Oil pans, pumps, etc

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Ol_Red_1983

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2024
Posts
12
Reaction score
39
Location
Drummond Wisconsin
First Name
Jim
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
1983 K20 350/4 speed 4x4 aprox 4" lift
Oil pressure-60 psi cold, 600-750 idle rpm warm 20ish psi. Pretty much stock 350, headers, exhaust, holley street average carb electric choke vac secondary, hei with basic upgrades.

Looking to make some upgrades while fixing some little leaks. Pan, gasket, pump, rear main seal, etc. Currently just a stock pan and presumably pump/pick-up.

PAN- looking to upgrade from stock. More capacity, kickouts, maybe crank scraper or windage tray. Milodon, Moroso, Hamburg, etc. What does anyone run other than stock?

PUMP- Obviously Melling is good but not opposed to a higher quality (Moroso example). High volume/pressure, one or the other, stock, etc. What's the recommended?

Pan gasket and rear main will be Felpro, maybe arp for hardware just because, and basic high temp rtv where needed. Tried seeing if these have been asked before didn't see anything. Hope I don't make the stupid questions thread.
 

1lejohn

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2012
Posts
325
Reaction score
749
Location
texas
First Name
john
Truck Year
1985 , 2004
Truck Model
k-1500, 2500 HD
Engine Size
350, 6.7
Is the engine new? I would run a stock oil pump on an older stock motor. You usually run a high-pressure pump on a high rpm engine. Most builders run a high-volume oil pump on a built motor with bearing clearances on the high side. If your motor is worn out and the bearing clearances are high you might just run a heavy oil like 15-40, or 20-50. In my past experiences with built small blocks. I ran a Moroso pan with a windage tray and a crank scrapper for added oil volume and windage control. Most of the stuff you are talking of adding is not really needed in a truck motor that will barely see 5000 RPM.

I could see adding a deeper pan if you plan on 4 wheeling the truck hard. You can also enlarge and chamfer the oil drain back holes on the rear of the block valley. You do this for better oil drain back to the pan. If you want to get real fancy you can port and polish the rear main cap where the oil pump attaches to the block. To cut down on windage you can drill and tap the drain back holes in the valley and screw in pipe nipples this keeps the oil from dropping down on the rotating assembly.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,185
Posts
951,079
Members
36,309
Latest member
k-5Ed
Top