Please help me figure out this noise! Video included.

[Giant Rock]

Ever since I've had my 1990 Suburban, about a year, every now and then it begins to make a Clicking noise from somewhere under the front of the truck like near the tire or axle. It sounds almost like a card in a bicycle spoke. Then when I stop there is a heavy Clunk sound and feel that comes from the axle. Sometimes is goes away right after that and sometimes the clunk keeps happening for a bit, feels bad like something is binding...

When the initial Clicking sound is happening there is no clunk or feeling of binding, that only happens after stopping. I finally was able to grab a video of this sound, can anyone tell me what they think it might be? It's tough to describe to a mechanic and since it only happens ever so often I can't exactly have them feel it.

Video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/y3qiezhfpjufhfv/20220102_101610.mp4?dl=0

 

[Bextreme04]

Ever since I've had my 1990 Suburban, about a year, every now and then it begins to make a Clicking noise from somewhere under the front of the truck like near the tire or axle. It sounds almost like a card in a bicycle spoke. Then when I stop there is a heavy Clunk sound and feel that comes from the axle. Sometimes is goes away right after that and sometimes the clunk keeps happening for a bit, feels bad like something is binding...

When the initial Clicking sound is happening there is no clunk or feeling of binding, that only happens after stopping. I finally was able to grab a video of this sound, can anyone tell me what they think it might be? It's tough to describe to a mechanic and since it only happens ever so often I can't exactly have them feel it.

Video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/y3qiezhfpjufhfv/20220102_101610.mp4?dl=0

When was the last time you serviced the manual locking hubs? It sounds like the locking piece is not fully disengaged.

 

[Giant Rock]

When was the last time you serviced the manual locking hubs? It sounds like the locking piece is not fully disengaged.

...well I've never serviced the hubs. In fact I don't even really know what hubs are or if mine are manual or auto locking. But I did just look up a video and saw a guy replacing his and I bet you are 100% correct that they are having something to do with this, the sound seems to come exactly from that spot and I could totally see it being a piece of something flying around in those gears. Thank you so much for putting me on the right track.

Now the question is what kind of hubs do I have and should I just replace them or upgrade them? Actually I bet they are auto because there isn't any mechanism to spin the hub around manually. Are manual better?

 

[Giant Rock]

Ok I've done some research and answered some of my questions above but of course now have more. I've learned I have the auto locking hubs and they are probably bad. I'm going to replace them and replace all the seals and bearings as demonstrated in this video:

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My question is should I upgrade to the manual locking hubs. At first thought I'm like sure why not because they are stronger. But then I realize they may be more of a pain because I drive a lot of sandy roads and enjoy being able to click in and out of 4x4 often and easily. Not sure I want to have to get out and lock the hubs each time I need to drive through a wash or go up some moderate dirt hill. Then I guess I could just leave them in locked position, though I don't know how bad that would for the truck. I've seen some conflicting stuff online about some saying it's ok to leave the hubs locked but others saying it isn't...some say this matters more if the truck has IFS which mine doesn't so maybe its ok?

Got to admit the convenience of the auto hubs is really nice and I'm tempted just to replace them but on the other hand they already broke once and why wouldn't I want the hubs to be beefier?

 

[Blue Ox]

Unless you're hot rodding things the auto hubs don't usually fail because they're "weak" they fail from lack of maintenance. Why don't you try taking them apart and see what kind of shape they are in? Often they can be brought back with a good cleaning and fresh grease.

 

[gmbellew]

did you try putting it in 4wd, driving for a bit, then taking it out of 4wd and backing up to unlock the hubs?

I try to put my truck in 4wd monthly for a quick drive to keep the hubs exercised and grease happy.

 

[Corvette Ed]

I’m with a Bextreme04 and Giant Rock,check that locking hub. Try locking and unlocking them both.

 

[Bextreme04]

Ok I've done some research and answered some of my questions above but of course now have more. I've learned I have the auto locking hubs and they are probably bad. I'm going to replace them and replace all the seals and bearings as demonstrated in this video:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

My question is should I upgrade to the manual locking hubs. At first thought I'm like sure why not because they are stronger. But then I realize they may be more of a pain because I drive a lot of sandy roads and enjoy being able to click in and out of 4x4 often and easily. Not sure I want to have to get out and lock the hubs each time I need to drive through a wash or go up some moderate dirt hill. Then I guess I could just leave them in locked position, though I don't know how bad that would for the truck. I've seen some conflicting stuff online about some saying it's ok to leave the hubs locked but others saying it isn't...some say this matters more if the truck has IFS which mine doesn't so maybe its ok?

