new engine for my 85 chevy k10 outdoorsman

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Skweegle89

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I like the jeg but couldn't find the price for the engine with the extra components like it states it's 30 less hp then the gm performance u can get from a dealership tho


You can use the components you already have. Spend an extra $300 to throw an intake, cam and lifters on it and your well over 300hp at less money than the dealership was going to charge, and you get the same warranty.


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DoubleDingo

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Carb'ed Vortec 350
Back to the 350 engine part I was lookin at going to chevy dealership and I can get a brand new 350 with 100,000 mile warranty for 2200 dollars and it their performance 350 with 290 hp.... that's wat I was leaning towards I just don't know all the options I could do

If you have dealer nearby that is the easiest route. I bought two at one time back 98 from the dealer and it they had them in stock. Money in hand to the dealer, two long blocks loaded up to go home with.

And what Skweegle said, add the extra components for extra torque/power.
 

marks86

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Back to the 350 engine part I was lookin at going to chevy dealership and I can get a brand new 350 with 100,000 mile warranty for 2200 dollars and it their performance 350 with 290 hp.... that's wat I was leaning towards I just don't know all the options I could do

he already stated in his area its 2200 for a SB why spend the extra 600bucks when you can have the one from jegs shipped right to your door for free
 

DoubleDingo

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he already stated in his area its 2200 for a SB why spend the extra 600bucks when you can have the one from jegs shipped right to your door for free

Can't take me anywhere. :cheers: I Hit the quote button but didn't read the entire post. That's what happens when you're trying to quickly browse and comment while at work.
 

Skweegle89

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Spend that extra $650 on upgrades and have a damn nice motor for $2200


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marks86

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maybe you should just put a big block in it:flipthebird::rotflmao:
 

rich weyand

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you would be completely insane to go through a dealership to buy a SBC

Agreed. Buy it from JEGS. Same engine, cheaper, and free shipping.

I have been all over 350 cam choices over the past several years. Do NOT buy the 350/290hp engine. The problem with the GM 350/290 crate engine (GM #12499529) is that it does not have the low end torque you need.

GM put the cam from a high-compression 1967 Corvette 350/350hp engine in a low-compression 350, and it has low static compression and a lot of overlap. What this gets you is horsepower up top, but no bottom end. At all. BTDT. With this engine my truck was a slug off the line, though it was a two-lane terror for passing. 50-90 mph times were excellent. 0-50 times were l-o-n-g. Particularly in a truck, this is a bad choice. This is also an old-tech cam grind with long ramps. Modern computer-modeled cams deliver much better performance for the same givens by speeding up the ramps. This gives longer closure times -- more dynamic compression and a longer power stroke -- with improved flow.

The better choice is to get the base GM 350/260 crate engine (GM #10067353), save yourself about $500 compared to the 350/290, and then swap the Comp Cams 12-235-2 cam into that engine before you even put it in. I swapped out the cam in my 350/290 once it had been in the truck a year, and it's a LOT more work to swap a cam after the engine is in the truck! This cam is a modern grind, will give you 300 hp, but will also give you almost 400 lbft of torque, with almost 300 lbft at 1000 rpm. Which means it will have grunt from the get-go, for getting off the line. Get too pedal-crazy with those numbers and you will get to know the people at your local tire store really, really well.

If you swap the cam into the new engine, you'll void the warranty, but them's the breaks. You also don't need to change out the lifters (which set up to the cam within the first hour of operation -- once the engine is run AT ALL, if you change the cam, you MUST change the lifters) or the springs (as the stock springs in the 350/260 engine will work fine with the 12-235-2 cam).

Now engine alone isn't enough. You also need all the right plumbing to get those numbers. I would recommend an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, a Quadrajet tuned to order by Sean Murphy Induction, Hooker headers, and dual 2.25" exhaust through a pair of Flowmaster 40 (louder) or 50 (quieter) mufflers, with a 2" H-pipe.

That's about the cheapest high-performance new engine you can get. If you want to go crazy, get the 350/260hp crate engine, put the 12-238-2 cam and a set of DART heads on it, and you will have 400hp and 420lbft of torque. That would be insane, but I know someone who did it, and he loves it.
 

rich weyand

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I like the jeg but couldn't find the price for the engine with the extra components like it states it's 30 less hp then the gm performance u can get from a dealership tho

You can get the 350/290 from JEGS as well, and it's about $140 less delivered.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Performance/809/12499529/10002/-1

Like I said, though, you do not want that engine. You are looking at 30 more hp, same as I was, and thinking that GM knew what they were doing. They didn't when they made this engine. What you give up for that 30 more hp is most of the torque below 3000 rpm.

Oh, and in addition to the comments I made above, gas mileage will absolutely suck with this engine in your truck. Like, mid single-digits suck.
 

mrdeades1987

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Agreed. Buy it from JEGS. Same engine, cheaper, and free shipping.

I have been all over 350 cam choices over the past several years. Do NOT buy the 350/290hp engine. The problem with the GM 350/290 crate engine (GM #12499529) is that it does not have the low end torque you need.

