Lifted test drive

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jb12

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Hey there. I am thinking about going and taking a look at a 1984 K10. It looks to have about a 4" lift.

This would be my first lifted rigg. Is there anything that I should check out while I'm test driving? I've heard a lot about regearing. How necessary is it to regear on a 4" lift for street driving?

It's got a 5.0L 350 in it...

Thanks!
 

Jimbo166

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Just a piece of advice if its got a 350 it is a 5.7l not a 5.0l
 

89Suburban

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What is your current gear ratio? Re gearing is usually for larger tires.
 

Swims350

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yes lift have nothing to do with regear it's tire height that determines regear or not.

be careful on the highway, changing lanes or sharp curves at speed can cause bad body roll on a lifted truck, tipping over or something along those lines, so just watch it.

Also check for un even tire wear up front, like edges wore and such, could be bad balljoints, or tie rods.

Ball joints are a pain and tie rods are easy.

Then if you really want to get into it, make sure the front brake hoses and the rear is not stretched tight, check e brake cables as well, then of course try the 4x4 if you can.

you can tell somewhat if it needs regeared if it just feels down on power, no get up and go.
 

jb12

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Thank you all for the quick response. I must have been misinformed. I'm pretty sure it is the standard wheels and tires (although I don't think the wheels are chev orig).


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Just a piece of advice if its got a 350 it is a 5.7l not a 5.0l

Interesting. Something I'll definitely have to figure out sooner than later. Current owner sad 350, ran the vin and it lists it as a 5.0 ... Owner says engine has not been rebuilt. Any way to tell from a picture??


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Swims350

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tires look bigger then stock, and wheels are definately wider os more offset so most likely aftermarket.

no way of telling if it's a 305 or 350 without pulling numbers off the engine ot taking off a head.
 

jb12

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tires look bigger then stock, and wheels are definately wider os more offset so most likely aftermarket.

no way of telling if it's a 305 or 350 without pulling numbers off the engine ot taking off a head.

Great to know! Thanks for the info. Does the engine look chev original though?

I am having the guy swing it by the local Chev dealer service center for their mechanic to do a pre-sale inspection tomorrow afternoon. So I should hopefully know more by end-of-day tomorrow!
 

hirschdalechevy

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Well the intake has been changed for sure from the pic and I would also check the frame at the steering box for cracks and those tires are 33's or better for sure as well
 

Swims350

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LOL well it's a chevy egine for sure, and it's original to something.

To that truck, who knows, only pulling numbers would tell.

honestly from what I can tell you are definately new to older trucks, don't expect much, it's old, it's gonna need repairs and it's gonna cost money to do so. It aint gonna be cheap on gas either.

If you want something to learn and build on or play with, buy it.

If you want something cheap or easy on gas, pass it by.

It looks very solid, but this is my rule of thumb.....

it never hurts to have new steering and brake parts, it's almost always the first thing we do to any vehicle we buy, new pads and shoes, drums and rotors turned or replaced, bearings cleaned and repacked or changed, tie rod ends, ball joints etc. changed, then it'll be a long time before you have to worry about it again.

rockauto is a great cheap place to buy parts, but if you are going to have the work done, not sure if they want you to buy parts and bring them in or not.
 

jb12

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LOL well it's a chevy egine for sure, and it's original to something.

To that truck, who knows, only pulling numbers would tell.

honestly from what I can tell you are definately new to older trucks, don't expect much, it's old, it's gonna need repairs and it's gonna cost money to do so. It aint gonna be cheap on gas either.

If you want something to learn and build on or play with, buy it.

If you want something cheap or easy on gas, pass it by.

It looks very solid, but this is my rule of thumb.....

it never hurts to have new steering and brake parts, it's almost always the first thing we do to any vehicle we buy, new pads and shoes, drums and rotors turned or replaced, bearings cleaned and repacked or changed, tie rod ends, ball joints etc. changed, then it'll be a long time before you have to worry about it again.

rockauto is a great cheap place to buy parts, but if you are going to have the work done, not sure if they want you to buy parts and bring them in or not.


You are correct. I am very new to the older riggs! I do have a bit of cash saved up for planned expenses, but no clue what to expect. Should probably make sure it's not out of my range and I'm not getting in too deep. Do you have a ballpark of what one would expect to spend on doing the stuff you mentioned (I'd probably end up taking it to my current chev service guy)?
 

Swims350

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wow no clue, I do all my own work.

labor aint cheap, and a chevy dealer is even more.

I paid like $100 for some front end rebuild kits from rockauto, 4 ball joints, 4 tie rod ends, adjuster sleeves etc.

Those were not solid axle ball joints and setups though, they use less parts in some cases but are much harder to do, like ball joints.

brakes are like $30 a rotor, sometimes more or less, calipers $25 or so a piece, hoses like $10-20 each, wheel cylinders $10-20, pads and shoe sets like $25 and up, drums maybe $40 or so, having them machined is cheaper but they may be too thin or warped/out of round. That means they have to be replaced.

labor is like $50-100 an hour, but honestly having someone else do it, either have it all done at once, or just fix things as needed, the inspection will tell you if anything needs changed.
 

8T6K5

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Preyy much everything Swims said and about the steering box. Bring a flash light, dont be afraid to crawl under it.

Ask the owner about the VIN-motor discrepancy....print out a VIN decoder from LMC and bring with you.

Look in the glove box for an RPO code sheet....if its still there...will have lots of good info.

Make sure you drive it in 4WD too.
 

jb12

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Awesome thanks! I actually asked the seller about it and he said:

"I was told it is a 350. But it looks newer, so maybe an upgrade?"

So it sounds like he does not know. We'll see what the mechanics say about her and go from there!


I will definitely bring a flashlight and check out the frame by the steering box. Is the spot on the frame visible when the truck is up on a lift? The mechanic says he inspects the frame for cracks (but only visible spots).

Thanks again guys. I envy all of your knowledge. Excited and looking forward to learning much of this myself soon.
 

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