NECESSARY Q-jet vacuum lines needed

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Old60Driver

1983 K20 Silverado
Joined
May 17, 2020
Posts
245
Reaction score
306
Location
Houston
First Name
Michael
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20 Silverado
Engine Size
350
Finally got some time to tinker. Got some headers installed (removed the air pump) and was moving on to cleaning up the 3.641 miles of vacuum lines up on the intake. I know I need vacuum advance, brakes, cruise (when I get around to troubleshooting that), but what else do I need? There seems to be a diaphragm at the back of the carb that works in some way with the secondaries. I'm sure I need some vacuum there.

Anyone have a quick and dirty diagram of the absolute required lines?

Thanks!

Edit to add transmission modulator...
 
Last edited:

DanMcG

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2014
Posts
1,076
Reaction score
1,891
Location
Central NY
First Name
Dan
Truck Year
1978 1985
Truck Model
k10 k10
Engine Size
400 350
Can you post a pic of the carb?
 

Ellie Niner

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2021
Posts
382
Reaction score
615
Location
Tucson, AZ
First Name
Tory
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10 Silverado
Engine Size
LE9 305
Also a picture of your emissions/vacuum hose routing diagram would be mucho helpful. I'm presuming this has Electronic Spark Control and an M4MED carburetor? The diaphragm should be to lock out your secondaries when the engine is cold (choke is on).
 

Old60Driver

1983 K20 Silverado
Joined
May 17, 2020
Posts
245
Reaction score
306
Location
Houston
First Name
Michael
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20 Silverado
Engine Size
350
Thanks for your replies!

Trying to get some pictures uploaded now, but I think I have it figured out. The diaphragm in the back I was referring to is the rear vacuum break. I was concerned with what type of vacuum it needed, manifold or ported. Decided on manifold. The thing was, there was a bazillion little check valves and miles of vacuum lines that just, well, cluttered things up. I'm getting everything prepped to pretty her up a bit with a new intake and some chrome bits that the wife bought for me (she's awesome like that), so I wanted to clean up (get rid of) the stuff I didn't really need.

I tell ya, after removing all of the air stuff, and slapping the headers on, she sounds damned amazing. And the off idle throttle response is MUCH better now. At least in park, that is. I've yet to run her under load, but I'm taking her to get the headers/exhaust welded up this morning. I'll let y'all know how she runs. AND I'll see if I can post some pics!

Thanks again!
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,304
Reaction score
2,272
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
In my experience the, vacuum break lines (there may be both a front and a rear vacuum break) just loop back to nearby ports on the carburetor itself. The lines are usually only a few inches long.

The minimum you need is one small manifold or ported vacuum line on the front running to the distributor advance (cap the small port you don’t use), one large nipple on the front for the PCV, and a large threaded fitting with metal pipe on the back for the brake booster.

If your truck was converted to electric choke you may also find a couple more fittings that look like small vacuum connections, but are actually left over from removing the hot air choke. They can just be capped.
 

Old60Driver

1983 K20 Silverado
Joined
May 17, 2020
Posts
245
Reaction score
306
Location
Houston
First Name
Michael
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20 Silverado
Engine Size
350
Roger that, thanks 75gmck25, that's what I was thinking as well.

'Preciate the info!
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,412
Posts
956,928
Members
36,734
Latest member
wjh1175
Top