Less Exhaust Pressure on one side of engine

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Moonsaber

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I noticed last night that I have noticably less pressure on my left hand exhaust over my right hand exhaust. This is the same side my O2 sensor is installed on.

Truck is an 87 with TBI, headers.

I still haven't replaced the spark plugs, so that is up this weekend.

The only other thing I guess that could be (and not be catastophic) is a bad Cat Conv.

Here's hoping that all my woes are due to some bad plugs.
 

350runner

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Man I hate cats... they're always in the way blocking something.

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

Moonsaber

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Well, the O2 is showing a trouble in the ODB, but it is off and on. I was going to change the O2, but maybe it is a sign of bad plugs, or a bad Cat.

My thoughts are plugs first.
 

MadOgre

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Ya cats implode and plug up. Not to mention they restrict flow a lot so that's why they are usually the first thing to get cut off unless of course you have emissions testing
 

Moonsaber

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Ya cats implode and plug up. Not to mention they restrict flow a lot so that's why they are usually the first thing to get cut off unless of course you have emissions testing

MadO - I live in Alabama, we don't even have vehicle inspections. I just wish I knew how to weld well enough to do that. I don't suppose there is some kind of kit I can use to join without welding?
 

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MadO - I live in Alabama, we don't even have vehicle inspections. I just wish I knew how to weld well enough to do that. I don't suppose there is some kind of kit I can use to join without welding?

Up here we got Crappy tire (Canadian Tire) and you can get pre bent or straight pieces of aluminized pipe. Just get some pieces and some clamps and cut those CATS out. The pieces come with one end flared to slide over top of the other. You can get a flare tool to for $20 and flare your own straight pieces.
 

chengny

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FWIW - here is GM's procedure to check for an exhaust restriction:




EXHAUST SYSTEM RESTRICTION CHECK

MODELS W/AIR INJECTION

Run engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then stop engine.
Disconnect and remove check valve from air injection tube or manifold.
Connect suitable pressure gauge to nipple from propane enrichment tool J-26911 or equivalent, then insert nipple into injection tube opening, Fig. 32.
Start engine and run at 2500 RPM while observing gauge.
If gauge reading exceeds 2-3/4 psi, inspect entire exhaust system for collapsed pipes, heat distress or possible internal muffler failure.
If all other components are satisfactory, replace catalytic converter.


MODELS WITHOUT AIR INJECTION

Run engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then stop engine.
Connect suitable vacuum gauge to any convenient port to direct intake manifold vacuum.
Disconnect EGR solenoid electrical connector, if equipped, or reroute hoses as needed to connect EGR valve directly to vacuum source, bypassing any switches or solenoids.
Run engine at 1000 RPM and record vacuum reading.
Slowly increase engine speed to 2500 RPM and record vacuum reading at a steady 2500 RPM.
If vacuum reading at 2500 RPM decreases more than 3 inches Hg from reading at 1000 RPM, check for exhaust restrictions as outlined for models with air injection.
If no restrictions are found, repeat check with exhaust pipe(s) disconnected from manifold(s).
If vacuum readings still differ by more than 3 inches Hg, check valve timing. On models without air injection or EGR, connect suitable vacuum gauge to intake manifold vacuum, and observe gauge with engine idling at normal operating temperature. If gauge reading regularly drops to zero, check exhaust system for restrictions and repair as needed.
 

Green79Scottsdale

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What is your actual exhaust set-up? I don't know the what they were like from the factory, or how yours is now, so this is a shot in the dark. If the exhaust merges into a single cat., then splits back into two, then that very well may be your answer. Seems like the exhaust usually comes together on the passenger (right) side of the vehicle. If yours does this, the exhaust pulses will continue on the path of least resistance, in your case the right side tailpipe. You will get some going to the left side, but it will be greatly reduced when compared to the right side, which is what you are experiencing. Once again, a shot in the dark, but plausible.
 

Moonsaber

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thanks everyone for the help.

My exhaust setup is:

Hedmann Headers.. to Cat (per side) then muffler, then tailpipe.

Maybe it was my imagination, but I fought the headers (and I won) and got the spark plugs changed out, turned out they were autolites and all were rusty, many were fouled.. particularly on the left hand side. Everything seems better now, exhaust seems even per my hand by tailpipe (read: innacurate) method.

My O2 sensor light hasn't even come on.... Might have just been bad plugs, I can hope right?

didn't drive it in to work today (50 mile round trip) because this is Alabama, this is Summer, and I had to take off my AC compressor to change out my valve cover gaskets. I need help getting the belt tighter, squeels like a guinea pig headed for slaughter (A delicacy in most Peruvian BBQ joints).
 

350runner

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Any belt you need. ..buy the good continental/ good year belts. they are awesome and don't stretch like the others. plus they like never wear out and are better at resisting slipping and oil. i get mine from rock auto.



Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

Moonsaber

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Any belt you need. ..buy the good continental/ good year belts. they are awesome and don't stretch like the others. plus they like never wear out and are better at resisting slipping and oil. i get mine from rock auto.



Sent from the dust in front of you!

Rock Auto for the win, I think. I will try that if I can't get it tight enough. It's fine until the AC comes on.. then.. GUINEA PIG!

SQUEEEEEE SQUEEEEEE!
 

350runner

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trust me on this one. check out them belts they are cut different and made better quality wise. there won't be any slipping or belt jumping

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

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