Paint manufacturer recommendations for the DIY

[coolpup32]

Hey all,
I'm in the stages of priming my old '76 k10. Most of the body will be heavily scuffed/sanded and high-build primer'd. hood and replacement panels will be etch primed + high-build primed due to exposed bare metal. from what i've read, this is best practice. I've purchased a gallon of high-build primer from my local oreilly's (the lesser expensive acme brand i think)

My question is, does anyone have a recommendation on basecoat / clearcoat manufacturers and/or online resellers? I've looked at tcpglobal, and heard mixed reviews....

I have a pretty good idea on the two-tone paint colors/codes i'm looking for and the guys at oreilly's are helpful but seem a bit high. At their rates, it's going to cost me around $930 in the 2 paints + sealers

I'm also looking for a quart of etch primer if you have recommendations.

Thanks all!!!

 

[Finkaire]

A lot of shops use a PPG 2 stage, a lot of custom shops use Sikkens or Glasurit, SEM for trim.

 

[coolpup32]

we used to have a PPG shop nearby but not any longer. I'll look into sikkens.

I'm really hoping for an online reseller if possible

 

[dhenderz]

If you are ok with selecting from a very limited number of pre-mixed colors (think - red, black, yellow, white, orange), then you can't go wrong with Southern Polyurethanes. I have used their black. It is by far the deepest, most black I have ever seen or laid down. I always use their epoxy primer and clear coat, regardless of basecoat brand. Can't beat the price to performance ratio. And their tech support is second to none.

Automotive Refinishing | United States | Southern Polyurethanes

Southern Polyurethanes is a manufacturer of automotive coatings for the restoration, repair and custom markets. Epoxy Primers, Clear coats, Primers, Basecoat, single stage and more.

www.southernpolyurethanes.com

 

[Grit dog]

we used to have a PPG shop nearby but not any longer. I'll look into sikkens.

I'm really hoping for an online reseller if possible

You’re a bit confused if you’re comparing PPG and sikkens to whatever stuff Oreillys offers.
First, return the cheap primer. Last thing you want to do is cheap out on the primer. Bonding issues, solids content, type of solids. Any cheap build primer will have a lot of clay in it and shrink like a ****. See every sand scratch in it. 2 months later! Lol.
Assume you want decent quality at least if going 2 stage paint.
$1000 all in isn’t going to get you there either. Big name quality 2 stage, you’ll be 2-3x that much money.

But online, quality and excellent price for the quality, look up Tamco paint.
Best bang for the buck for anything other than a Rustoleum rebuild.
They’ll mix any color you want too.

 

[fast 99]

It's a good idea to use the same brand product from primer to clear.

The previous poster it right. Paint cost will take your breath away.

 

[hoagster]

Tamco is who I would use also. I haven't had any problems other than being a rookie painter using their products. Awesome customer service and if you have a gm paint code they will mix it for you.

 

[coolpup32]

You’re a bit confused if you’re comparing PPG and sikkens to whatever stuff Oreillys offers.

oh, no i wasn't comparing the two. I was only noting that in the past i had more options locally. I'll look into returning the acme (Finish1 from Sherwin Williams)

 

[coolpup32]

I just went to Tamco's website and realized i've looked into them heavily months ago but had not heard any honest reviews.

Thanks everyone

 

[Grit dog]

Ok. Makes sense. I’m not a painter or body guy. Just a shadetree on both accounts.
I’ve honestly never had trouble with ANY quality paint system. Now my prep and technique….that could make anything look bad! Lol

I just used up some almost 20 year old Sherwin Williams clear coat on my other truck. Over PPG basecoat, lol, over Tamco primer…
It works.
Still using some 25 year old PPG base and single stage on stuff.
Tamco was convenient and less than half the price of the top line stuff.
Still cannot speak to long term UV resistance but their materials are as good as any others. Just without the big price tag.
Blue truck is Tamco top to bottom.

