Interior Plastic Paint

[Kilian]

Looking for input on the interior panel paints offered by LMC and USA1. Refurbishing a daily driver/work truck and need to freshen up the 1983 Carmine Red interior. Given the use the truck will get, at this time I'd rather rehab my sun bleached door panels, etc., then buy new.

Are they similar products? The LMC Colorbond paint is in general colors (Red, Blue, etc.) while USA1 is listed as actual OEM color (1981-87 Carmine Red).

How well do they match original interior parts? What about durability? I came across a past post where someone had repainted a door panel and the finish was starting to bubble.

Thanks!

 

[fast 99]

I used OER PP830 Carmine #317 OER. I was pleasantly surprised on how close it is. Just be sure to properly prepare and use SEM plastic primer.

 

[84GMCSierra]

For my daily driver I used Krylon Fusion paint. Came close to the original Blue color. It's holding up very well. I painted my door panels a few years ago.

 

[Camar068]

For my daily driver I used Krylon Fusion paint. Came close to the original Blue color. It's holding up very well. I painted my door panels a few years ago.

Agree, mine is holding up well. Search for krylon fusion here in the forums.

 

[drumvirt]

Just remember the greasy hamburger juice, residue from anyone's hands, nicotine residue, etc., etc., from over the years. Years in the paint industry taught me that there's always some contaminants on a surface that need prep. If you have nothing else, VM&P Naptha (same as lighter fluid) will remove petroleum related contaminants and alcohol (don't use the good stuff!) will remove biological related residue. If you don't use an appropriate prep solvent like these, you might still get lucky and the topcoat will stick and not bubble, etc. ...for a while, but you may have problems later.

Always test any prep solvent on an inconspicuous spot like inside a squarebody door panel before using.

Also, some brand's finish products for plastic require their first coat bonding primer. If so, use it. One reason they require this can be that their primer can have ingredients that have a molecule size that is smaller than the microscopic voids in the plastic it will adhere to. When the primer dries, it's formulated to have it's own voids or profile that is appropriate for the topcoat to adhere to properly.

Btw, one of the companies I worked for makes Krylon. On the other hand, I didn't work in the automotive coatings side, but some general principles apply to most all coatings.

 

[88suburbanoverlan]

Definitely agree with @drumvirt thats some good info!

One thing I’m looking at for my 86 suburban plastics is doing a 3M vinyl wrap. Not sure how easy that will be on the doors or how it will hold up, but the application seems pretty easy and only requires a heat gun.

Has anyone tried wrapping their interior plastics this way for a color change?

 

[Grit dog]

Definitely agree with @drumvirt thats some good info!

One thing I’m looking at for my 86 suburban plastics is doing a 3M vinyl wrap. Not sure how easy that will be on the doors or how it will hold up, but the application seems pretty easy and only requires a heat gun.

Has anyone tried wrapping their interior plastics this way for a color change?

Sounds somewhere between frustrating and impossible imo.

 

[brooksman9]

SEM ftw.

 

[Rumbledawg]

Just remember the greasy hamburger juice, residue from anyone's hands, nicotine residue, etc., etc., from over the years. Years in the paint industry taught me that there's always some contaminants on a surface that need prep. If you have nothing else, VM&P Naptha (same as lighter fluid) will remove petroleum related contaminants and alcohol (don't use the good stuff!) will remove biological related residue. If you don't use an appropriate prep solvent like these, you might still get lucky and the topcoat will stick and not bubble, etc. ...for a while, but you may have problems later.

Always test any prep solvent on an inconspicuous spot like inside a squarebody door panel before using.

Also, some brand's finish products for plastic require their first coat bonding primer. If so, use it. One reason they require this can be that their primer can have ingredients that have a molecule size that is smaller than the microscopic voids in the plastic it will adhere to. When the primer dries, it's formulated to have it's own voids or profile that is appropriate for the topcoat to adhere to properly.

Btw, one of the companies I worked for makes Krylon. On the other hand, I didn't work in the automotive coatings side, but some general principles apply to most all coatings.

TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) cleaner followed by SEM prep and paint

 

[nicoargentina]

Looking for input on the interior panel paints offered by LMC and USA1. Refurbishing a daily driver/work truck and need to freshen up the 1983 Carmine Red interior. Given the use the truck will get, at this time I'd rather rehab my sun bleached door panels, etc., then buy new.

Are they similar products? The LMC Colorbond paint is in general colors (Red, Blue, etc.) while USA1 is listed as actual OEM color (1981-87 Carmine Red).

How well do they match original interior parts? What about durability? I came across a past post where someone had repainted a door panel and the finish was starting to bubble.

Thanks!

question, can't you prepare the color in polyester bilayer for automobiles in a paint shop, here they prepare it for me with a sample of the same tone, then I paint and that's it