Oil Pressure Drops After High RPM

[Matt69olds]

Cut the oil filter open. If it’s clean of metallic debris, put a mechanical gauge on it to verify the oil pressure. If it’s still low, use 10W30 or 10W40. Shell Rotella 15w40 will definitely raise the idle pressure.

Having said that, thicker oil is a band aid. Something is worn to cause the lower oil pressure, the knocking sound confirms that. It might run like this a long time, it might get worse as time goes.

 

[JamesSam]

Can’t tell from the pic- is that residual on the dipstick and it might actually be dry?

If I’m wrong and it’s where it should be, this is what I would do if it were my truck.

If I were fairly certain that it wasn’t a knock (you’d mentioned you’d heard something) I’d hook up an actual gauge to check apples to apples for accuracy before going to a thicker oil.

If you’re worried about a knock, I’d pull the pan and make sure the oil pick up fit tightly or wasn’t clogged.

A wise man here once said that these are just indicators and having an actual mechanical gauge to verify is critical. If the gauge checks out, and your oil level isn’t low, the oiling system is dead simple. You have a pump with a pickup, a filter with a bypass mechanism in the block, oil passages and bearing clearance. That’s just about it. Well, then you have the oil pump pick up that can fall off or not fit tightly. But you get my point.

What does your spidey-sense tell you?

Thanks @ChuckN Chuck! I wish I could pick you up and take you for a ride so you could see and hear it all in person with me. My spidey-sense tells me something is off but I am not as inclined as you all with my engine knowledge. I am looking in to aftermarket OP gauges and got some 10 W30.

 

[JamesSam]

I have been running 5 W30 ever since I got the truck only because that is what the PO had been using. I believe I will be switching it up to thicker oil after your suggestions and my research. Thanks GMSB crew.

 

[WFarm]

Just for comparison, my oil pressure is at 60 PSI immediately after starting cold. On the highway after the engine is at normal operating temp it settles in the mid 50 PSI. When I stop at a stoplight when hot oil pressure drops to around 30 PSI.

This is a Mk IV 454 running Amsoil Z-Rod 10W-30 full synthetic oil.

 

[ChuckN]

I have been running 5 W30 ever since I got the truck only because that is what the PO had been using. I believe I will be switching it up to thicker oil after your suggestions and my research. Thanks GMSB crew.

Yeah, I get that but time for something thicker and with a high zinc content for your cam and lifters. I’ll post a picture below of a chart, but basic rule of thumb is higher than 1200 ppm
desired. Matt69olds and Ricko1966 gave you some good info and advice, I would definitely follow that.

Here is a link to the chart put out by speedway motors: https://static.speedwaymotors.com/i...3*MTczMjc5ODY0Ni4xLjAuMTczMjc5ODY3MS4zNS4wLjA.

And a lower def picture:

You must be registered for see images attach

Unless you’re in a very cold climate, I’d run at least 10w40, skip the 10w30. Back when I had my dad’s old 3100 with a ‘62 327, I’d just get a jug of Napa 10w40 (just rebranded Valvoline) and put some Lucas zinc additive. It never gave me any problems and it was a cheap and safe solution.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[WFarm]

Great chart! The Speedway Motors website also discusses the Amsoil products but don’t see them on the chart. The Z-Rod line is specifically designed for older flat tappet engines:

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[ChuckN]

Great chart! The Speedway Motors website also discusses the Amsoil products but don’t see them on the chart. The Z-Rod line is specifically designed for older flat tappet engines:

You must be registered for see images attach

Yes! That stuff looks good. I’ve never seen it locally but have wanted to run it. The local shops have started carrying VR1 synthetic so I’ve started running that- I just need to plan ahead better.