Is 1.5* Positive Camber Too Much - If So, How Do I Adjust?

[idahovette]

These go on the upper ball joint. Take the big nut off the ball joint and possibly loosen the lower ball joint nut to take the pressure off the upper. Under the top nut is this sleeve. You are going to need the application specific spanner socket to remove the original sleeve and to install the new one. As you are installing the new sleeve you will see the ball joint stud moving in, out ,back ,and forth. You want the stud to the inner most position to decrease the camber. Before the sleeve gets tight you should tighten the lower, then the sleeve to the proper position and then install the top nut and torque it to specs. Other than taking the wheel and tire off that should be it.

 

[idahovette]

double post fat fingers

 

[75gmck25]

When I replaced my ball joints they came with a camber bushing like the one in your picture. I found the removal tool at the local NAPA, and swapped the new ones in when I replaced the ball joints. AFAIK, if I need more adjustment I can just take out the stock bushing and replace it with one that is either adjustable, or maybe comes in stock increments. When I installed the new ones I just torqued them to the spec in the book, and then torqued down the ball joint itself.

This article discusses how to use the bushings. https://www.jeepfan.com/projects/castor-camber-corrector-install/
Bruce

 

[Craig 85]

Just to throw it out there for D60 folks, Moog make a kit for them too. #K992. They also still make caster/camber shims that with work with all "K" trucks.

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[4WDKC]

Wow, I should have dealt with this a year and a half ago, but I have a little time now, and I’ve been devoting almost all of it to my Jimmy. I found these. They should bring the camber to +0.25 on both sides. That way if I have to replace something in the future, and it goes to neutral or even negative .25, it won’t be a big deal. So I have to tear into the lower ball joint area to install the sleeve? At this point, only my knowledge of the 4x4 front end is my weakness. @4WDKC @yevgenievich @henrym

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I went with the large ones so if I needed more than .25 movement I wouldnt have to take the front end apart. My theory on it was if I didnt need that much I could center the large portion of the cam to the front of the ball joint creating more negative caster which is good for high speed stability, usually reserved for sports/muscle cars but may help prevent death wobble in this case.

 

[idahovette]

I can't agree with negative caster for stability. Anything I've ever aligned ,we tried to get as much caster as possible.