Intake Manifold Gasket R & R

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HotRodPC

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And make sure you go back with a 195 Tstat too. Your truck is TBI computer controlled. Many computer systems will not go into closed loop full operation until they are 190 degrees, so if you go with a 180 Tstat, your computer will not function as it normally would and your mpg and emmisions will be in the toilet.
 

89Suburban

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And make sure you go back with a 195 Tstat too. Your truck is TBI computer controlled. Many computer systems will not go into closed loop full operation until they are 190 degrees, so if you go with a 180 Tstat, your computer will not function as it normally would and your mpg and emmisions will be in the toilet.
I think it has a 180 or 160 in it right now, got to fix that ****, thanks for the advice bro.
 

Old77

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And make sure you go back with a 195 Tstat too. Your truck is TBI computer controlled. Many computer systems will not go into closed loop full operation until they are 190 degrees, so if you go with a 180 Tstat, your computer will not function as it normally would and your mpg and emmisions will be in the toilet.

Really? I actually never thought about that before. In the past, I've always just replaced my tstats with a stock replacement but had tossed around getting a cooler temp tstat but just never did. I guess I'm glad I didn't.
 

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yea but add shipping to that and they are probably $20 or more.
That's why I am trying to get all the parts at one spot and get it all shipped at once. :High 5:
 

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yep mines the same way, not sure what temp it is, it was a brand new one we had laying around and not sure of the temp and I don't think it gets up to temp. according to my gauge it does(aftermarket mech one).
 

HotRodPC

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Also, any mod/admin, if you can move this thread into the tech/write up forum it will be appreciated, I put this in the wrong place.

Got'r Done.
 

Old77

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:grd:
 

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I am going to start this thread to document my process of replacing the intake manifold gaskets on my '89 5.7L TBI.

Here's a list I got so far that I need to round up so far. There are a few things extra listed here I found I needed too, like the tensioner pulley just started to scream a little the past few days:

EGR base gasket
Thermostat and Gasket (190*)
Intake Manifold Gaskets with the rubber end pieces and Distributor Gasket
Air Cleaner Base Gasket
Tensioner Pulley
Valve Cover Gaskets
PCV Valve
3' of 5/8" Heater Hose
Distributor Cap and Rotor
Just updating my lists guys cuz I suffer from CRS, lol.....


Thermostat and Gasket (195*)
Intake Manifold Gaskets without the rubber end pieces
Tensioner Pulley
Valve Cover Gaskets
PCV Valve
3' of 5/8" Heater Hose
Distributor Cap and Rotor
Bondo
Hardner
Bondo Mesh Tape
Rust Converter Paint
Primer


Tools:

Tool Box
Makita power driver and charger
Gasket Scraper
Gaske removal spray
spray tack adhesive
Brake Kleen
Drain pan and empty jugs
Cardboard & Blankets
Step stool
Makita Work Light
Flare nut wrenches
Spare hose clamps
RTV sealant
Rags
Torque wrenches
Haynes manual
Antifreeze
Large adjustable wrench
gasket sheets
razor blades
scissors
timing light
white marking paint pen
wire wheel & 4" grinder
Bondo Paddles
 
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Swims350

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the intake gaskets would be your choice end seals or not. personally I'd buy the one with the seals then decide if you want to use them or not.
 

89Suburban

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I still need to know if I get the open or blocked port ones though.....
 

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honestly I aint sure I thought mine were open. I think the only thing closed on mine were the middle ports, they help keep the hot coolant and stuff off the area around the carb, on the old school ones cuz some have plates to put on and leave off. I would think you'd want the open ones in back having the heater hose port back there. if not seems like you wouldn't get coolant in there or heat inside. That and you can't trust the pics, you might order ones you think are blocked and get them and they be open.
 

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honestly I aint sure I thought mine were open. I think the only thing closed on mine were the middle ports, they help keep the hot coolant and stuff off the area around the carb, on the old school ones cuz some have plates to put on and leave off. I would think you'd want the open ones in back having the heater hose port back there. if not seems like you wouldn't get coolant in there or heat inside. That and you can't trust the pics, you might order ones you think are blocked and get them and they be open.
Good points.
 

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id just go with the open ones and make sure you put sealant on the water ports on the gasket so dont leak in your lifter valley
 

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