Milky oil after 1984 K10 305 top end rebuild.

[Raybo135]

Formula for any cylinder volume is as follows:
BORE X BORE X STROKE X .7854 (A CONSTANT), X NUMBER OF CYLINDERS
SO: 3.776 X 3.776 X 3.48 = 49.6184 x .8754 =38.9703 X 8 =311.7626 C.I.

Is it "X .7854" as stated in your formula or "X .8754" in the actual calculation?

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Typo the constant is .7854. Sorry about the confusion!

 

[AlexK10]

Ok, I got the lifters in, rockers adjusted, added oil, primed the oil pump and checked for lubrication at top of pushrods/rockers, and dry fitted the intake without a gasket to check for china wall clearance.

**When I proceeded to install the intake with the felpro .120" gaskets and the right stuff, the intake bolts holes would not line up.

I was battling this for about 10 minutes before deciding to trash the gaskets and get the spare felpro gaskets from the 8510pt1 set which are .060".

Reapplied the right stuff, gaskets and more of the right stuff on the water ports.
Set the intake in and torqued in sequence, cleaned the china wall squeeze out and set the distributor in.

For a thicker gasket I needed oblong intake manifold bolt holes to match and give me some wiggle room.

Anyways when I was moving the battery cable to the starter to reinstall the headers I noticed that the main power cable was melted even though it had a heat sleeve. Cut the bad section off and made a tube (photo) to guide the cable without it touching the header. Test fitted the cable inside. (photo)

Now I have to fix the battery cable, install new terminal etc.

Is there a silicone shielded battery cable available that withstands high heat better that the standard battery cables?

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[AlexK10]

wrong second photo corrected

Notice where the burnt cable was lying against the header tube (different shade)

I'm only test fitting the cable in this photo, The cable was burned because it was against the header before I fabricated the guide tube.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[bucket]

That's a trick little guide tube you made. I normally run the battery cable between the header and block, where automatic trans cooler lines would also run. I think that's where the factory usually ran the cable too.

 

[AlexK10]

Update: didn't want to leave you hanging after the March 2 post.

Well after that installation with the .120 intake gasket crap show I still got milky oil. Decided to take the heads off and get them pressure tested (they passed) also noticed that the head at cyl 6 had porosity where the fire ring of the gasket sits. Apparently the first head surfacing job didn't remove all the pitting from the head surface. With the covid shutdown finding a new machine shop took time. Pressure test and surfacing was completed.

Last Tuesday June 2nd I started the engine up again, timing etc. Temp was getting to 210-215 after a while on idle without the fan shroud. Installed the fan shroud and now it stays below 200 all the time, more like 190-200 at idle.

After a week (today) of testing the oil is still clear and looks new, hence no water yet...

 

[HotRodPC]

Cool, so you think you got it now? All due to a poor resurface job?

 

[AlexK10]

I think I got it now and don't want to imagine having to go through this again. I believe it was a combination of poor initial resurface job and also at some point a leaking intake gasket.

Lost track of what I found each time I disassembled the top end. This is the third time I've installed the heads and about four times the intake.

Been checking the dip stick every day for milk.

If it leaked (or leaks) again I would pull the engine for a full rebuild, bearings, rings etc and do it all out of the truck or sell it at a loss or pour gas all over it and burn it down in a field behind my house .

Too many life projects going on to be messing much longer with this.

 

[Snoots]

Is there a silicone shielded battery cable available that withstands high heat better that the standard battery cables?

Welding cable.