Need exhaust ideas

[bigcountry78]

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We may have a winner here, thrush dual turbo exhaust system, side exit, on an 80’s c10. I like it. He has in the description that it’s a 305 converted to carb, running summit headers through a dynomax kit with thrush mufflers. How much difference do headers make in exhaust tone?

 

[Dutch Rutter]

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We may have a winner here, thrush dual turbo exhaust system, side exit, on an 80’s c10. I like it. He has in the description that it’s a 305 converted to carb, running summit headers through a dynomax kit with thrush mufflers. How much difference do headers make in exhaust tone?

When I had my same setup but with the manifolds instead of the headers I had more sound in the cab and maybe a bit deeper overall. I also think the H pipe quiets down the overall sound at idle but gives a nice rumble. They really come alive when you apply some skinny pedal.

 

[Rusty Nail]

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We may have a winner here, thrush dual turbo exhaust system, side exit, on an 80’s c10. I like it. He has in the description that it’s a 305 converted to carb, running summit headers through a dynomax kit with thrush mufflers. How much difference do headers make in exhaust tone?

a ton.

a ****.ton.

headers make it sound mean while manifolds sound.....domestic.

dude would FEEL the Hp increase in the butt dyno if he would add a simple H pipe and connect both sides.

muffs sound good AND.. THRUSH is a WAY OLDER name than Flowmaster, one could also add that old school cool flavor to the truck.

not my opinion, that is
FACT.

H-pipes add power.

seriously. headers and h-pipe is a LOTTTTT of horsepower to leave on the table for hardly any cash. .. choose wisely.

 

[bigcountry78]

a ton.

a ****.ton.

headears make is sound mean while manifolds sound.....domestic.

dude would FEEL the Hp increase in the butt dyno if he would add a simple H pipe and connect both sides.

muffs sound good AND.. THRUSH is a WAY OLDER name than Flowmaster, one could also add that old school cool flavor to the truck.

not my opinion, that is
FACT.

H-pipes add power.

seriously. headers and h-pipe is a LOTTTTT of horsepower to leave on the table for hardly any cash. .. choose wisely.

Ok let me ask you this: what’s the difference, if any, between an h pipe and x pipe? I’ve always had true duals, but I’ve never used an h pipe.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Ok let me ask you this: what’s the difference, if any, between an h pipe and x pipe? I’ve always had true duals, but I’ve never used an h pipe.

This is the first truck I've personally had that has anything but fully separated duals. The P.O. had this installed and I'm personally a fan.

After the digging I've done on them its said the H pipe gives more Tq while the X pipe favors HP. There is quite a bit of debate of it, location of the actual cross over plays a factor for how much benefit, along with diameter and other factors. I called it after reading that before the research hole digging got too far.

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

Might not fit in the budget category, but how about some Powersticks?! http://www.classicchambered.com/classic/products.html

 

[bigcountry78]

https://www.lmctruck.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Exhaust+systems

Lmc also sells complete systems with mufflers, but idk how they sound.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Might not fit in the budget category, but how about some Powersticks?! http://www.classicchambered.com/classic/products.html

Loooooooooove this idea in a BIG! mother way.
true 302 Z28s had those OE as well as flippin hot assed 427 Corvetes and 454 Chevelles among many others!

That idea of runnin , I call em "chambered pipes", - was way more new to me than THRUSH muffs but i've had it earnestly and reckon i'll know the place for those when I see it.
Dang.
runnin down a bed is a great idea...

Anyways!

I appreciate @Dutch Rutter 's experience a great deal his opinions are valid as can be to me, especially about H pipes.

My experience came about diffeently.
Many moons ago I lived,eat,slept, and drank , drag racing.. constantly searching to go.faster.

One day after I lost to an SHO after he squeezed, I decided that there was no GOOD reason NOT TO utilize every single last "horsepower tip and trick" that I could afford because losing sucks.
I had read thousands of magazines and had been down the strip tens of times. I already had an exhaust guy lol, and one day decided to go see Richard the Expert Muffler.
He wasn't God , (contrary to rumor) but he was a regular wizard with a stik, that he was.Is.

he didnt seem to think the actual size/type of connection was imperative, Richard thinks it's mostly about sharing exhaust pulse.
Ok...whatever. IDGAF about the pulses, I understand scavenging.
IMO the H-pipe serves as a secondary or addutional means to scavenge more completely and efficiently.
That sounds good and all but I went a bit further down that research hole.
Again, after every.last.HP.

There is another entire chapter regarding distances and diameters of course.

