Need Spindle/Locking Hub help 81 k10

[ryno_rx8]

Hey guys new to the forum and just picked up a 81 k10 with the factory GM 10 bolt up front. It had some major issues and had to do a full rebuild on it and have got it all back together and am trying to get the new Mile Marker locking hub on the passenger side nad can't get the axle to come out far enough to get the snap ring in. I have the outer most ring in but not the snap ring that goes on the axle. I have the bearings pretty tight and if i go any tighter, i can't turn the wheel. Any i deas? I have tried using pry bar to pull hte axle out but no avail. Thanks.

 

[crazy4offroad]

The way I always did it was to use a small pry bar in the open knuckle to push it out and at the same time you have to push the hub assembly in a little. May take and extra pair of hands to pry the shaft out, press the hub assembly in, and put the snapring on at the same time. Otherwise I would say your grease seal on the stub shaft that presses against the spindle might be what's holding it up from coming together.

 

[ryno_rx8]

it might be, i was wondering that but since it was 5am and i had been working on it for about 10 hours, i was done lol. Im gonna try to push in and pull out a t the same time and see. I did notice that the drivers axle shaft had 2 notches for clips but the passenger side only had the one.

 

[MrMarty51]

On them wheel bearings,much more than hand tight and You will risk burning a bearing and possibly losing a spindle tooo boooot.juz sayin,thats all.

 

[bucket]

You can run without the c-clip on the stub shaft, I have for several years.

 

[ryno_rx8]

You can run without the c-clip on the stub shaft, I have for several years.

It won't cause any problems? Figured the axle would move too much. And I guess I'll back the nut off to take a little pressure of the bearings

 

[MrMarty51]

It won't cause any problems? Figured the axle would move too much. And I guess I'll back the nut off to take a little pressure of the bearings

A real good indicator when adjusting wheel bearings.first tighten the bearing down while rotating the drum/wheel,this is done to squish the ghrease out of the bearing to remove future slack,then back off the nut until the bearing is completely free.I grab the top and bottom of the drum/disk or wheel and try to make movement by pushing/pulling top to bottom,when I feel slack then I know that the bearing is free.Next,while rotating the assembly start to tighten the adjuster nut,all the while checking for movement,when I can feel no movement of the top/bottom pulling pushing exercise then I know that when I install the locking nut that there will be just about the right amount of "Pre Load" on the bearing.lock it down if it has tabs by bending one tab,just slightly to the inner nut and a full bend over a flat of the oputer nut.
Them adjusting nuts with the pin and trhe washer with all the holes can be used in place of the lock tab washers and then there is no more seeking tab washers when enough of the tabs gets bent.
When using them tab washers I "ALWAYS" break off the tabs that had been bent previousely,that way I will NOT BE TEMPTED to try using that tab that has been weakened by a previous bend.

 

[MrMarty51]

Wonder how He turned out wit His project.