Picking up my 14bff & D44.

[crazy4offroad]

And I believe auto hubs are vacuum actuated...I THINK.

 

[89Suburban]

And I believe auto hubs are vacuum actuated...I THINK.

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I never heard of that except on Dodges, and that was an axle shaft connector thing I think.....

 

[HotRodPC]

First off yeah, let that guy shove that axle up his ass sideways. 2nd, I don't think those auto hubs would have been locked in for your spin test. You'd have been best off to pull the cover since you were in a wrecking yard, and new oil is best anyway. But at any rate, IMO, that's to damn much, especially if you're doing the work. You know for $250 you can damn near convert your current 10 bolt and then it's got NEW gears. So what is wrong your 10 bolt now? Other than needing 4.10 gears and converted to 8 lug?

 

[HotRodPC]

It's my understanding, they detect torque from the axles then grab, so if your not spinning axles at the yoke, then they don't grab. And I could be wrong too, but I'm going to guess that axle was probably OK. Nonetheless everything happens for a reason. I think I'd punt. Isn't North Dakota a rusty state too? That means Squares are rusting away and someone soon should be parting one out.

 

[HotRodPC]

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I never heard of that except on Dodges, and that was an axle shaft connector thing I think.....

Just about everything on a Dodge works on VACUUM, cuz they SUCK !!!

 

[bucket]

It's my understanding, they detect torque from the axles then grab, so if your not spinning axles at the yoke, then they don't grab. And I could be wrong too, but I'm going to guess that axle was probably OK. Nonetheless everything happens for a reason. I think I'd punt. Isn't North Dakota a rusty state too? That means Squares are rusting away and someone soon should be parting one out.

You are absolutely correct about the auto hubs

 

[Kapdin]

Humm, well i guess i never spun the yoke just kept spinning the wheel back and forth then just gave up and looked to see if it was a three speed or four. but yea i can see him telling me that that will be 300 cus he has to torch it off... and no manual hubs. And as for north dakota we have wind up the ass and hot and dry and cold and miserable but we don't use salt if thats wat u mean.
And HRPC my 10 bolt is looking better to me every day, (im just so impaciant and have a perfect 14bff fixed up and painted and rolling around on new chevy rims and 265/75-16 tires and a running square!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 ) So yea thats why i was showing you guys those gears cus the ones on ebay are $116 shipped, then depends on the rotor/hubs, cus i can get new ones from oreilys (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...2_1051793_-1&keyword=rotor&pt=C0062&ppt=C0009) $320 And then i should put new u-joints in and prolli ball joints so prolli $80 from rockauto and im still using auto hubs. But then id be done with it.

 

[HotRodPC]

I just hate to see you spend $300 on something that will still need another forturne spent on it to convert to 8 lug, convert to manual hubs, regear it if you thought the gears were broke, when if doing all that, you can just gear swap and convert to 8 lug what you have and save $400 on the $300 core axle and $100 for manual hubs.

And I worry about the $99 gears on eBay. 10 bolts need all they help they can get, and notice those $99 gears don't have a brand name? That tells me, probably China JUNK. I'd at least go with a brand name gear whether it be Richmond, USA Gear or Motive Gear. Jus my thinking and guess. Might ask around and see if anyone else has bought those cheap gears and how they are working out.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Have you ever set up axle gears before? If not don't forget the additional expense of a setup kit, usually around $100, and the special tools you'll need like a dial indicator, caliper micrometer, inch-pound torque wrench, press, bearing spreader, at least 450 ft/lb impact, etc. If you don't have the tools to do it you may have to outsource the work and that in itself can add ~$300. Just something to consider.

 

[Kapdin]

.... damn. I mite have a lead on a 1/2 ton saburban with 4.10's so maybe just hub change. But yea dis blows.

 

[Kapdin]

Alright fellers i gots an update for ya! I felt like spending my lunch break in the junk yard again. and at first glance i see he must have got a few new trucks in over the weekend. first one i stumbled apon is this kewl truck.

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then, something catches my eye!

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Not a LICK OF RUST! silverado clean interior 3/4 TON ........... 2WD

THEN!

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BINGO! Dana44 3/4ton 4.10 gears The truck was missing a motor and interior. It was a silverado still th350 and np203 in it with 14bolt rear and big 285/75-16's but pretty bald so I threw him an offer of hauling it away for $500 and he said hell no.... he said he would think for 1k. So screw that, So i bought the whole front axle/springs/steering arm/tie rod/mirrors and leaf springs all around cus they were like brand new and looked lifted. I spent total $350 so not to bad. but it rly made me sick too!

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[HotRodPC]

Keep in mind, you're going to have to move your rear spring hangers back to the last set of holes for those 3/4 ton springs to work. Not so sure they are lift springs, but nonetheless, they should be a little lift from your 1/2 ton springs and a firmer ride and a bit more payload. So you have an NP203 Tcase in your truck now right? Then those hubs on that front axle should work just fine. Did you think to talk him outta the rear driveshaft? If that truck has the Th350/NP203 like your truck has, then that driveshaft should bolt right into your truck once you get the 14b FF bolted in. Your current front driveshaft should fit this axle new Dana 44 too. You should have a good set up once you get all this bolted in.

 

[Kapdin]

Yes sir, both have th350 with np203 and i have one warran locking hub at home off that other dana so just need to find one more. U know i forgot ithat they might be the 56" humm never messured, o well they were still new had the stickers and shipping lables still stuck to them lol.

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Now just to go through it clean it and paint it to match this one.

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[HotRodPC]

Don't worry about the 56inch. I'd just about wish they were. Not only does that mean stronger, it also means better ride cuz the stiffness and strenght is spread out of a 4 inches longer spring. Now the K20 could be either, where if they were C20 they for sure are 56. Again, it just means drilling out the hanger bracket rivets, then using grade 8 bolts to bolt them back to the frame using the other holes along with lock tight and get them bastards as tight as poissble with lock weshers.
Being you have the NP203 too, I woudln't worry about the manual locking hubs. Just run you got on there now. Unless you're going to install the part time kit or convert to NP205, there is really no advantage to the manual hubs with an NP203 or you run 4H Loc or H4 Loc at all times and that's really not advisable on pavement so leave well enough alone.
If those are inded lift springs, doesn't seem it would be much, but still even 2 inches is higher than OEM. There is no negative arch to those front springs at all which if OEM, they'd be negative arched so they might be a lift spring.

 

[Kapdin]

Hey HR, or anyone else, i have read that its "Ill-advised" to run an np203 with unlocked hubs. Is that just wear and tear like worse than putting it in hi-loc all the time? Or even if i put locker & LS (front)?