Oil, Filters, and Changes

[mistaake]

Just did the first oil + filter change on my 83 C20 with 350 V8.

I used Pennzoil conventional 10W-40 and a Microgard filter (seemed very well constructed with metal inside). I'm trying to come up with an oil change schedule. I'm thinking 3000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. I'm aiming to make the ole truck my daily driver in which case it would hit the mileage first, but if plans change and it's a secondary vehicle, I would feel better changing it every 6 months even if it's not driven that much.

I'm curious what oil type, oil filters, and oil change intervals members here use on their squares

 

[Skweegle89]

You just opened a can of worms man.

I have been using Shell Rotella Triple T 15-40 and a quart of Comp cams additive in this new motor, but only Wix filters. Heard too many horror stories about collapsed MG filters. I guess they were mostly on dirt track cars, but I will spend a little extra for the wix because my oil is free.


Sent from an old rotary telephone.

 

[firebane]

I only run Wix filters and I use special oil that is made where I live called CAM Oil. Its 15w40 oil with ZDDP additives added for older engines.

 

[skysurfer]

Microgard is a brand name for O'Reilly that's been made by a few different manufacturers over the years. From what I can find online, they've been connected with Fram, Champ Labs, and within the last couple of years, Wix. The current application for our trucks under the Microgard name is a Wix number preceded with MGL. I'm willing to bet the current Microgards are a quality filter, but if a Wix is sitting next to it on the shelf that's what I would pick. Another top shelf brand that's as good as you can get is Baldwin. They're harder to find (normally at big rig supply stores) but worth the extra effort to get them.

And to stir the can of worms, if you have anything made by Fram on your truck you need to stop drinking the Kool-Aid and do some research.

 

[mistaake]

Nah, no "orange can of death" will ever touch my truck.

Is ZDDP additive important on these older engines, and which one and how much should be used?

 

[firebane]

Nah, no "orange can of death" will ever touch my truck.

Is ZDDP additive important on these older engines, and which one and how much should be used?

It is.. but if you haven't been running it don't worry. If you ever do a rebuild then I suggest it.

 

[skysurfer]

Is ZDDP additive important on these older engines, and which one and how much should be used?

Your '83 is flat tappet and can benefit from ZDDP. The '96 & '98 are roller cams and don't need it.

 

[mistaake]

Your '83 is flat tappet and can benefit from ZDDP. The '96 & '98 are roller cams and don't need it.

Yep, that's what I figured. Is there any particular ZDDP additive you recommend? I found this product on Amazon - do you think it's good? I'm assuming I'm supposed to add a little bit to every oil change?

http://www.amazon.com/Rislone-4405-...&qid=1428185327&sr=8-4&keywords=Zddp+additive

Also, will it be compatible with all new conventional motor oil? This time around I used Pennzoil which has "cleaning agents" (not that I care about that, but I got a good price on that oil) but I'll probably be using something else next time - just whatever I can get cheap at the time lol. But, my concern is that the ZDDP additive will conflict with the additives and other stuff in the oil?

Thanks,
Michael

 

[skysurfer]

I have to admit I don't use any ZDDP additives. The reasons being my truck had 130K miles on it when I bought it and figured if the cam lobes were going to be wiped out it would have already happened. I also use Rotella oil which is supposed to prevent premature wear. Finally, if I'm wrong and the engine goes to **** I have a long block sitting in the garage ready to go.

 

[mistaake]

I have to admit I don't use any ZDDP additives. The reasons being my truck had 130K miles on it when I bought it and figured if the cam lobes were going to be wiped out it would have already happened. I also use Rotella oil which is supposed to prevent premature wear. Finally, if I'm wrong and the engine goes to **** I have a long block sitting in the garage ready to go.

Well, unlike you I don't have the equipment, time, expertise, or money to replace the entire engine

But seriously, is that diesel oil stuff okay for gasoline trucks? Isn't it too thick? Like 15W-40 or something?

 

[firebane]

Well, unlike you I don't have the equipment, time, expertise, or money to replace the entire engine

But seriously, is that diesel oil stuff okay for gasoline trucks? Isn't it too thick? Like 15W-40 or something?

15w40 is perfectly fine to run especially on older or higher mileage engines.

 

[mistaake]

15w40 is perfectly fine to run especially on older or higher mileage engines.

Alright, might go that way next route depending on the price. Will 3K miles without the additive destroy my engine? Or is this stuff all so overblown

 

[firebane]

Alright, might go that way next route depending on the price. Will 3K miles without the additive destroy my engine? Or is this stuff all so overblown

Your engine won't get destroyed its just critical components weren't properly broke in thats all. Once a rebuild is done with say a new cam the engine needs a proper break in.. ZDDP is one of those things that is critical in a proper cam or engine rebuild so the motor doesn't degrade.

The biggest thing about not using zddp in a new motor is you can wipe a lobe on a cam and well that gets expensive.

 

[mistaake]

Your engine won't get destroyed its just critical components weren't properly broke in thats all. Once a rebuild is done with say a new cam the engine needs a proper break in.. ZDDP is one of those things that is critical in a proper cam or engine rebuild so the motor doesn't degrade.

The biggest thing about not using zddp in a new motor is you can wipe a lobe on a cam and well that gets expensive.

Ah, OK. That makes a lot of sense. It's amazing how much of a big deal some people online make about this!

 

[firebane]

Ah, OK. That makes a lot of sense. It's amazing how much of a big deal some people online make about this!

Well to be honest when you think about the cost of a cam and lifters wiping out a cam can be a very expensive lesson learned. Also think about all the time required to redo a cam and lifters and the costs involved as well.

When I rebuilt the top end of my motor and put a new cam, lifters and push rods into the thing there was simply no way that I was going to not run zddp to ensure that this motor would either last or the bottom end would fail before the top.

$80 (2 oil changes) in oil and $10 (2 oil filters) in filters is pocket change to the $200+ for a new cam and hardware and time to re-install.

So in the end while people maybe like OMG the world is ending when I've put a ton of time and money into a project I'm not going to cut corners and not run zddp.

Case in point I had to replace wheel studs on the front of my truck so instead of just doing that I have now done studs, bearings, drag link ends and will be doing the same on the passenger side. When I am done the front of the truck is going to be solid and last a long time. And if I plan to put any money into the front end of my truck again it'll be a lift and high steer.