 

[CalSgt]

I've been impressed with the Summit Racing branded paints, I've only been using epoxy primer, high build, and single stage so far but seems to do a great job for the cost. I went to the paint store for my base and clear mainly so I could get a specific paint code.

Summit has several shades available in every color but no specific paint code matching.

I've heard rumor's that the Summit paint is re-branded Sherwin William's

I prefer the epoxy primers over etch primers also, it just seems to stick to anything and everything.

 

[andybflo]

So; let me ask you a few questions...

1) What colors? Solids? Metallics? etc?
2) Will the truck sit outside? Will it be a trailer queen? Off-roaded and scratched/etc/need touch ups?
3) Will it ever need to defend against salt? (I see you're in MS, don't know if you or it venture north.)

I'd avoid base clear for most paintjobs in the south. UV is tough on anything less than a super-high-solids clear, and they're tough to shoot. You see people around you with peeling/delaminating clear? Most of those are factory finishes, which spray a lot better and get baked on. You can't do that.

Underneath, Transtar 2K is an inexpensive, relatively easy to work with tintable epoxy primer.

If it's a solid color, I've shot BASF Norbin on less expensive work, R-M if you want base/clear, and Glasurit if it's a high-end job. Glasurit especially if you want that "depth" that hits you in the face for darker colors. As a rookie, I'd recommned you shoot single stage. You can buff it harder to get rid of the orange peel/dust/imperfections you'd probably get in the finish. It's got more depth in colors, and it's super easy to fix for when you nick/scratch it. My '86 C10 was factory base/clear, when my business partner re-shot it (I make things run, he makes them pretty), it's Glasurit single stage. I use it like a truck. We've re-touched a door (scratched in a parking lot) and the tailgate (use, hauling whatever), and you can't tell on a 6yo paint job. She's not a show car, but has been shown locally (and dragged home a few small awards), it's my truck, and it's treated like that, but can't look bad as it's also a calling card.

Epoxy underneath, single-stage on top would be my vote. I'd also try to make friends with a local paint shop. They can help tons for new painters, from guns to filters, to tips on mitigating humidity, heat, dust, all of it. If you have a knowledgable local shop, they can even custom tint/flake whatever you need. Don't ignore their advice.

 

[Grit dog]

^The questions you asked are exactly what the OP needs to determine.
And I agree with only high solids clear for best longevity under extreme UV exposure.
That said, if in the extreme UV exposure scenario I’d 100% want 2 stage vs single stage for less maintenance (no single stage will hold up to UV as long as a good clear without maintenance, cut and polish) and ultimately longer lifespan.
But a good garage job single stage will also last a long time, put it on thick and you can cut and buff it many times.

And of course, if it’s a garage queen, paint it with whatever you want. Rattle can rebuild will last 40 years sitting in the shop.

 

[coolpup32]

So; let me ask you a few questions...

1) What colors? Solids? Metallics? etc?
2) Will the truck sit outside? Will it be a trailer queen? Off-roaded and scratched/etc/need touch ups?
3) Will it ever need to defend against salt? (I see you're in MS, don't know if you or it venture north.)

1) I'm trying to stay close to the original colors.
- a silver metallic
- rosedale red

2) I'm aiming for a daily-driver quality. not a show truck by far, but something i can take hunting and maybe the local car show once-per-year.

3) No salt and would spend most of its life under a carport w/ open sides.

Grit is correct, i'm really looking for recommendations. For the past year, i was planning on a single-stage but after speaking with several local people / shops, i'm starting to lean toward base / clear. Additionally, this project is preparing me for bodywork i plan to do when i retire, a 1955 Chevy Coupe, i've had for years. It will be base/clear, this alone may be the deciding factor in my case but i'm still undecided

 

[Terry Wilkerson]

I used Nason auto paint. I am happy with the paint. I paid around 900 for the base, clear, hardner and reducer. This didn't count the high fill primer sand paper etc. I got at least 1700 or more in paint. I lost track truly on the cost. If it's your first paint job be aware that spraying metalics or anything with pearl is difficult.