Is this the engine?!? Did I find the one?

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HotRodPC

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That was a really good read. Do you think it would be worth switching away from Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil to a racing oil for everyday use?
I would say NO. Keep using the Mobil 1. So long as the cam is broke in properly, with the better quality of cams as mentioned, full synthetic should be just fine.

BTW, it wasn't ONLY poor quality cams that went bad. The problem came about when the EPA changed formulation requirements and taking things out like zinc of engine oils.
 

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I get talked into stuff pretty easy lol. I kept seeing people talk about how flat tappet came aren't very durable compared to roller cams. Wouldn't a good comp cams flat tappet camshaft be just as good if not better than the OEM one that came in my engine from the factory?

I don't want to invest way more money than I need to, especially not for the first engine I ever put in this truck.

I should still go with vortec heads on an older 350 block right? I keep reading that the HP increase is huge for the vortec heads compared to my old cast iron factory ones.
Eric, you can do whatever you want to your truck. Not disrespecting anyone else's opinion but, guys try to wring out all the hp they can to compare to modern engines. A period correct 350 will propel your truck just fine. A good tune, good flowing exhaust, I think you will be happy with the budget you have. If you want Vortex heads go for it, but you don't have to.
 

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i would not use mobil 1 or any other modern oil synthetic or regular without using an additive designed for flat tappets. there are oils on the market designed for flat tappets but they come with a hefty price tag. my engine builder recommends rotella. i see rotella now comes in a formula for gas engines. i add the additive as well.
 

HotRodPC

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I've been using full synthetic in my flat tappet engines for years. Also use a K&N or Mobil 1 oil filter and don't change my oil for 10,000 miles or 1 year whichever comes first. No problems and my oil is still golden when I do change it the engines are so clean. I give my old dark gold old oil to my bro and he burns it in his oil burner instead of spending $3-$4 a quart just to burn it. He don't drive it much now but usually burnt a quart a week.
 

HotRodPC

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I'll add though, if I was to be going with a new cam. I'd follow the written break in proecdure with the proper addative for sure, and NOT synthetic oil. I'd run that for 1000 miles. Change the oil and run the additive AGAIN for 3000 miles. Change the oil, run the additive again for 3000-5000 and then I'd change it to Full Synthetic and the Mobil 1 or K&N Oil Filter and do the 10,000 mile oil changes. After 7000 miles or so I'd feel pretty confident the cam and lifters are well broke in by then.

Rotella is not a bad option though. It was one of the last to have the Zinc conent of any kind left in it. How true, I won't swear to it, but I was told Rotella was losing the Zinc too because of pressure put on them by the EPA.
 

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