Modern full floating swap

[nanook2k]

Ive got a 1976 C25 with drum brakes. I've been looking and doing allot of research to do a rear end swap to something more modern and with disk brakes. I know there's a few people out there with kits. I don't want a kit. I want a parking brake, and disk brakes and mounts that aren't retrofitted. Any body have experience with this.

 

[77 K20]

All I can tell you is my 03 Silverado has a AAM 11.5" rear axle (full floater) and the parking brake on that thing is worthless. The axle seals always seem to seep a bit and then it soaks into the brake pads and then they don't work. I had them redone once and in 6 months the parking brake didn't work anymore.

A disc brake kit with Cadillac brakes with built in parking brakes would be the best option in my opinion.

 

[GreaseDog]

Another thing you might consider is the driveline parking brake found on the rear of a TH475. If you're running a TH400, that would enable you to put standard calipers on the back.

I'm going to be running standard K20 calipers with a High Angle Driveline parking brake on the back of my NP241

 

[usar17]

What prohibits the new model 10.5" full floaters from being used on squares? I know the spring pirchs wouldn't match. What about wheel width? Or why can't the brake mounts be retro fitted to a early model 14 bolts

 

[HotRodPC]

Or you can go with a Mico Lever actuated Park Brake,
http://www.mico.com/products/brake-actuation/brake-locks/lever-lock

Or Mico Electric actuated Park Brake,
http://www.mico.com/products/brake-actuation/brake-locks/electric-activated-lock

You can find these type kits on eBay too and get them cheaper than the suggested retail. You can have them set up to lock your front wheels, your rear wheels, or all 4 of your wheels.
What these systems do is apply the pressure at the master cylinder so it acts as if your foot is on the brake pedal, so this does mean, your brake system has to be in good shape to work. If you apply this brake and your caliper seal is leaking, well eventually you'd lose your brake after the caliper leaked down. So if you had the lock all 4 wheels system, and your rear caliper leaked, then your fronts will still hold or vice versa. If your master cylinder went bad, well then your fuct.

Driveline brake is a good option too.

 

[usar17]

You must be registered for see images attach

Look what I found!!! Adapter plate is made by RightGear. I emailed them inquiring what else needs changed to fully work. Id assume there is something with the hubs matching up with the rotors.

 

[usar17]

Idk if they still make them. But I found a thread on Pirate 4x4 explaining having replica mounting plates made and welding them to the existing ones to accept newer brake system. Waiting to hear back what else needs altered

 

[89Suburban]

Or you can go with a Mico Lever actuated Park Brake,
http://www.mico.com/products/brake-actuation/brake-locks/lever-lock

Or Mico Electric actuated Park Brake,
http://www.mico.com/products/brake-actuation/brake-locks/electric-activated-lock

You can find these type kits on eBay too and get them cheaper than the suggested retail. You can have them set up to lock your front wheels, your rear wheels, or all 4 of your wheels.
What these systems do is apply the pressure at the master cylinder so it acts as if your foot is on the brake pedal, so this does mean, your brake system has to be in good shape to work. If you apply this brake and your caliper seal is leaking, well eventually you'd lose your brake after the caliper leaked down. So if you had the lock all 4 wheels system, and your rear caliper leaked, then your fronts will still hold or vice versa. If your master cylinder went bad, well then your fuct.

Driveline brake is a good option too.

Hydraulic brake locks like that will not pass state inspection here. It has to be mechanical.

 

[usar17]

Ya pa requires mechanical separate from the main system. I'm gonna try and get my hands on the parts from a 01+ and see if I can't weld the plates together

 

[77 K20]

You must be registered for see images attach

Look what I found!!! Adapter plate is made by RightGear. I emailed them inquiring what else needs changed to fully work. Id assume there is something with the hubs matching up with the rotors.

Those look pretty nice- as they have inner shields (dust covers?) the aftermarket kits I have seen just have the bare disc visible.

 

[usar17]

Ya. But they no longer sell them. My thoughts are to take the axle shafts, rotors, calipers, hubs, and caliper mounts from a 2001+ 10.5" axle. Then cut the mount bracket off the axle. That should let me figure out a way to make an adaptor to go from the late model to the early model.

 

[HotRodPC]

Hydraulic brake locks like that will not pass state inspection here. It has to be mechanical.

And there is good reason for that. As stated, if your master cylinder is bad, or your calipers or wheel cylinders leak, then you lose the function.

For a parking brake, all you really need is for one wheel to have the ability to hold the vehicle. but I'd imagine if they inspect for that, you'll have to have 2 wheels. I had a truck one that broke the cable on 1 side. I just tied that side off, and it kept good park brake pedal and all. Just that it only had 1 wheel with the brake on instead of 2.

 

[Konas new ride]

Or you can go with a Mico Lever actuated Park Brake,
http://www.mico.com/products/brake-actuation/brake-locks/lever-lock

Or Mico Electric actuated Park Brake,
http://www.mico.com/products/brake-actuation/brake-locks/electric-activated-lock

You can find these type kits on eBay too and get them cheaper than the suggested retail. You can have them set up to lock your front wheels, your rear wheels, or all 4 of your wheels.
What these systems do is apply the pressure at the master cylinder so it acts as if your foot is on the brake pedal, so this does mean, your brake system has to be in good shape to work. If you apply this brake and your caliper seal is leaking, well eventually you'd lose your brake after the caliper leaked down. So if you had the lock all 4 wheels system, and your rear caliper leaked, then your fronts will still hold or vice versa. If your master cylinder went bad, well then your fuct.

Driveline brake is a good option too.

Lots of states and provences wont pass that as a park brake due to brake fluid.. not a cable or hard line to operate it. It's just a piggy back on the normal brake system.



EDIT.. I didnt read the whole post sorry for the same post as others.

 

[HotRodPC]

Lots of states and provences wont pass that as a park brake due to brake fluid.. not a cable or hard line to operate it. It's just a piggy back on the normal brake system.



EDIT.. I didnt read the whole post sorry for the same post as others.

Ain't no thang. Prolly worth a double mention. It does make perfect sense why they woudln't consider it a safe parking brake. Just do like the old 2x4 go cart method and pull the 2x4 into the wheel for a brake. That'll work. Better yet, you can put a block on the end of the 2x4 and it will hold it.