Opinions on this spark plug issue please...

[Jims86]

Just the low grade crap they sell around here, it's 87. There is the chance the timing is set at 8 (it's been like 7 years), but I'm pretty sure I set it at 10*.

Thats cool if it works and you dont have a smog guy checking your timing.
I am just thinking that it would be best for him to get it running at factory spec, and keep his check engine light from coming on, instead of unplugging it......give him a nice canvas to start with, just incase he wants to tinker with performance later.

 

[89Suburban]

Can you believe it's been a year already that I put these heads on? Another Memorial weekend under the hood of this heap, lol!!!!

 

[Jims86]

Can you believe it's been a year already that I put these heads on? Another Memorial weekend under the hood of this heap, lol!!!!

shouldnt take the whole weekend....your a pro now!

 

[89Suburban]

shouldnt take the whole weekend....your a pro now!

I'm itching to get into there after talking to ya. Most likely Sunday I will start on it. I got to work tomorrow and the kids and I are hitting the river after that.

I have another light that comes on and off, but it is under the dash somewhere and shines on the floor, idk what the hell that is all about...

It isn't the engine light, I pulled the bulb out of that. It's something else under there somewhere.

 

[Old77]

Man, sorry to hear about more issues, man sounds like Jim has got ya going in a good direction, though

 

[89Suburban]

Man, sorry to hear about more issues, man sounds like Jim has got ya going in a good direction, though

It's ok bro, no big deal issues, just some finishing touches.

 

[HotRodPC]

Is there anyway to just break off that timing tab and get a bolt on one? Remmeber the bolt on one won't have the tube for the timing probe, but who the hell uses a timing probe anyway? Those were designed for techs to be able to hook your vehicle up to a scope that also reads the timing too. I just use a timing light with an advance dial on it and be done. Just be sure you get the correct timing tab that bolts on if you do that. I think what I'd do, is buy both tabs. Then hold them up to your current tab and match up which comes the closest and assume that is the one you'll need, then take the other back to where you bought if for a refund.

So know you realize you don't have a 1 step cooler plug. If he actually did give a step cooler plug, I'd say he's an idiot. A bit cooler plug is for high performance. You're not in a hot rod. You're in a high mileage heavy ass burb and often tow a boat. Being it's high mileage, IF I WAS having a problem fouling plugs, I'd go with a step hotter just to burn off the oil that I was burning. JMO

 

[crazy4offroad]

I'm not sure if he can use a bolt-on tab, I think the stock one is nearly at 12 o-clock position. If he did he may have to swap the balancer too or cut a new TDC line on the old one since the bolt-on's are closer to the 2 o-clock position.

 

[89Suburban]

Is there anyway to just break off that timing tab and get a bolt on one? Remmeber the bolt on one won't have the tube for the timing probe, but who the hell uses a timing probe anyway? Those were designed for techs to be able to hook your vehicle up to a scope that also reads the timing too. I just use a timing light with an advance dial on it and be done. Just be sure you get the correct timing tab that bolts on if you do that. I think what I'd do, is buy both tabs. Then hold them up to your current tab and match up which comes the closest and assume that is the one you'll need, then take the other back to where you bought if for a refund.

So know you realize you don't have a 1 step cooler plug. If he actually did give a step cooler plug, I'd say he's an idiot. A bit cooler plug is for high performance. You're not in a hot rod. You're in a high mileage heavy ass burb and often tow a boat. Being it's high mileage, IF I WAS having a problem fouling plugs, I'd go with a step hotter just to burn off the oil that I was burning. JMO

I don't know squat about the bolt on timing tabs. And I don't want to break this on off, it might make a hole or crack where the spot welds are.

So it is your opinion that is oil clogging the plugs up?

 

[HotRodPC]

I don't know squat about the bolt on timing tabs. And I don't want to break this on off, it might make a hole or crack where the spot welds are.

So it is your opinion that is oil clogging the plugs up?

Nope, not saying that at all. Actually they look pretty good. I was just referring to suggesting cooler plugs on an older high mileage motor. I would never do that. Carbon fouling if that's what you're getting is usally cauaed by a rich mixture, then on the other hand, you could also get so leaned out, you get a lean misfire. With that though, you'd have some very dry brownish tips as if they'd gotten a bit overheated, so I'd tend to lean a bit more towards the rich side. Your issue seems to be just that one cylinder though cuz the rest look good. So maybe it's that the plug wire to that cylinder has a break in the carbon core and the spark is not as strong on the cylinder, or maybe heavy corrosion on that one lead in the dizzy cap. Being it's just one cylinder, by reading the rest of the plugs, it appears all is well enough, so I'd concetrate on the one cylinder. Could even be a not so perfect plug. Maybe change the plug and plug wire to that one cylinder and see how it does. Might even swap plug wires with a different cylinder if length permits, and then see the results. If the problem moves to the other cylinder, you found your problem. If the problem doesn't move and fouls again, you know its NOT the plug wire.

