Longer wheel studs

[Ehmer53]

So I’m putting a 10 bolt front axle under my k10 from a 78 k20 with some aluminum rims. The factory wheel studs on the 3/4 ton axle are only stick out about 3/8” with a rim on. I need something about 1/2” longer. What wheel stud do I need? Thanks


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[Frankenchevy]

Most wheel shops will sell you studs and lug nuts and should know the diameter and pitch. My d60/14ff are 9/16 I believe. I’d call America’s/Discount tire.

I bought mine from Costco of all places.

Worst case scenario, you can press out one stud and still drive safely on 7/8 or 5/6 if your acting like a normal person. 3/4 tons are all 8 lug, right?

 

[Colin]

Don't try to use the stock steel rim lug nuts on aluminum rims. They will require longer "acorn" type
lug nuts, especially if the holes in the aluminum rims are countersunk.
You'll have a hard time getting a socket to fit down in the hole. Even a thin wall socket.
Don't ask me how I know.

 

[Ehmer53]

I know it’s 9/16 and yes there’s 16 it’s a 3/4 ton I need longer wheel studs I’ve been looking for a while and can’t find the right length


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[Frankenchevy]

I know it’s 9/16 and yes there’s 16 it’s a 3/4 ton I need longer wheel studs I’ve been looking for a while and can’t find the right length


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You need to press or pound them out with a bfh either way.

What I was suggesting is that you pound one out and take it to the auto parts store or tire shop. You can measure it once it’s out and add a half inch.

 

[Dougnsalem]

You need to press or pound them out with a bfh either way.

What I was suggesting is that you pound one out and take it to the auto parts store or tire shop. You can measure it once it’s out and add a half inch.

What you said made sense to me. I guess you can't find your stud catalog either, to spend the time(free) and look the information up for him.....

 

[Frankenchevy]

If my wife found my stud catalog, I’d have a lot of explaining to do

 

[Frankenchevy]

@Ehmer53 i really do have an extra stud laying around somewhere from when I went disc on my rear axle, but couldn’t find it yesterday. I have stuff spread out between two garages, a shed and a glorified tent of a carport. I’ll be doing some organizing later this evening and if it turns up, I’ll get a measurement for you.

Even then, I wouldn’t be sure the mounting surface of my rotors are the same thickness as yours.

 

[Ehmer53]

@Ehmer53 i really do have an extra stud laying around somewhere from when I went disc on my rear axle, but couldn’t find it yesterday. I have stuff spread out between two garages, a shed and a glorified tent of a carport. I’ll be doing some organizing later this evening and if it turns up, I’ll get a measurement for you.

Even then, I wouldn’t be sure the mounting surface of my rotors are the same thickness as yours.

The studs I have now are just over 2” long I need something about 2.5” long with a .622 knurl


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[Frankenchevy]

Not sure if you came across this tidbit in your research, but a general rule of thumb is for the nut to grab the same measurement of threads as the diameter of the stud. So for a 9/16” stud, you’ll want a minimum of 9/16” of thread engagement.

Mine was 5/8 after going to aluminum wheels. When I put new rotors on in a few months, I’ll shoot for closer to 3/4 just to be safe. Remember to torque your lug nuts. Don’t only rely on an impact or guess work.

 

[BryanC]

I need longer wheel studs for my 2WD 1974 C1500 Suburban. Has anyone used the Baer 6280012 1/2-20 studs? It looks like the shoulder length (.5") on the 6280012 is longer than stock (.313") and I'm concerned that might cause a problem with the rear drums if the shoulder is longer than the width of the axle flange. I haven't had a chance to measure the axle flange yet, but did measure the stud holes on a spare rear drum at .521", which is smaller than the .530" knurl.