New K30 CUCV member

[GeeDub]

Welcome from Georgia. Good looking truck.

 

[peats]

If that were my truck I would put a sb400 in it just for the added torque. I don't think 350 is enough engine for that platform,IMHO.

 

[Dooley]

Great truck to work with.
First though know the truck's model is a D30, not a K.
Second, beware of all the 24V that is included in the fuseblock when wiring things up.
I ran 255/85-16 BFG Muds on mine on stock wheels and no lift.
Never any tire interference.

 

[Corvette Ed]

Welcome aboard from East Tennessee.

 

[Buck69]

If that were my truck I would put a sb400 in it just for the added torque. I don't think 350 is enough engine for that platform,IMHO.

Thanks Peats. I haven't actually decided on an engine yet. I have a 5.7 marine build I did last spring sitting on a stand at the shop as a spare for my boat. It is a .020 over roller cam with votec heads and a dual plane manifold. Although it has the marine cam, it is rated at 300hp with the Thunderbolt (Mercruiser) ignition system with knock control. It will just be a temporary install to get it registered in Canada and do the break in. It should give me an idea if the 5.7 will be enough for my purpose with this truck.
I do have another 880 roller cam block with vortec heads I am hoping to use for my final build. I may look to stroke it if I feel it needs more torque. Hoping that won't be the case with these gears. There is also other cam/piston options I can go with that aren't available in the marine world.
The thing I really like about the 5.7's is their reliability and that there is a pretty good chance most scrap yards will still have a few lying around.

 

[Buck69]

Great truck to work with.
First though know the truck's model is a D30, not a K.
Second, beware of all the 24V that is included in the fuseblock when wiring things up.
I ran 255/85-16 BFG Muds on mine on stock wheels and no lift.
Never any tire interference.

Thanks. Am really looking forward to working with it. Good to know it is actually a D30. Lol. That's the first I had heard of that model designation. Does it represent diesel or possibly the CUCV thing?

 

[Dooley]

Thanks. Am really looking forward to working with it. Good to know it is actually a D30. Lol. That's the first I had heard of that model designation. Does it represent diesel or possibly the CUCV thing?

The D30 designation shows up in the serial number because it was built for the military. They're not entirely exact to the civilian model.
I have done a gasser installation of one of these but, kept much of the 24V system so that it would be still compatible with my other ex-military equipment. I did a tall deck but, would do a regular deck BB if doing that one again. Could have saved on the aftermarket intake.
Make sure you have the correct power steering pump/lower bracket for the hyroboost brakes.

 

[dvdswan]

Welcome to the site.

 

[Buck69]

The D30 designation shows up in the serial number because it was built for the military. They're not entirely exact to the civilian model.
I have done a gasser installation of one of these but, kept much of the 24V system so that it would be still compatible with my other ex-military equipment. I did a tall deck but, would do a regular deck BB if doing that one again. Could have saved on the aftermarket intake.
Make sure you have the correct power steering pump/lower bracket for the hyroboost brakes.

That's cool. The VIN is 1GCGD34J5GF...... . It has some snow on it now but should be bringing it the shop next week to start going over it.
It really is a gem. The power steering pump is tied off to the side and all hooked up. If memory serves me well, the only thing missing on the truck is the 6.2 and the radiator with it's shroud and support brackets. The spare tire and assault rifle brackets are even where they should be. Even the exhaust is clean and looks to be ready to bolt up to the manifolds. Will have to check on size but appears to be close to what my old pick ups were.
When I swapped a 350 to 454 in my old '73, I believe I only changed the power steering pump and bumped up the exhaust. It was a pretty simple swap over.

 

[mrdap]

Welcome from Arizona!!!
Very very cool vehicle!

 

[RanchWelder]

355HO all the way... 10.6:1 forged flat tops...octane boosted every fill up...
Don't forget the red Heat... Great gas mileage...
Careful Cam selection during road use means a lot for the high compression engine... watch your rocker Poly locks, they will require adjustment, even after locking... If you don't run Poly locks, then you need to.
Tall covers are required...
454's cool too...

 

[Craig 85]

Welcome. Looks like you found a nice truck. My K30 has a 454/Th400/NP205 set up with 3.73's. Tires are 32.8" inches tall (305/70R16). At 55 MPH I'm turning 2000 RPM.

My truck has a 3" lift for reference.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Buck69]

355HO all the way... 10.6:1 forged flat tops...octane boosted every fill up...
Don't forget the red Heat... Great gas mileage...
Careful Cam selection during road use means a lot for the high compression engine... watch your rocker Poly locks, they will require adjustment, even after locking... If you don't run Poly locks, then you need to.
Tall covers are required...
454's cool too...

You kind of lost me here a bit. This truck is geared pretty low. I am thinking more of a lower compression build to run 87 and get some longevity out it and the truck itself. This will just be an off road crawler for me usually with a small jet boat in tow.
I have an '08 2500 with a Duramax if I'm feeling like some head snap stuff. It took a real sheet kicking last fall with the little clearance it has and lighter front end. An appropriate trailer for the jet boat will also be on the build list.