...
.

look its a long topic that I have done exhausting research about.


get it?

I had to go get a tune to keep the train rollin.

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we'll continue in the next post so it can play while I type.

 

[Rusty Nail]

AND THEN

?

enter exhaust gas exit velocity.

omg seriously.important.

exhaust gasses cooling too fast is bad.

collector length?

pipe diameter?

pipe MATERIAL?

ugch.

seriously.involved topic and I can save you a lot of trouble if you have Paypal...

 

[Rusty Nail]

lmao im just playin..@work layin low in the Civic..it's my Friday.

the trouble I can save you is this:
the "perfect spots" and otherwise ideal conditions are NOT REASONABLE sometimes not even possible in a street car. truck, whatever.

Very reasonable adjustments still provide handsome gains.
i've always read x pipes went faster than I did. Useless for the street unless you want a peak number. H pipes aid low end better.

22" collectors and an 3 inch H-pipe 34" back is NOT HANDY.
Shorter 16" collectors are gooder street truck (see your auto trans) and wise guys make their H pipe "serviceable" too.placing it underneath the U joint for your best option.. it is said farther back is better (exhaust cooling+ pipe material) but after u get underneath her, you'll see the right spots, NO NEED to worry in our applications.

easy enough.
It really is a ten minute job that hardly costs anything.

AND THEN

after your amazement sets in..it took me several days, you'll likely be kicking your own ass for not doing it sooner.

sounds extra high class and exotic.

It seemed like my junk wasnt good enough or something. like who am I kidding that old heap will benefit? Dude it'll drive like a supercar and NEVER pop.

it's so gawddanged cool...your midrange opens and gets all fat in the middle plus it sounds a hunnert times cooler - all the time!

Anyone can has H pipe in America, provided youve got 20 bucks...

you'll be amazed, I swear you wont go back. it'll be like you always knew it could do.

May your pedal be deep.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I’ve posted these before, but never explained my thinking.

I went over the transfer case tail housing rather than under for a few reasons. One is heat rises. Two is that it makes R&R of transmission and TC easier. Three, i was concerned with condensation accumulating in the valley of the ‘V’ in a low velocity area of pipe.

Played around with several configurations before I welded it up. This routing offered the greatest ground clearance and tucked it up high with the fewest bends. Just two opposing shallow angles.

There are two isolator hangers/perches per crossmember for a total of 6. It isn’t going anywhere and can’t touch metal. If I need to remove it for any reason, I used clamps at the peak of the crossover. Unbolt that and the ball/socket collectors and each bank will slide out.

system consists of headman ‘black maxx’ ceramic coated headers with 3/8” solid flange, 12 gauge primaries and 3” ball/socket collectors. The pipe is 2-1/2 inch, as is the crossover and stainless borla proXS center in/center out non chambered mufflers. Painted the pipes and muffs with VHT black.

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[Octane]

Mine are 3" from the collector all the way out. Theyve been on maybe 4 years and still in solid shape.

My flowmasters are in really good shape even at 17 yo.Some small sections of the pipes are heavily rusted so I'll scrape and put hi temp paint on it.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

@Rusty Nail just enlightened the shiiit outta me and I couldn't agree more.

 

[Rusty Nail]

oh Brother!

 

[shiftpro]

I'm skeptical that H pipes are the bee's knees. I have made many for myself and others. They certainly bring the sound level down enough to notice.
Extra power? Well I guess if you get lucky and put them in the ideal spot for your engine, heads and cam you might make enough extra power to actually feel something. Most of us will never feel an extra 2 hp. But then again, A nice cool night can support a few extra ponies but also makes an engine wake up sooner, rev quicker, and this we can feel... but most likely it's the quicker response that we 'feel'.
A better sounding (louder) vehicle always 'feels' faster.
I consider myself a very decent welder and fabricator (so do the people that have paid for my services) but obviously I'm doing something wrong.
There is no way I could ever build and weld up an H pipe in 5 minutes, or 10, or 20. I don't squeeze the cross pipe into ovals, which would speed things up a bit. I cut and grind the pipe to fit, keeping it round. The better the fit the better weld quality. This is not a place imo to rely on 'filling' it in. I make the joint the same as if I was building a roll cage with DOM tubing.
If it took me two hours I would be very pleased. If I charge my client $150 for my work, they would be very pleased.
Maybe I'm just fooling myself thinking I'm a decent fabricator... 5 minutes, holy **** I have a lot to learn.

And my last comment in this post....
if you want a nice sounding truck, START with a BB.