Playing with hookers today. 10 out of 10!

[Octane]

Same issue with the stage 8. Header bolts are are about 2 inches too short to work on manifolds.

Yeah, I see. And I do not like the hassle of headers based on issues back in the day with them. I just run 2.25 or 2.50" pipes on stock manifolds, with no issues if you run the bolts with the spring kit that allows some pipe to manifold flex.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I dunno. Luckily my header bolts have been pretty solid. I had issues with the collector bolts loosening, but I double nutted those.

You could always try hedmen headers like mine with the 3/8” thick flange…or LS swap it.

 

[idahovette]

Can you use the old style "straps"" with the tabs that bend over the side of the bolt heads?????

 

[SquareRoot]

I j

I dunno. Luckily my header bolts have been pretty solid. I had issues with the collector bolts loosening, but I double nutted those.

You could always try hedmen headers like mine with the 3/8” thick flange…or LS swap it.

I just took the Hedman headers off and tossed them in the dumpster. These manifolds are 10x better.

 

[SquareRoot]

The collector bolts aren't an issue. They have serrated flange bolts. It's only the exhaust to head bolts that are coming loose. Wonder if star washers would work!

 

[Frankenchevy]

I j
I just took the Hedman headers off and tossed them in the dumpster. These manifolds are 10x better.

I see what you did there. I’m super good at justifying my decisions too.

I can’t believe you didn’t even acknowledge my suggestion to shitcan the whole setup and LS swap it. I’ll be disappointed if that’s not what your next thread is about.

 

[Turbo4whl]

The collector bolts aren't an issue. They have serrated flange bolts. It's only the exhaust to head bolts that are coming loose. Wonder if star washers would work!

The thick gaskets that come with the manifolds are probably the issue. Put a paint mark on the bolts to see if they are backing out or just need to be tightened more.

Factory manifolds had no gaskets on the early small blocks. I would try the stamped steel gaskets. Don't use star washers or split washers. Use grade 5 bolts. Hard bolts can stretch with heat. Special exhaust washers are cupped, use those only if you need them.

 

[SquareRoot]

Ok, did some research and found these gems....NORD-LOCK! They have a great website describing and demonstrating the technology. Got a 20 pack on order via Grainger. Check out the videos in the link:

https://www.grainger.com/product/NORD-LOCK-Wedge-Lock-Washer-For-Screw-12W450?opr=ILOF

 

[SquareRoot]

UPDATE. Just wanted to add a few thoughts and put a fork in this thread.
1. The hex head bolts supplied in the manifold kit don't allow a socket to fit on cylinders 5 & 6. The indentation in the casting is too tight and you have to use an open end wrench to tighten them down. So, if you plan to torque them to spec (25# ft), it ain't happening on those two bolts.
2. The manifold bolts tend to loosen up with heat cycles. I retorqed them 4-5 times the first two weeks after install. Traditional retainers (oem style where you bend the metal tab) don't work because they don't fit the profile of the Hooker manifolds. Stage 8 won't work because you need 2 -1/4" bolts.
3. My SOLUTION: I bought 2-1/2" cap screws from the hardware store. I cut 1/4" off (otherwise they will bottom out in the head) each bolt. I used 3/8 NORD Locks (ordered thru Grainger). This appears to be the perfect solution. The 3/8" hex bit makes tightening the cap bolts a breeze and they even look more professional. Don't forget to use anti-sieze. The NORD Lock washers are amazing.
4. 3/8" bolts are normally torqued to 25# but the NORD Locks specify 31# for them to function properly. There's a torque chart on their website for the size bolts you're using.

 

[Frankenchevy]

if you plan to torque them to spec (25# ft), it ain't happening on those two bolts.

If you ever run into this scenario on something else, a crows foot set might get you dialed in. Of course, the torque setting is altered by lever length. With some experimentation such as torquing a bolt down with a traditional socket, then creeping up on that number with the crows foot until it clicks. I did this on another application and the number was fairly close.

I just torqued a nut and bolt through a steel sleeve the same length of what I was fastening through (to attempt to replicate fastener stretch)in my vise using plenty of torque lube to try to eliminate as many variables as possible.

I guess it worked out well…who knows.

 

[Nasty-LSX]

Damn, does sound good. But your right. phone audio never does it justice!!