Need to replace rubber fuel lines on top of both tanks….

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Dukester68

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That's always been my luck the bed bolts are so rusty you can't get 1/2 of them off and the trash is falling in your face,the tank bracket bolts are short,and through the frame. The tank is bolted outside the frame rail you're working on the inside of the frame rail. The craps falling next to you instead of on you. And you don't need help or a fixture to move the bed. Tank up tank and down. I use 1 hand on 1 end a knee on the other,up and down. You don't even have to jack up the truck. The tank slides out right by the rear tire.
Thank you for your input! It is much appreciated!!
 

Ricko1966

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Yes but how do you get the three hoses attached on the top?? Thanks in advance
You cut them with pruning shears. Going back in you are using new hoses anyway. Put them on the tank and clamped, and a second set of clamps slid on the hoses a couple inches from the ends.Going back in guide your new hoses where they need to be,the push on easy,they are new and flexible, slide the clamps up,tighten with a nut driver. I do leave my new hoses a little longer and cut them after the tank is up and hanging. Reread post 3. What ever you do,post back as to how it goes.
 

Grit dog

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Sometimes the bolts holding the bed down can be pretty crusted in place. The condition of your truck may dictate which method is easier. I'd hate to have to torch bed bolts just to deal with gas tank issues. On the other hand, laying on your back and eating rust isn't typically enjoyable either.
Agreed, but just like @Ricko1966 has so many good means and methods, if you go into it knowing you’re axing bed bolts, it’s not too hard and doesn’t take that long and a new set is like $25. Then you’ve just fixed a future issue forever.
Whoever asked about re-hooking up the hoses with the bed in place, I’ve done it. Just have to make larger loops in the hose so you can hook it up with the tank hanging down a bit.
End of the day, depends on the condition of the truck and what your end goal is. If it’s a zero budget, don’t have all the good tools, get it back on the road thing, then drop the tank(s).
 

Dukester68

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Agreed, but just like @Ricko1966 has so many good means and methods, if you go into it knowing you’re axing bed bolts, it’s not too hard and doesn’t take that long and a new set is like $25. Then you’ve just fixed a future issue forever.
Whoever asked about re-hooking up the hoses with the bed in place, I’ve done it. Just have to make larger loops in the hose so you can hook it up with the tank hanging down a bit.
End of the day, depends on the condition of the truck and what your end goal is. If it’s a zero budget, don’t have all the good tools, get it back on the road thing, then drop the tank(s).
Im going to move the bed this weekend… back a few feet. I have new hose and sender units ready to go.
 

Dukester68

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You’ll get opinions on both ways. I’ve done it both ways and barring some really weird condition, I’d take the raise or remove bed option in most scenarios.
This is one of those, look ahead at everything you want to accomplish before starting and then dive in and do it once, decision moments. Because no matter what you do, you don’t really want to do it again for a long time.

Different hose(s). Perty sure you’re not getting the hoses from the sender back in without the tank down some or bed up some.
Im going in head first this weekend. I have help to pull the bed back a few feet and all the hose and sender units. Wish me luck!! Thx for all the suggestions
 

mxer147

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Give those bed bolt nuts a good spray of rust penetrant the day before and have your helper stand on the bolt head while you’re removing the nut with an impact wrench to help them stay put and not spin.….good luck.
 

75gmck25

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If the bed bolts spin when you turn them, I’ve found two ways to hold the smooth bolt head in the bed.
- dimple the bed slightly around the bolt head, providing enough space to clamp on vice grips. If you orient the vice grips out toward the side you can also slip a piece of pipe over the handle and get more leverage.
- take an angle grinder and cut a deep slot across the head of the bolt. Get the biggest screwdriver you have and use it in the slot to have someone else hold the bolt in place.

For my truck I’ve always dropped the tanks to replace lines or sending unit. My new hoses are EFI grade that will resist gas with ethanol. I left them a little long so that it would be easier to raise the tank and snake the lines over the frame at the same time. I use a piece of 2x8 under the tank, and a floor jack under it to raise the tank.
 

75gmck25

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EFI SAEJ30R7 or R9 hose is expensive from the local auto stores, so I have bought sections (10 foot?) online from Amazon. I used the left over short pieces to replace all the short hoses on the dual tank solenoid and in the engine compartment.
 

Dukester68

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Give those bed bolt nuts a good spray of rust penetrant the day before and have your helper stand on the bolt head while you’re removing the nut with an impact wrench to help them stay put and not spin.….good luck.
Another great idea! I was under the truck yesterday and im amazed on the condition of the bolts and such. Im hoping the nuts come off easily. So far its been a fun truck to work on because of the condition. Thx for advice sir!!
 

Dukester68

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If the bed bolts spin when you turn them, I’ve found two ways to hold the smooth bolt head in the bed.
- dimple the bed slightly around the bolt head, providing enough space to clamp on vice grips. If you orient the vice grips out toward the side you can also slip a piece of pipe over the handle and get more leverage.
- take an angle grinder and cut a deep slot across the head of the bolt. Get the biggest screwdriver you have and use it in the slot to have someone else hold the bolt in place.

For my truck I’ve always dropped the tanks to replace lines or sending unit. My new hoses are EFI grade that will resist gas with ethanol. I left them a little long so that it would be easier to raise the tank and snake the lines over the frame at the same time. I use a piece of 2x8 under the tank, and a floor jack under it to raise the tank.
Awesome ideas and thank you! I will report my experience asap. Lol… hopefully…
 

Dukester68

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EFI SAEJ30R7 or R9 hose is expensive from the local auto stores, so I have bought sections (10 foot?) online from Amazon. I used the left over short pieces to replace all the short hoses on the dual tank solenoid and in the engine compartment.
Great advice i just ordered some of that and some 1/4 inch. Thanks
 

Grit dog

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If the bed bolts spin when you turn them, I’ve found two ways to hold the smooth bolt head in the bed.
- dimple the bed slightly around the bolt head, providing enough space to clamp on vice grips. If you orient the vice grips out toward the side you can also slip a piece of pipe over the handle and get more leverage.
- take an angle grinder and cut a deep slot across the head of the bolt. Get the biggest screwdriver you have and use it in the slot to have someone else hold the bolt in place.

For my truck I’ve always dropped the tanks to replace lines or sending unit. My new hoses are EFI grade that will resist gas with ethanol. I left them a little long so that it would be easier to raise the tank and snake the lines over the frame at the same time. I use a piece of 2x8 under the tank, and a floor jack under it to raise the tank.
You NEED 2 people or a welder to remove bed bolts unless you just cut em off or split the nuts. They are 100% guaranteed to spin unless someone is standing on the bolt head or you tack them to the bed floor.
Even if they are not corroded, they’re about 20% guaranteed to spin.
Just a heads up.
 

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