Is a 85 700r4 ok?

[CorvairGeek]

No, not at all. Shifts perfectly, doesn’t leak, fluid maintains normal color. The torque converter lockup can be screwy when there are drastic temperature changes, usually in the spring and later fall, but I don’t count that. @CorvairGeek is in the same boat. He’s probably in the mid-low 270s, unrebuilt, and that’s a 1984 model 700. I never expected it to make 300K, but I expect it to breeze by that now so we’ll see what things are like at 325K.

I'm now at 289K on a very early '84 that I bought new when I was 20 years old. It has always thrown off very little clutch material in the 1/2 dozen times I've had the pan down.
Lost the converter lock up a few years ago, and that typically killed the very early transmissions (I think it was fixed by late '84 or '85) because they would overheat the TC (says so in my early Hydramatic manual). Ended up being a worn brake switch that would still carry voltage but not current!
Dexron VI did fix the mild 2-3 shift flare (low ambient temp outside, before engine is warm) that it had since about 50K miles.
I don't believe there were any significant fixes in production when mine was assembled no later than Oct. '83.

The OP still didn't get what he though he paid for.

 

[bedwards]

When/what were the fixes? I mean, I'm sure they were all along. I have a 5/85 build and so far has been fine. I have done a pan drop 3 times since I got it with little if any clutch material in the pan.

 

[Matt69olds]

The transmissions with the St Louis Arc cast into the case have a auxiliary valve body. It has an accumulator that cushions the forward clutch to eliminate the annoying clunk that people complained about when shifting into drive. It also has circuitry to bypass the accumulator when your on the throttle and shift into gear (big no no!).

There are tons or revisions and changes made to the 4L60/700 trans. There is an entire book printed by ATSG that lists the different models, what is compatible, what part combinations will work, check ball locations, production changes, common failure causes and fixes, etc. it’s pretty through.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I'm now at 289K on a very early '84 that I bought new when I was 20 years old. It has always thrown off very little clutch material in the 1/2 dozen times I've had the pan down.
Lost the converter lock up a few years ago, and that typically killed the very early transmissions (I think it was fixed by late '84 or '85) because they would overheat the TC (says so in my early Hydramatic manual). Ended up being a worn brake switch that would still carry voltage but not current!
Dexron VI did fix the mild 2-3 shift flare (low ambient temp outside, before engine is warm) that it had since about 50K miles.
I don't believe there were any significant fixes in production when mine was assembled no later than Oct. '83.

The OP still didn't get what he though he paid for.

Jeez. I had more miles than you for a little bit; you must have just passed me, but I didn’t drive the old gal much this summer, but it was all I drove this past winter and spring. I guess it goes like that when you have multiple rides. So you just checked the amperage on the switch, and it was no good? Is this on one of the service manual diagrams, or did you think of that on your own?

Weird, my 440-T4 has a cold shift flare. It’s 1-2 or 2-3, very hard for me to tell. I’m at 208K in that one, but Dex VI did not fix it. The 700s are good in that regard. The Jimmy’s has like 185K miles so just getting broken in.

 

[CorvairGeek]

Drove it to work today, actually only at 288K miles.
I actually took the long way there troubleshooting to find the switch, I should have been more perceptive. I had seen some odd resistances and voltages, so I assumed (you know what happens) the TCC harness in the transmission was damaged. I even went to the trouble to put an LED on the ALDL connector to verify the ECM was consistently commanding lock up. Rock Auto had a close out on the TCC harness and solenoid (under $10, IIRC), so I went ahead and changed it. Due for fluid and filter anyway. Since it still didn't work, I looked more at the brake switch. That is when I actually found it was varying resistances and worn out. The 12 volts would vary all over the place with a load on the switch.

 

[emoze]

interesting thread -

 

[motohunter4]

I'm going to give it a try. I can't find anything worth a damn locally, and the yard I bought it from is guaranteeing this one is solid. Looks good, I will update later on. All the shops around here quoted me $1900+. I get the beach tax here. I already have the busted transmission out. I will probably tear down down the line to see the carnage.

Sent from my SM-A205U using Tapatalk

 

[mmerlinn]

Make sure the case has the arch like in the pic with the 4l60e. if you see a connector plug like in the pic, dont buy it. A 700r4 has a kick down cable.

NOT all aux 700s have the St Louis Arch. Cases with casting numbers 8675369 (91-92) and 8673598 (93) do NOT have the arch.

 

[Vbb199]

Wow, for real? You've got 288,000 miles on a 700r4 and it hasn't **** the bed yet??? Knock of wood right now !!! For real !!! And it's an 85 model at that???

Mine lasted 332k, and its last 30k miles was behind a 330 horse small block.

3rd and 4th finally gave up after many many heavy tows and abuse.

Im no longer a skeptic like i once was of a 700r4.

Why? Because my past experiences were with 82-86 700r4s.

Throw it away man!

Get a 88 and up!

