No clutch on mechanical linkage

[whiskeydents]

Here is the story…

Mechanical clutch linkage, clutch has been fine since the swap (3-5) months. When I got it together I was adjusting the clutch but if I adjusted to close to the floor the pedal wouldn’t want to come back up. The quick fix was to place a small block of a 2x4 behind the carpet where the clutch pedal would hit creating a stop. I adjusted the clutch linkage to that point and have been driving it like that for the past few months.

This afternoon I was checking out the headlight dimmer switch wiring and removed the block. Jumped in to move it and pushed the clutch in, heard a pop and now there is no clutch unless I adjust the throw out tight to the pressure plate and even then it’s all the way at the floor. And if I push too hard it’ll lock to the floor and I have to pull it back up

I checked all the pivot points and everything looks fine, I had reamed the pivot points out to except bushings. Nothing looks bent.

Is it possible I over extended the pressure plate fingers?

-Morgan

 

[whiskeydents]

Well found what may have been the problem, not exactly sure why is decided to show itself at this point but anyways…

I noticed today when I had a buddy jump in and push on the clutch that the “push/adjuster rod” already started at a steep angle to the clutch fork. This angle stayed and or got worse as the clutch was pressed. This would make the clutch fork twist slightly.

I decided that even if this wasn’t the problem, that I should fix it anyways. Pulled the Z bar and cut a piece of 3/8 plate to extend the arm that the adjuster rod attaches to. Drilled a hole a little over an inch past the stock location. Reinstalled the z bar, and adjusted the clutch. The adjuster rod now sits level and pushes straight back on the clutch fork.

The pedal feel is now smoother and has less resistance.

You must be registered for see images attach

The picture may not look like it’s level but it is, you can also see where the springs are attached, that’s the original location for the adjuster rod.

Clutch works great now.

Morgan

 

[WebMonkey]

sweet!
glad you got that sorted.

mine's hydraulic so i couldn't offer any help

 

[whiskeydents]

sweet!
glad you got that sorted.

mine's hydraulic so i couldn't offer any help

I should have gone hydraulic when I did the sm465 swap but oh well.

 

[rusted nuts]

Well found what may have been the problem, not exactly sure why is decided to show itself at this point but anyways…

I noticed today when I had a buddy jump in and push on the clutch that the “push/adjuster rod” already started at a steep angle to the clutch fork. This angle stayed and or got worse as the clutch was pressed. This would make the clutch fork twist slightly.

I decided that even if this wasn’t the problem, that I should fix it anyways. Pulled the Z bar and cut a piece of 3/8 plate to extend the arm that the adjuster rod attaches to. Drilled a hole a little over an inch past the stock location. Reinstalled the z bar, and adjusted the clutch. The adjuster rod now sits level and pushes straight back on the clutch fork.

The pedal feel is now smoother and has less resistance.

You must be registered for see images attach

The picture may not look like it’s level but it is, you can also see where the springs are attached, that’s the original location for the adjuster rod.

Clutch works great now.

Morgan

Thinking i would of just made the org. Adj rod longer, But what do I know. lol. Glad You got it fixed.

 

[SquareRoot]

Thinking i would of just made the org. Adj rod longer, But what do I know. lol. Glad You got it fixed.

@rusted nuts Not to hijack this thread but tell me more about the 4cly diesel in your signature block.

 

[squaredeal91]

4BT?^^

 

[rusted nuts]

4BT?^^

Nope Isuzu