never in stock but that would be my 1st choice.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Magnet paints chassis saver. But my true belief is the acid wash is the magic,not the topcoat,I wash with a water based cleaner( same as por 15 marine clean) I wash with phosphoric acid,I use Ospho,( same as por15 marine clean) I top with whatever I want. The phosphoric acid stopped the rust,( or you can top coat with por15. Do some research on phosphoric acid as metal prep. I believe Por15 took an old 3 step system and relabeled it as new magic,look at this new magic paint,don't look at the science, the metal prep and what's really happening.

Magnet over epoxy primer. Like Ricko said, prep is 90%. I used zep, pressure washer, grinder, lacquer thinner, acid etch, primer, paint. Also clear coat would keep it nice forever. Cost to do the work, materials, consumables, paint was about 800.00. took about forty hours.

 

[Truck82]

Magnet over epoxy primer. Like Ricko said, prep is 90%. I used zep, pressure washer, grinder, lacquer thinner, acid etch, primer, paint. Also clear coat would keep it nice forever. Cost to do the work, materials, consumables, paint was about 800.00. took about forty hours.

That cost a lot of time and money but, dang, that looks great in the end!

 

[Novapwr]

The Mastercoat stuff is a super great product but hard to get. Some guy did a video of test results of various products and now they can't keep it in stock. I've been trying to get some since last fall. Always miss the day a batch becomes available and it sells out. A friend with an old Nova swears by it.

 

[JT58]

I sand, sand and wire brush remove as much of the rust as I can. I then treat with acid/rust treatment (brush on). Then I prime with Rustoleum Rusty metal primer. I use both spray and brush. Then, for axles, suspension components, wheel liners (inside) I use Rustoleum (or equivalent) semi gloss black paint- also spray and brush. For frame and fender liners I use rubberized undercoating or truck bedliner as the final coat (spray). For very hard to get areas I use a rust spray treatment first before the semi-glass back paint. I had to do this on the SM-465 transmission while in the truck. It was very hard to reach way up in some spots. Very labor intensive but results are excellent and I don't spend much on paints or coatings and buy cheap $1 or $2 throw away paint brushes. I prefer to use brush if I can as I don't have to worry about spray getting everywhere, and avoid covering the truck or anything else close by. I even saved my very rusted original battery tray- and it was pretty bad.