K20 LV3 TR6060 NP241

[AuroraGirl]

As the gearing is now, I'll try the 4wd, but once I start swapping rear gearing, I'll probably leave it in 2wd so I'm not spending trial and error money on two axles. I'm not planning on using the 4wd much anyway, mostly for the muddy lease roads/fields and snow

make sure to put a note on it you cant mistake and leave the hubs unlocked lol

 

[EcoK20]

make sure to put a note on it you cant mistake and leave the hubs unlocked lol

Good chance I'll even go as far as pulling the front drive shaft.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Good chance I'll even go as far as pulling the front drive shaft.

well thats probably not needed but ifyou wanted to use the time to do u joints off the truck then you can do that. i would just make sure you in no mistakeable way scribe/mark the phasing so that you dont have to think extra about it if that ends up being a little bit

 

[Grit dog]

As the gearing is now, I'll try the 4wd, but once I start swapping rear gearing, I'll probably leave it in 2wd so I'm not spending trial and error money on two axles. I'm not planning on using the 4wd much anyway, mostly for the muddy lease roads/fields and snow

There's no trial and error needed. You already know how to calc rpms vs speed with different gear ratios. Settle in on your tire size and then pick a gear ratio. 4.10s or 4.56s are the 2 options that will give you the best performance, just depends how fast you drive it on the highway and where you want the rpms to land in 6th gear at your top cruising speed.

 

[TotalyHucked]

Very interesting build! Haven't seen anyone use one of the newer V6s yet or a TR6060 in a 4x4. Looking forward to hearing how well it works

 

[EcoK20]

A little update. I fired off the engine in the truck this last weekend. Progress really stalled at the height on the summer. I've gotten the '87+ fuel system installed and wired, the engine/trans installed (No spacer was needed on the transfer case/rear trans mount), and the harness connected up. My next hurdle is trying to bleed the concentric internal slave cylinder. I'm using the hydraulic master from a late model hydraulic sm465. I've read conflicting information on whether that master will have sufficient bore and stroke to functionally work with a tr6060 slave, but they are a bear to bleed, so I'll find out eventually. The fuel switch, though it looks the same, requires modification of the mounting hole in the dash. I used another truck to make a template and used some files until it fit well. I had an issue with one of the fuel tank selector switches where it looked like a hole on one of the spades was not fully knocked out, so I had to sand the "bump" off of it. I spent more time than I expected converting the front end to a '74 style. I had to swap the center supports, and then remove the existing mounts on the sides and "graft' (small sheet metal screws) the sheet metal from the donor core support.

 

[EcoK20]

The driveshaft needed 8" removed from it. My modification should be good enough to get me to a shop to have a highway safe driveshaft made when the time is right

 

[EcoK20]

I used a core shifter with their "f" length fulcrum. So far, it seems to place the shifter in the right place and the shifting distances seem appropriate. I'll know more once I can drive it around. I had a stick #0295 from another shifter base laying around, and it also seems to fit well. I tried bleeding the clutch before installing it but that didn't seem to be enough. I had to buy a flare to AN fitting to use the hose I ran since the OEM slave has a hardline on it for it's intended OEM use, and the fitting bottomed out on the hex portion before sealing on the flare portion so I had to turn that shoulder down. Because I'm using an ICT bellhousing spacer, I turned out a slave cylinder spacer to restore the OEM slave to clutch distance.

 

[EcoK20]

And surprisingly, one of my most significant weight savings was swapping the rear bumper saving me about 180#. If anyone wants a heavy "Quic-Cush'n" bumper let me know as my only plans for it are for scrap