leaking power steering return hose

[Raider L]

As the title implies my power steering return hose is leaking where it screws into the top of the sector. What the hell?? And I've already put a wrench on it and it's tight. I don't want to over tighten it so I was going to take it loose and look at the end that goes into the sector to see what I can see. I can't imagine what would cause the return line to leak at the sector. It doesn't make any sense.
Should I put some teflon tape on the nut and put it back in? I have a whole set of "line wrenches". Why would it leak? I don't get it. It's been on that sector for a very long time and the hose is in good shape, the hoses have both been replaced recently?, like less than ten years ago? And I don't tow nor do I drive over rough roads...ever. So I can't figure it out. And I need to know so it won't happen again. So if anyone can give me some insight I would appreciate it.

Advice please.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

What year? If it's an o-ring fitting, the o-ring could be done.

 

[Raider L]

It's my '74 and I guess it's a Saginaw power steering sector. Gee, I guess it would be easy enough to take the line loose and look what is the problem. It's just that it's never leaked, especially on the return line. I replaced the power line some years ago and it's still fine. It's not dripping but there is a little wetness around the nut and a little on the top of the sector housing around the nut, and yes I have loosened the line and retightened it to no avail.. I've wiped it dry and a couple of days later it's wet again. So it's coming out where, I thought, there's no pressure. I have packs of all kinds of 'o" rings and I'm sure I'd find one in those. But more importantly, do I need a certain kind of "o" ring that's resistant to power steering fluid? I know some "o" rings won't stand up to certain types of fluids, is power steering one of them?

I just took a close look at the pictures in the factory maint. manual and I didn't see any "o" rings. I know the end of the line fits down into a reverse flare in the bottom of the hole where the end of the line goes. So that kind, I don't believe needs an "o" ring. The flare seals the line fitting.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

It's my '74 and I guess it's a Saginaw power steering sector. Gee, I guess it would be easy enough to take the line loose and look what is the problem. It's just that it's never leaked, especially on the return line. I replaced the power line some years ago and it's still fine. It's not dripping but there is a little wetness around the nut and a little on the top of the sector housing around the nut, and yes I have loosened the line and retightened it to no avail.. I've wiped it dry and a couple of days later it's wet again. So it's coming out where, I thought, there's no pressure. I have packs of all kinds of 'o" rings and I'm sure I'd find one in those. But more importantly, do I need a certain kind of "o" ring that's resistant to power steering fluid? I know some "o" rings won't stand up to certain types of fluids, is power steering one of them?

I just took a close look at the pictures in the factory maint. manual and I didn't see any "o" rings. I know the end of the line fits down into a reverse flare in the bottom of the hole where the end of the line goes. So that kind, I don't believe needs an "o" ring. The flare seals the line fitting.

Yep there is the flare style and the o-ring style, I'd say pull it out and inspect the flare surfaces for any fine nicks or imperfections, maybe even the line has a pinhole on the fitting end. I wouldn't hesitate to put a little more umph in tightening it up, those threads are pretty strong.

 

[Allan Abley]

it is more than likely the crimp of the fitting on the line. Replace it and get over it.

 

[Rusty Nail]

 

[AuroraGirl]

I see you rusty…

Unlike the pictures which are noticeably ABSENT

MY vote is show us what is you speak of


My second vote is crimp connection as well, they are notoriously ****** from factory and still are to this day. Cut the crimp, inspect the hose, if the hose is okay, flare the end of the metal line, slide hose over the flare, clamp. If new hose was desired. You can get the gaiter hose and 2 fuel injection clamps and make em opposite eachother or you can get regular low pressure trans/ps line and use the flare and a clamp. I do recommend a fuel injection clamp most of the time period because the worm gear is gonna bite into the hose losing clamping force with age and the hose is probably a little aged as it is. The fuel injection hose clamp will at least provide a solid surface to push on around the diameter instead of a cheese grater.


Think, snow shoes vs those fins for swimming. Now apply a constant pressure on top a slowly degrading and squishy surface. Now you got some going past the snow shoe but the fin just makes an impression

 

[SquareRoot]

LS swap will solve all your problems.

 

[Rusty Nail]

I see you rusty…

Unlike the pictures which are noticeably ABSENT

MY vote is show us what is you speak of


My second vote is crimp connection as well, they are notoriously ****** from factory and still are to this day. Cut the crimp, inspect the hose, if the hose is okay, flare the end of the metal line, slide hose over the flare, clamp. If new hose was desired. You can get the gaiter hose and 2 fuel injection clamps and make em opposite eachother or you can get regular low pressure trans/ps line and use the flare and a clamp. I do recommend a fuel injection clamp most of the time period because the worm gear is gonna bite into the hose losing clamping force with age and the hose is probably a little aged as it is. The fuel injection hose clamp will at least provide a solid surface to push on around the diameter instead of a cheese grater.


Think, snow shoes vs those fins for swimming. Now apply a constant pressure on top a slowly degrading and squishy surface. Now you got some going past the snow shoe but the fin just makes an impression

I think that new guy is bein a dick.. That was a ****** thing to say.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I think that new guy is bein a dick.. That was a ****** thing to say.

Rusty when did you become so soft

I mean that seriously, but yeah he was kinda a dick withthe “get over it” but I feel the OP will weather that ok. But I do think the crimp is a good thing to look at

an LS SWap won’t fix a bad crimp connection btw @SquareRoot

 

[Turbo4whl]

Yep there is the flare style and the o-ring style, I'd say pull it out and inspect the flare surfaces for any fine nicks or imperfections, maybe even the line has a pinhole on the fitting end. I wouldn't hesitate to put a little more umph in tightening it up, those threads are pretty strong.

Like Mason stated, inspect the tube flare. Common fail is the flare will crack from years of vibration. Tightening more may seal a slight imperfection, but tightening a cracked flare will only make it leak worse.

 

[Octane]

it is more than likely the crimp of the fitting on the line. Replace it and get over it.

I'd just sell the truck...right?

 

[AuroraGirl]

I'd just sell the truck...right?

Clearly the only resort. This defective design may just kill him!
Or things wear amd get old lol

 

[Raider L]

@Turbo4whl,

That's the only thing I could think it could be is after so many years the vibration has cracked it down there. I do have a flare tool that will do all kinds of flares. I just have to get the instruction sheet out and practice making a double flare on some scrap tubing, then like @AuroraGirl said, make a piece of tube and put the hose back on it and clamp it. Then watch it. If it's good then maybe it'll last for another 25 years! That's how long that line has been on there, and I'm all upset about it leaking??

 

[Rusty Nail]

That's my favorite.

General sold SIXTEEN MILLION trucks - with a bad designed steering. Yep! That's the only possible solution.