 

[RanchWelder]

You kind of lost me here a bit. This truck is geared pretty low. I am thinking more of a lower compression build to run 87 and get some longevity out it and the truck itself. This will just be an off road crawler for me usually with a small jet boat in tow.
I have an '08 2500 with a Duramax if I'm feeling like some head snap stuff. It took a real sheet kicking last fall with the little clearance it has and lighter front end. An appropriate trailer for the jet boat will also be on the build list.

Here's my cam using a Jasper Built Marine engine, circa 1994 GM Cast Iron Block, High Compression Forged Pistons, cast GM Performance Crank, Short Block with Vortec Heads and a 7116 intake and stock TBI, (for now)... 670-680 cfm TBI sooner or later...
Comp 12-304-4 Flat Tappet... .406 / .406 252 / 252 13.0 ATDC Good low end torque on a stock engine standard compression...
*************Way better torque on a high compression engine... **************

Comp Extreme Energy Lifters... .015" stainless head gaskets, Flat Top Forged 4 cut Pistons were .020" from the top deck. AFR non-stretch head bolts.

I wanted to go roller but it was several thousand dollars more for quality parts...

The forged pistons cover you in case of detonation... and allow you to go carb, TBI, EFI, (nitrous if your greedy)... whatever... it will be built to last with Moly rings... no early cracking from lube issues... No need for a forged crank or forged rods.... Skirted pistons...

Keep the lift within reason, and it will outlast any low compression engine and gain efficiency. You'll have to run zinc and high octane (no ethanol ever) with a boost additive every tank full 91-93 octane. The results should outlast your low compression engine on pump gas with corn...

Let me be clear, I run 91 octane high test because that's what they sell here in MT. It has zero ethanol. Then I run Lucas Octane Booster at 1 @ 15oz bottle for every half tank full, for at least a 3 octane boost to 94+, maybe 95+. It pings if I don't use a booster, because the compression is asking for better fuel.
... No CHIP, yet... plugs are nice'n brown. It's not a rocket ship, but it has torque for days.

The idea is to over protect for detonation at any point in the engine's life. It happens due to sensor failure, engine wear, improper timing... etc... Moly rings will last a very long time without the giggle juice on these specs... 300-400,000 miles or more... The high compression makes the most of the lower quality fuel injection's capabilities. My heads are 64cc, stainless valves, ported mildly to the gasket shapes on both sides of the heads. 1-5/8" primaries to 2-1/2" collectors using Sanderson Stainless Shorty headers.

The TBI prevent cylinder wash, vs a carburetor = engine life...

If you do not defend for ping and detonation during the engine's life cycle it will kill your low compression engine when it happens by accident or improper tuning issues. Unfortunately, these can and will occur with a TBI engine, when the knock sensor fails or the engine is using poor quality fuel or any number of issues.

It's not bullet proof, just much better at handling the inevitable... Strong internals and low to moderate cam = long life engine.
I used a Melling high volume oil pump, not high pressure... you can probably get by with a regular volume pump as well.
The best solution is buying a Dart Block with primary oiling... this is probably the next best solution, in my opinion.

Hope this clears up the logic and handles the safety limits: spending the least, to achieve the most... without breaking anything.
Compression can be your friend... just don't push it with a huge cam or 1.6:1 rockers... you do not ever need them.
Start with the camshaft... then build outwards... Not the other way around...

This engine formula, runs without a specialized chip tuned at this point... keep this in mind... until you reach the limit of your build via tuning, you need to stay within the OBD1 capabilities or you'll blow the heads when you run out of ECM capability...

My engine is under performing with another 50HP possible with the 680cfm TBI and the chip, however it can run safely right here for a very long time and it hurts nothing to do so... Building in stages is difficult. Mistakes by going huge cams can be brutal on street driven vehicles. Check out the torque for the cam I listed for your application... then adjust for a high 10.6:1 compression... not 1.6 lifters...

Then call Comp and get the story from them... not me... I'll bet you are surprised what they say...
The only mod I wished I'de done when installing the heads is Comp beehive springs/retainers and EDL .050" shorter valve stem locks... They are on my desk as I write this... The beehive's are very good at handling float and with less pressure than standard size Vortec Flat Tappet rated springs. Less pressure = faster valve timing. Less load on the cam... These stupid little tricks are what really makes power, not throwing money at it and praying it works... Crappy low octane fuel is not your friend...

Jasper Marine 355HO Flat Top Forged Piston engines are very good place to start... The freeze plugs are brass, not steel... they will never rust.
Just buy the best you can afford or go Dart if you have the cash.

 

[Rumbledawg]

good eye John, upper fraser valley, just outside of hope. but i'm a northerner at heart, was born and raised in dawson click, but down here is the only place i can work my job yr round....planning on moving back up north in the next 3-5 yrs (kid, college costs....) but wifey don't want to move that far. in fact she wants to move to either quesnel or terrace area (she can get a transfer for her job). personally i'm leaning more to anahim lake area, buddy has some property he is willing to sell.
wouldn't worry to much about using a small block. with a T400 and 4:56's, it won't be a dog. ya i run a big block in my truck, but it will JUMP off the line. i've surprised a few mustangs, camaro's and a hopped up honda. i attribute most of it to them four five sixes. although the detroit, close to 3 feet of rubber and almost 600 pounds of torque help too...
and crewy sheet metal down herte is no better, looked for almost 3 yrs till i found this one, and it was in prince george of all places....body was pretty solid, but it did need some massaging, like you i hate body work too...lol