Just bought this truck and the starter is grinding

[Honky Kong jr]

That's what I was figuring. Much bigger job than I was anticipating or looking to do with the little knowledge/experience I have but I'm sure I can get through it.

I’ve never pulled a 203 transfer case or a 205 which I’m assuming you have one of them being a 74. I know they are heavy. And a manual trans is a bit weighty as well. I’d be separating them.

 

[Dougnsalem]

Yeah, I'd do what Honkey Kong said. First, if the starter was loose, you may want to try getting the correct size bolts. Who knows what they put in there. Shouldn't ever need nuts on the bolts. Never know, it could work, or at least delay the flywheel r&r....

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Starter bolts have a cross hatch towards the head. Just so you know.

 

[RustyPile]

I’ve never pulled a 203 transfer case or a 205 which I’m assuming you have one of them being a 74. I know they are heavy. And a manual trans is a bit weighty as well. I’d be separating them.

If it's a standard transmission, yeah you'll have to pull the transmission.. If it's an automatic, you won't.. Remove the drive shafts and plug the output "holes" with something to prevent fluid loss.. Remove the bolts attaching the flywheel to the torque converter. Support the transmission near it's balance point with a floor jack or something suitable that will roll across the floor a few inches.. Remove the bolts holding the cross member to the frame.. Remove the bolt on each side at the bottom of the bell housing. Replace them with bolts that are about 5 inches long. Remove the remaining bell housing bolts and slide the transmission back far enough to reach the crankshaft flange bolts. Using a long box end wrench and a hammer, remove the bolts attaching the flywheel to the crankshaft.. Those long bolts will support the transmission well enough to allow replacement of the flywheel. Loctight the flywheel bolt threads and use a flywheel turning tool to lock the flywheel while tightening the bolts.

Use the proper length starter bolts, no need for "nuts, washers, etc." to take up the slack...

 

[Honky Kong jr]

If it's a standard transmission, yeah you'll have to pull the transmission.. If it's an automatic, you won't.. Remove the drive shafts and plug the output "holes" with something to prevent fluid loss.. Remove the bolts attaching the flywheel to the torque converter. Support the transmission near it's balance point with a floor jack or something suitable that will roll across the floor a few inches.. Remove the bolts holding the cross member to the frame.. Remove the bolt on each side at the bottom of the bell housing. Replace them with bolts that are about 5 inches long. Remove the remaining bell housing bolts and slide the transmission back far enough to reach the crankshaft flange bolts. Using a long box end wrench and a hammer, remove the bolts attaching the flywheel to the crankshaft.. Those long bolts will support the transmission well enough to allow replacement of the flywheel. Loctight the flywheel bolt threads and use a flywheel turning tool to lock the flywheel while tightening the bolts.

Use the proper length starter bolts, no need for "nuts, washers, etc." to take up the slack...

Correct I just assumed it was manual as he keeps saying flywheel. If it’s auto then slide her back.

 

[RustyPile]

Correct I just assumed it was manual as he keeps saying flywheel. If it’s auto then slide her back.

In your defense, I don't believe the OP stated which...

 

[Honky Kong jr]

In your defense, I don't believe the OP stated which...

I just see flywheel = manual flexplate =automatic

 

[78C10BigTen]

I just see flywheel = manual flexplate =automatic

Always gotta be politically correct lol just like motor and engine lol

 

[Dougnsalem]

I missed this....

"Seller put in a new gear reductionstarter."

So it's got a mini starter in it. That could explain the too long bolts.

 

[derick417]

Correct I just assumed it was manual as he keeps saying flywheel. If it’s auto then slide her back.

Sorry, it's an automatic, so it's a flex plate. I've heard both terms, didn't realize the distinction between them.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Always gotta be politically correct lol just like motor and engine lol

It’s how I was thought man.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Sorry, it's an automatic, so it's a flex plate. I've heard both terms, didn't realize the distinction between them.

It’s all good, yeah you can slide the trans and transfer case back. It’s just a balancing act.

 

[Snoots]

Always gotta be politically correct lol just like motor and engine lol

Shiite! You had to bring up that!
DETAILS DETAILS DETAILS !!!
My apologies. I think PC belongs on the Rant Thread. Don't get me started. I know you were joking.

Take 1 (one) bolt out of the starter and push a wire in the hole. Mark it. Put that bolt back in and remove the other. Repeat the process. Buy 2 (two) new bolts and begin the starter alignment process. THAT'S the cheep way out. Follow RustyPiles' instructions and replace the flexplate. If at all possible, use new ARP bolts in the flexplate.
I had to do mine because the PO didn't reinstall the nose support on the starter (not a mini-starter).

 

[Dougnsalem]

I had nothing but problems when I bought my truck many years ago. OP left it in a similar condition that derick147 is going through. I finally ended up replacing everything, and going back to an OE type starter. Cables, starter, flexplate, bolts.... Made a support bracket for the end of the starter, since it was MIA. Only then, did my starter issues go away.

SO, have you guys had much luck with the mini starters? That was my only time having one, and it wasn't good. Just wondering for the future....

 

[RustyPile]

It’s how I was thought man.

I was taught the same way.. But from having to deal with dumb parts counter people bringing out all sorts of wrong parts (flex hose, flex handle wrench, flex blade fan, etc.) when "flex plate" was specified, I started using the term "automatic flywheel"..