Pondering ideas

[coltdaddy47]

Let's start off with that ive never got the chance to build a car engine but I've built a few Harley engines and worked on many bikes. I'm not scared to jump into a engine build and have a few books coming in the mail on building sbc's. There's nothing that I can't do, just things that I haven't done yet.

Jumping ahead my 84 k10 on 40's came with a GM goodwrench 350. It has a Edelbrock intake and carb and some headers. Backed by a 400 and 4.10 gears the truck gets 17mpg average but has no balls. I have another goodwrench crate that I bought for a core and have been thinking about building a stroker like they were originally intended for, nothing fancy and keep it simple. In my mind I'm thinking about getting a "383" kit from summit, the one they suggested is
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-b13055e030/overview/make/chevrolet

Since I like to make things difficult I could take my block to the machine shop and have it checked, bored and aligned etc and do the grinding at home to clearance for the new crank and rods. With a stroker short block I could recondition the crate heads, or redo my 882 heads which summit says should net me with 9.2.1 compression with the kit they suggested. Plan is to take my summit heads off my other engine and replace them with bigger aluminum ones next winter so I could slap those heads on my stroker for a good boost in power after that. I just bought a lunati 10120701LK cam last week that I could use for this new combo. I want more torque and not to kill my mpg like I did in my white truck.

I know it sounds like over kill for just a little increase but It'll be my first build and basically everything will be new. I like to be different and would de stroke a 400 if I didn't have 2 350 cores waiting already. Any tips, comments, constructive advice?

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[Camar068]

I only did 2 things wrong on my first build:

1. let a buddy of mine help me assemble the main caps/bearings
2. Didn't catch that he got them mixed up

Ended up taking it to the machine shop for them to assemble for $400. I let the machine shop do all that work as I only had access to standard tools they had at Eglin Air Force Base in the Hobby Shop.

 

[4WDKC]

need details on the other heads.

sell the 882 heads locally someone may want/need them for class specific racing.

 

[shiftpro]

There's nothing that I can't do, just things that I haven't done yet.

Your attitude is excellent!

Often overlooked is the clearance required for the rod bolts and nuts. The tight spot is just above the bottom rail where the oil pan seals.
You'll actually have to assemble the bottom end to determine this, so don't get too carried away cleaning the block until this is checked.

 

[coltdaddy47]

368 heads. 76cc chambers and small valves. Keep in mind I'm wanting to keep my mpg up and raise torque, hp I could care less about as I already have my white truck that'll spin 35's for a block with 3.08 gears.

 

[coltdaddy47]

@shiftpro I've been watching some videos on YouTube of people checking that and even around the cam area. It's just patience and checking every rod closely. I've thought about building my own kit but really would like to keep my time out of the machine shop and these already balanced kits could save time. This engine is a balance of money and time and a learning experience. It'll be a temporary engine till I can afford to go with something a lot faster then it'll be freshened up and stored as a back up or used in a trail rig.

 

[Snoots]

AND THEY'RE OFF!!!

Good luck with it all.

If I may suggest, do everything to help with longevity of the engine first. Then your other ideas should follow.

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[shiftpro]

@shiftpro I've been watching some videos on YouTube of people checking that and even around the cam area. It's just patience and checking every rod closely. I've thought about building my own kit but really would like to keep my time out of the machine shop and these already balanced kits could save time. This engine is a balance of money and time and a learning experience. It'll be a temporary engine till I can afford to go with something a lot faster then it'll be freshened up and stored as a back up or used in a trail rig.

I'll never grind a stock crank again, for the few extra beans to get a new stroker crank. It's n ice to be in a position you have time to shop... find sroker kits for sale cheap from someone going a differenet direction with their life/build. I found a BB kit and a SB kit in Canada and each was $1000.The BB kit including bearings and H- rods and balanced crank damper, domed forged pistons, rings and flex plate AND new bottom end bolts would have been just over $2000 (Beaver bucks). Maybe closer to 2200. The sb kit I sourced was about the same but without crank cap bolts, but it had a full gasket set.

I keep mentioning to try be a hoarder and always on the shop for guys liquidating unused parts. Wicked savings...
I don't even have a project in mind for the sb stroker kit... but it will come. And tires will

 

[75gmck25]

If you are going to do that much work on the engine, do not waste money on reworking 882 or other smog heads. Its like sticking a restrictor in the intake and exhaust and then trying to build everything better to make up for its shortcomings. Standard iron Vortecs or any number of aftermarket aluminum heads are a much better choice, and won't cost that much more by the time you pay a shop to rework old heads.

I would also consider using a retro-roller conversion cam for long term reliability. If you keep the duration moderate it will still work well for torque in a truck, but you won't have to worry about flat lobes, ZDDP, etc.

Bruce

 

[4WDKC]

368 heads. 76cc chambers and small valves. Keep in mind I'm wanting to keep my mpg up and raise torque, hp I could care less about as I already have my white truck that'll spin 35's for a block with 3.08 gears.

unless you use domed piston the 76cc head will make for low compression defeating your goals. Going withthe alum 113 heads will raise compression, flow better than the 882 heads and be lighter all things that contribute to the goal. The 113 heads also have like a 170cc intake runner making it great for throttle response paired with a smaller carb.

 

[shiftpro]

I would also consider using a retro-roller conversion cam for long term reliability. If you keep the duration moderate it will still work well for torque in a truck, but you won't have to worry about flat lobes, ZDDP, etc.

Except that we don't see long term reliability with retro rollers.... not yet anyway. You can still find 35 yr old engines that run with 150K or more with the original flat tappet.
For a hot rod mill they are certainly something to consider but a daily driver you might want to drive trouble free for years and mega miles...
Sorry just had to add that...

 

[coltdaddy47]

My plans are always changing a little. Didn't want to build this much yet but pulled the trigger on these.

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[newbie17]

To Coltdaddy47- You made my day! It is so refreshing to see a post using "engine" instead of "motor".
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[coltdaddy47]

@newbie17 I know the difference but something i learned to keep the peace is a engine can be a motor, but a motor cannot be a engine. I get to reading so much at times that I even slip up here and there.

 

[shiftpro]

My plans are always changing a little. Didn't want to build this much yet but pulled the trigger on these.

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Looks like a great deal but before you install them you should have an engine builder look them over. Never trust out of the box ready to roll...