 

[89Suburban]

Nope, not saying that at all. Actually they look pretty good. I was just referring to suggesting cooler plugs on an older high mileage motor. I would never do that. Carbon fouling if that's what you're getting is usally cauaed by a rich mixture, then on the other hand, you could also get so leaned out, you get a lean misfire. With that though, you'd have some very dry brownish tips as if they'd gotten a bit overheated, so I'd tend to lean a bit more towards the rich side. Your issue seems to be just that one cylinder though cuz the rest look good. So maybe it's that the plug wire to that cylinder has a break in the carbon core and the spark is not as strong on the cylinder, or maybe heavy corrosion on that one lead in the dizzy cap. Being it's just one cylinder, by reading the rest of the plugs, it appears all is well enough, so I'd concetrate on the one cylinder. Could even be a not so perfect plug. Maybe change the plug and plug wire to that one cylinder and see how it does. Might even swap plug wires with a different cylinder if length permits, and then see the results. If the problem moves to the other cylinder, you found your problem. If the problem doesn't move and fouls again, you know its NOT the plug wire.

Hmmm. You have seen my past issues with the carbon **** on the dizzy cap too, even the brass ones. I don;t know why it is doing that. The vent on the base of the dizzy is fine, I got no leaks or fumes blowing up from the dist shaft. It's a mystery. I got to clean those tabs every six months or replace the cap every 6 months. I don;t know if it's my around town short trip **** or what.

But my priority this weekend is to get that timing tabs straight and nail the timing down and go from there. I will be working on that tomorrow.

 

[Jims86]

Is there anyway to just break off that timing tab and get a bolt on one? Remmeber the bolt on one won't have the tube for the timing probe, but who the hell uses a timing probe anyway? Those were designed for techs to be able to hook your vehicle up to a scope that also reads the timing too. I just use a timing light with an advance dial on it and be done. Just be sure you get the correct timing tab that bolts on if you do that. I think what I'd do, is buy both tabs. Then hold them up to your current tab and match up which comes the closest and assume that is the one you'll need, then take the other back to where you bought if for a refund.

So know you realize you don't have a 1 step cooler plug. If he actually did give a step cooler plug, I'd say he's an idiot. A bit cooler plug is for high performance. You're not in a hot rod. You're in a high mileage heavy ass burb and often tow a boat. Being it's high mileage, IF I WAS having a problem fouling plugs, I'd go with a step hotter just to burn off the oil that I was burning. JMO

He can get a bolt on, but need to be sure its for an 8" balancer. I would carefully grind off the old one. But lets see if he can fix this one first. They are around $10 from Jegs, then shipping. Lets see if he can fix it, without opening his wallet...well, maybe for a couple of water pump gaskets, unless they come off intact, then he can shlop a little shlop on them, and re use them.

 

[HotRodPC]

I thing I've been know to do, and I do this cuz I use an advance dial timing light. All you need to know is where is TDC marked at. Once you know that and mark it somewhere on your timing cover, then you don't even need a timing tab. Before I put heads on, I'd mark my cover, tab, whatever was there, at TDC with an engraver. I have seen several timing tabs that are wrong as hell. So all that matters it where TDC is. I've also been known to find TDC with the heads and junk on by pulling #1 plugging and feeling it with a straw or stick of wood. He can still work this ave, it will payoff in the end, but I'm doubtful timing is his issue at all in this case. Worse case scenario, I'd advance it hair to far and let the ECM and computer take care of retarding it when needed. But, timing isn't going to affect 1 plug. He has an isolated problem IMO.

 

[Jims86]

I havent had to do it in quite a while, but i have been known to get the piston to tdc with my pinky blown out of the spark plug hole, then take one of the valve springs off, sqwirt some oil through tha spark plug hole to oil the top of the piston, and let the valve sit on top of the piston, and put a dial indecator in the end of the valve. Move the crank no more than 2 degrees either way, that way you can get a more acurrate reading of TDC, without a shitload of work....but keep in mind, the valve are at a wee bit of an angle.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yep, that works too, but then many people can't get the valve spring back on, so I don't suggest that but it does work. I only use the finger over the hole to find the compression stroke when dead sticking timing the dizzy to get it running. Or if the valve cover is off, you don't even need to do that. You know which stroke its on by looking at the valves. If both are closed and piston is up, there is your compression stroke.