Got to admit the convenience of the auto hubs is really nice and I'm tempted just to replace them but on the other hand they already broke once and why wouldn't I want the hubs to be beefier?

I would say pull the locking hubs apart and service them. You likely have solid grease in there at this point. Clean the hell out of everything and re-lube with a good quality grease(not too much though). Most people that do serious offroading convert the auto hubs to manual. I grew up in your area and we used to go everywhere in the desert in a 2wd 1973 F150. You would likely almost never need to get out and lock your hubs, but the biggest problem with the manual hubs is forgetting to UNLOCK them after you are done wheeling. Either way, servicing the hubs regularly is key and unless your current ones end up being wrecked, I wouldn't get new ones.

 

[Giant Rock]

All right guys thanks for all the help, you guys never fail to help a noob out. In the end I've decided to go ahead and upgrade to the Warn Manual Locking Hubs. Which of course are out of stock everywhere...had to overpay ($225 for Warn Hubs) on Ebay but oh well. I've also gotten all the other parts needed to replace all the bearings and seals per the Youtube video link I posted up thread. I asked my local shop how much to do the install of the new hubs and replace all the bearing and seals and they said about $480.00. So yeah fug that, I'm gonna do it myself and follow the instructions in that video best I can. Wish me luck!

 

[Grit dog]

For what you do with your truck, auto hubs are just a good way to have to walk out a long ways to the highway at some point.
It will not hurt your truck to run as long as you want it to with hubs locked.
It may shorten axle u joint life, from almost forever to only half that long.
By comparison, every Dodge solid axle truck from 03-13? did not have any way to unlock the front axle. My old 07 made it about 140k miles before it wore out a front axle u joint.
This is not an issue and locking hubs is a worthwhile upgrade in your situation.

 

[Grit dog]

All right guys thanks for all the help, you guys never fail to help a noob out. In the end I've decided to go ahead and upgrade to the Warn Manual Locking Hubs. Which of course are out of stock everywhere...had to overpay ($225 for Warn Hubs) on Ebay but oh well. I've also gotten all the other parts needed to replace all the bearings and seals per the Youtube video link I posted up thread. I asked my local shop how much to do the install of the new hubs and replace all the bearing and seals and they said about $480.00. So yeah fug that, I'm gonna do it myself and follow the instructions in that video best I can. Wish me luck!

Nice!
It’s not very difficult. Just pull the parts and lay them out in the order and orientation you removed them.
And only do 1 side at a time. Worst case you can disassemble the second side of you get crossways on reassembly of the first side.

 

[Giant Rock]

Nice!
It’s not very difficult. Just pull the parts and lay them out in the order and orientation you removed them.
And only do 1 side at a time. Worst case you can disassemble the second side of you get crossways on reassembly of the first side.

Awesome thanks, that's a good idea. Will be diving into this soon!

 

[Grit dog]

Awesome thanks, that's a good idea. Will be diving into this soon!

It's not too bad to do.
Couple pointers.
I know you got new locking hubs. So that is plug n play, but in general, you don't grease the mechanisms in manual locking hubs, aside from maybe a light coat of low temp grease on sliding surfaces. (Many times, hard to operate hubs are due to a bunch of old crusty grease added to them)
You may need a spanner socket or big socket, sometimes you can get the nuts off by hand or a few taps with a hammer and punch, but not all the time.
A bearing packer is handy. Never had one until last year, not a requirement but...
Don't completely fill the void in the hub, between the bearings with grease.
Some ONLY grease the bearings well, I prefer to put a fair amount of grease in the hub as well, like maybe filling 20% of the void. But don't just fill it up with grease.
Bearing preload, there are torque specs for the bearing retainer nut. But I get it hand tight (no slop). Then crank another 1/4 turn or so making them a bit too tight, to make sure everything is seated well, then back off to loose and just tighten enough to take out any slop. Essentially hand tight again.