GM put the cam from a high-compression 1967 Corvette 350/350hp engine in a low-compression 350, and it has low static compression and a lot of overlap. What this gets you is horsepower up top, but no bottom end. At all. BTDT. With this engine my truck was a slug off the line, though it was a two-lane terror for passing. 50-90 mph times were excellent. 0-50 times were l-o-n-g. Particularly in a truck, this is a bad choice. This is also an old-tech cam grind with long ramps. Modern computer-modeled cams deliver much better performance for the same givens by speeding up the ramps. This gives longer closure times -- more dynamic compression and a longer power stroke -- with improved flow.

The better choice is to get the base GM 350/260 crate engine (GM #10067353), save yourself about $500 compared to the 350/290, and then swap the Comp Cams 12-235-2 cam into that engine before you even put it in. I swapped out the cam in my 350/290 once it had been in the truck a year, and it's a LOT more work to swap a cam after the engine is in the truck! This cam is a modern grind, will give you 300 hp, but will also give you almost 400 lbft of torque, with almost 300 lbft at 1000 rpm. Which means it will have grunt from the get-go, for getting off the line. Get too pedal-crazy with those numbers and you will get to know the people at your local tire store really, really well.

If you swap the cam into the new engine, you'll void the warranty, but them's the breaks. You also don't need to change out the lifters (which set up to the cam within the first hour of operation -- once the engine is run AT ALL, if you change the cam, you MUST change the lifters) or the springs (as the stock springs in the 350/260 engine will work fine with the 12-235-2 cam).

Now engine alone isn't enough. You also need all the right plumbing to get those numbers. I would recommend an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, a Quadrajet tuned to order by Sean Murphy Induction, Hooker headers, and dual 2.25" exhaust through a pair of Flowmaster 40 (louder) or 50 (quieter) mufflers, with a 2" H-pipe.

That's about the cheapest high-performance new engine you can get. If you want to go crazy, get the 350/260hp crate engine, put the 12-238-2 cam and a set of DART heads on it, and you will have 400hp and 420lbft of torque. That would be insane, but I know someone who did it, and he loves it.

I'm leaning more towards the 350/260 cause I live in the mountains and use the truck on the farm so torque is of more importance as far as other engine components all of mine are still good and my 350 had over 300hp with a holley stree avenger carb. Looking at the jegs site I can get a complete build of 350/260hp, edelbrock proformer intake, edelbrock proformer 600cfm carb, hei dizzy, and coil for $2400. Now since all mine still in working order idk if I should get the full kit or just nick pick wat I want and pay the individual prices and get a new cam and maybe not to intake. I'm not sure what intake I have I know it's edelbrock. And I can take the holley carb and put it on my 68 chevelle. I'm just looking for ideas I don't really want to go with a bigger engine. Since mine gets about 10 mpg gping down hill in neutral. I hear pepole saying they are get 15-18 mpg out of their crate engines wouldn't mind getting better mpg
 

Skweegle89

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I'm leaning more towards the 350/260 cause I live in the mountains and use the truck on the farm so torque is of more importance as far as other engine components all of mine are still good and my 350 had over 300hp with a holley stree avenger carb. Looking at the jegs site I can get a complete build of 350/260hp, edelbrock proformer intake, edelbrock proformer 600cfm carb, hei dizzy, and coil for $2400. Now since all mine still in working order idk if I should get the full kit or just nick pick wat I want and pay the individual prices and get a new cam and maybe not to intake. I'm not sure what intake I have I know it's edelbrock. And I can take the holley carb and put it on my 68 chevelle. I'm just looking for ideas I don't really want to go with a bigger engine. Since mine gets about 10 mpg gping down hill in neutral. I hear pepole saying they are get 15-18 mpg out of their crate engines wouldn't mind getting better mpg


Just use the components that you have, but put that holly on a shelf and have somebody build you a quadrajet. There is a member here that does complete qjet rebuilds.


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350runner

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Yea Holley for the track q jet for the street. I suggest comp cams for ease of install. A nice rv cam is ask you'll need around the farm. 216 duration or less is better.

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rich weyand

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I second all that. Put a Qjet on it, on an Edelbrock dual-plane manifold. In a K, with a TH350, the hubs free and decent weather, you'll get 10 pretty regular in town and 12 on the highway, maybe a touch more. Maybe a bit more depending on what your axle ratio is. I've got 3.78:1 with 31" tires and a very well-tuned Edelbrock carb, and get just shy of 10 in town and 12 on the highway. The Qjet will do a bit better; a 3.42:1 will do a bit better yet on the highway.

If you really want torque, the 12-300-4 cam is about the most torque you can get out of a base 350 crate with just a cam change. The 12-235-2 cam has a bit less torque, but a bit more horsepower -- basically, it winds a little tighter -- and is probably a better all-around pick for flatlanders. On the farm, in the mountains, I'd go with the 12-300-4. In fact, that's what I put in mine and I love it.
 

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