Need to replace rubber fuel lines on top of both tanks….

[Dukester68]

Hey everyone… my fuel lines (rubber) are cracked and leaking at the top of the tanks and i can see them at the gap between the can and bed. My question is, is it easier to drop the tanks are raise the bed to fix these hoses? Also since im in there is it best to go ahead and replace the sending units also? I get a quarter tank reading on the main tank when full and haven’t tried to fill the passenger side. I have had the instrument panel out and all the connections are cleaned and good. Im thinking it could be the connections at the top of the sending units as well.
Thanks in advance!!

 

[75BEASTK20]

Personally, I'd raise the bed (It's 6 bolts I THINK), then while you're replacing hoses and sending units (if needed), do the rear cab mounts at the same time. Go polyurethane body mount bushings. Tightens everything up good.** Check your grounds too**. Fixes a lot of possible issues when you raise the bed.

 

[Ricko1966]

I prefer to drop the tanks,with fill tube and brackets attached. With a cordless impact, zap out the 8 tank bracket bolts,a cordless drill to zap out the filler neck screws,a pair of pruning shears to reach up and cut the old hoses and a gear wrench to undo the tank ground. it's less than 20 minutes to drop the tank. 3 screws 10 bolts cut the hoses at the sending unit,the tank is on the ground.

 

[kgerrish]

I just replaced the tank along with the soft and hard lines on my 1985 K20. Single tank, driver's side. I started by dropping the tank which pulled off the rubber hoses between the tank and the hard lines. These were only about 6 inches long so the tank is not coming down without something bending or pulling off. However that is not the problem....getting new lines in and secure and getting the tank back up installed. Ultimately I ended up removing the bed....engine lift and a jig from Summit...actually a one-man job that way.

If you are going to replace your hard lines please let me know. I had a confusing time trying to order the right ones. I should be able to point you in the right direction.

 

[cmichels83]

I replaced the hose on my passenger tank without dropping it or removing the bed. I did it in my driveway this summer. Someone had cut a hole in the fill neck hose and it leaked when trying to put gas in. Do yourself a favor and get new hose clamps. I pretty much destroyed the stock clamps getting those rusty things off. If I remember correctly, I think I cut the hose in half, then used a pipe wrench to turn them into a position I could loosen the clamps. After the old hose was off, took all of 5 mins to put the new one on.

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[Ricko1966]

NM

 

[Grit dog]

Hey everyone… my fuel lines (rubber) are cracked and leaking at the top of the tanks and i can see them at the gap between the can and bed. My question is, is it easier to drop the tanks are raise the bed to fix these hoses? Also since im in there is it best to go ahead and replace the sending units also? I get a quarter tank reading on the main tank when full and haven’t tried to fill the passenger side. I have had the instrument panel out and all the connections are cleaned and good. Im thinking it could be the connections at the top of the sending units as well.
Thanks in advance!!

You’ll get opinions on both ways. I’ve done it both ways and barring some really weird condition, I’d take the raise or remove bed option in most scenarios.
This is one of those, look ahead at everything you want to accomplish before starting and then dive in and do it once, decision moments. Because no matter what you do, you don’t really want to do it again for a long time.

I replaced the hose on my passenger tank without dropping it or removing the bed. I did it in my driveway this summer. Someone had cut a hole in the fill neck hose and it leaked when trying to put gas in. Do yourself a favor and get new hose clamps. I pretty much destroyed the stock clamps getting those rusty things off. If I remember correctly, I think I cut the hose in half, then used a pipe wrench to turn them into a position I could loosen the clamps. After the old hose was off, took all of 5 mins to put the new one on.

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Different hose(s). Perty sure you’re not getting the hoses from the sender back in without the tank down some or bed up some.

 

[cmichels83]

You’ll get opinions on both ways. I’ve done it both ways and barring some really weird condition, I’d take the raise or remove bed option in most scenarios.
This is one of those, look ahead at everything you want to accomplish before starting and then dive in and do it once, decision moments. Because no matter what you do, you don’t really want to do it again for a long time.

Different hose(s). Perty sure you’re not getting the hoses from the sender back in without the tank down some or bed up some.

My mistake, you are right. I immediately thought about the hose I replaced and didn't think about the others.

 

[scrap--metal]

Sometimes the bolts holding the bed down can be pretty crusted in place. The condition of your truck may dictate which method is easier. I'd hate to have to torch bed bolts just to deal with gas tank issues. On the other hand, laying on your back and eating rust isn't typically enjoyable either.

 

[Ricko1966]

Sometimes the bolts holding the bed down can be pretty crusted in place. The condition of your truck may dictate which method is easier. I'd hate to have to torch bed bolts just to deal with gas tank issues. On the other hand, laying on your back and eating rust isn't typically enjoyable either.

That's always been my luck the bed bolts are so rusty you can't get 1/2 of them off and the trash is falling in your face,the tank bracket bolts are short,and through the frame. The tank is bolted outside the frame rail you're working on the inside of the frame rail. The craps falling next to you instead of on you. And you don't need help or a fixture to move the bed. Tank up tank and down. I use 1 hand on 1 end a knee on the other,up and down. You don't even have to jack up the truck. The tank slides out right by the rear tire.

 

[mxer147]

Ricko makes a good argument about the bed bolts. If you get lucky and the 8 nuts all spin off, then also remove the rear bumper and slide it back a foot or two to access the fuel lines and sending unit. If you plan on painting it and a color change, the timing could be right for that too.

 

[Dukester68]

You’ll get opinions on both ways. I’ve done it both ways and barring some really weird condition, I’d take the raise or remove bed option in most scenarios.
This is one of those, look ahead at everything you want to accomplish before starting and then dive in and do it once, decision moments. Because no matter what you do, you don’t really want to do it again for a long time.

Different hose(s). Perty sure you’re not getting the hoses from the sender back in without the tank down some or bed up some.

Thank you! Bed off or backed out this week!

 

[Dukester68]

I prefer to drop the tanks,with fill tube and brackets attached. With a cordless impact, zap out the 8 tank bracket bolts,a cordless drill to zap out the filler neck screws,a pair of pruning shears to reach up and cut the old hoses and a gear wrench to undo the tank ground. it's less than 20 minutes to drop the tank. 3 screws 10 bolts cut the hoses at the sending unit,the tank is on the ground.

Yes but how do you get the three hoses attached on the top?? Thanks in advance

 

[Dukester68]

I just replaced the tank along with the soft and hard lines on my 1985 K20. Single tank, driver's side. I started by dropping the tank which pulled off the rubber hoses between the tank and the hard lines. These were only about 6 inches long so the tank is not coming down without something bending or pulling off. However that is not the problem....getting new lines in and secure and getting the tank back up installed. Ultimately I ended up removing the bed....engine lift and a jig from Summit...actually a one-man job that way.

If you are going to replace your hard lines please let me know. I had a confusing time trying to order the right ones. I should be able to point you in the right direction.

Im not planning on replacing the hard lines but if i do i definitely will let you know. Thank you!!!!

 

[Dukester68]

Sometimes the bolts holding the bed down can be pretty crusted in place. The condition of your truck may dictate which method is easier. I'd hate to have to torch bed bolts just to deal with gas tank issues. On the other hand, laying on your back and eating rust isn't typically enjoyable either.

Fortunately this truck is rust free! Im amazed at the condition of the frame and underbelly. Im hopeful that the bed bolts will not be a challenge! Thank you for your input!