Key stuck in ignition

[gerhed]

So, I replaced the temp and voltmeter in the dash, and in the process, I removed the two nuts holding the steering column in place under the dash, allowing me a little more wiggle room to take out the dash cover. Now I can't turn the key back far enough to remove it from the ignition. Any idea what I've done and what I will have to do to fix this?

 

[Goldie Driver]

So, I replaced the temp and voltmeter in the dash, and in the process, I removed the two nuts holding the steering column in place under the dash, allowing me a little more wiggle room to take out the dash cover. Now I can't turn the key back far enough to remove it from the ignition. Any idea what I've done and what I will have to do to fix this?

As a guess, you may have the shift bowl in a bind. Try hanging the column back in place and moving the shifter towards the park position.

 

[gerhed]

As a guess, you may have the shift bowl in a bind. Try hanging the column back in place and moving the shifter towards the park position.

It's a manual transmission.

 

[Radiohead]

The pushrod for the ignition switch is bound up or damaged perhaps?

 

[Goldie Driver]

It's a manual transmission.

Does it have a key release lever? If so, can you push it down ?

I think that is the direction the lever goes for release ...

 

[gerhed]

Does it have a key release lever? If so, can you push it down ?

I think that is the direction the lever goes for release ...

Yeah, it has the lever, and it still will not trim back far enough to allow the key to be removed.

 

[gerhed]

I'm in the process of pulling the ignition switch out now. Headed to the parts store in a minute for the steering lock depressor thingy.

 

[gerhed]

Well folks, for anybody interested, it was this mechanism in the column.

 

[gerhed]

It was just stuck. Took it all apart and I'm cleaning and lubricating everything. It has some ancient grease on it that is far from lubricating. It's more like clay or something. Anywho, lotta stuff to wrestle with just to lube up some pieces, but, this is the life we have chosen, lol.

 

[gerhed]

On a side note, not associated with ignitions or electrical, I found light through the floor. Oh well, looks like learning a little bodywork is in the cards.

 

[gerhed]

I'm not putting the wheel lock back in. Everything works great until that goes in. No amount of lube seems to make it happy, and honestly, I don't need the wheel lock anyway. We don't even lock our doors out here, lol.

 

[Radiohead]

I ran into the wheel lock hub thingie rubbing on the column. Determined that the thing was bent, like too much oomph with the lock plate tool. When flattened out, all was happy again. That starter switch rack and pinion thing is finicky too. Almost like things were built with some idea of fit tolerances, lol.

 

[gerhed]

I couldn't do it. I pulled it back apart this morning, fiddled with that steering wheel lock, wire brushing and cleaning/lubing the barrel it rides in until it finally started working right, not great, but good enough.

 

[gerhed]

Done, all back together exactly like it came apart. I'm probably gonna replace the entire steering column when we start renewing this truck, but for now, it has a functional steering wheel. Brakes and transfer case next. Needs to be reliable enough for farm work and running to the store for fuel.

 

[Radiohead]

Here's something else to consider. There's that goofy spring (on the columns I've seen) that catches maximum tension on the lock pin itself off the ignition cylinder drive position. If that spring is fukkurd up, it will mess with deployment of that lock pin. If yours is intact and attached properly, no issue. I only bring it up because with the corrosion issue you described, if there's friction enough to overcome that spring power to move the pin, there's the low but not zero chance the pin will remain engaged to the lock plate. Leaving you with a truck that will start and run like it always did, but with a steering wheel leaving you with only one track to go down.