 

[RecklessWOT]

No, not at all. Shifts perfectly, doesn’t leak, fluid maintains normal color. The torque converter lockup can be screwy when there are drastic temperature changes, usually in the spring and later fall, but I don’t count that. @CorvairGeek is in the same boat. He’s probably in the mid-low 270s, unrebuilt, and that’s a 1984 model 700. I never expected it to make 300K, but I expect it to breeze by that now so we’ll see what things are like at 325K.

My '87 has 170k-ish on it (if not more, speedo reads low because tires) and has been abused its whole life. Original owner used it as a tow rig for about 90k miles, 2nd owner was a sheetrocker that would stack the thing up to the headliner with weight and used it that way for about 30k miles all city driving, then I got my hands on it, put larger tires on it and drove like a bastard (see username) for 50k miles or so, at least 3k of those miles involved towing car trailers. Done plenty of burnouts, miles long traffic jams while commuting, high speed rips down the highway, heavy footed driving through backwoods roads, it still works perfectly, actually the 350 is what let go first. When I put a new engine in it I'm keeping the 700. It does have an aftermarket trans cooler and always had regular fluid changes for however much that helped

 

[Doppleganger]

Local trans shop (good rep) said he used an 86 700r4 in his brothers Vette that he races in the summer and DD's on nice days year round. Said its 7 yrs old and still going. Also told me that he can use 4l60 parts from up to 2008 in them. ?! Dunno. fwiw, I had a dyno'd 477hp 406 in front of my 86 700r4 (4wd) years ago that a shop did a shift kit and something with upgraded planetary gears (?! - dont remember exact) and never had a lick of trouble with it - towed, pulled, etc. I could almost fishtail that thing it had so much torque.

I would kill to do the 4l80 thing but with cores, harnesses and controllers all stupid $, they're too steep for me at the moment.

 

[Nasty-LSX]

NOT all aux 700s have the St Louis Arch. Cases with casting numbers 8675369 (91-92) and 8673598 (93) do NOT have the arch.

Never even heard of that. Never even seen that year without the arch. I wonder the purpose for GM to do that. I have only pulled them from camaros, trans am, and trucks, Maybe that was done for G-bodies and others. Thanks for the info.

 

[Nasty-LSX]

Also told me that he can use 4l60 parts from up to 2008 in them.

Yes its true, and the 4L60E can be made to handle 1000HP now. All upgraded of course. There are still alot of non believer's but you can do your own research. Everyone runs for the 4l80e cause its all the hype.

 

[Matt69olds]

In my opinion, if your 4L60 build needs more than the premium friction materials, upgrades drive shell, etc, then your time and money ahead to do the 4L80.

You can install every aftermarket upgraded part made into a 4L60, and it would still be weaker than a stock 4L80 with a TransGo shift kit. The 700 started out in 1982, it’s low first gear was intended to help weezing underpowered 4 and 6 cylinder engines get moving. If you look at the components of the trans, it’s pretty obvious. Some of the parts were adapted from the TH350 trans, but the unique parts are stamped steel and aluminum. The biggest weak link is the input housing. The input shaft is pressed into the aluminum input housing. In really heavy duty use, the shaft has been know to tear out of the housing. There are aftermarket band aid fixes like reinforcements sleeves, but to use those require smaller pistons. Smaller pistons, less clamping force.

Unless you just can’t fit a 4L80 in the chassis your working with, there is no point in spending big bucks for a 4L60 that will eventually fail behind a stout engine. Use the money that would go to all the fancy upgrades and buy the trans controller.

 

[HotRodPC]

In my opinion, if your 4L60 build needs more than the premium friction materials, upgrades drive shell, etc, then your time and money ahead to do the 4L80.

You can install every aftermarket upgraded part made into a 4L60, and it would still be weaker than a stock 4L80 with a TransGo shift kit. The 700 started out in 1982, it’s low first gear was intended to help weezing underpowered 4 and 6 cylinder engines get moving. If you look at the components of the trans, it’s pretty obvious. Some of the parts were adapted from the TH350 trans, but the unique parts are stamped steel and aluminum. The biggest weak link is the input housing. The input shaft is pressed into the aluminum input housing. In really heavy duty use, the shaft has been know to tear out of the housing. There are aftermarket band aid fixes like reinforcements sleeves, but to use those require smaller pistons. Smaller pistons, less clamping force.

Unless you just can’t fit a 4L80 in the chassis your working with, there is no point in spending big bucks for a 4L60 that will eventually fail behind a stout engine. Use the money that would go to all the fancy upgrades and buy the trans controller.

That's always been my thought too. By the time you spend a fortune on all the upgrades, and then it doesn't last so you do it again within a year or 2. By the time you pay for it twice, you could have done the 4L80-E that doesn't need many upgrades at all, with that expensive controller you also get tuning advantages to have it perform how you want it to perform and even change it back minutes later all while it'll last for many years. The peace of mind has to be of some value too.