highdesertrange
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2013
- Posts
- 1,066
- Reaction score
- 211
- Location
- kalifornia
- First Name
- mike
- Truck Year
- 1978
- Truck Model
- k30
- Engine Size
- 454
dang tank nice work. highdesertranger
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Thanks bubba! Means alotdang tank nice work. highdesertranger
Nice work, I've experience the joys of rebuilding the bottom 12 inches of my 79, New floor supports, cab mounts, floors, inner, outer rockers, inner, outer cab corners, kick panels, fire wall.
looks good!
The way you are doing it works with all the spot welds, but make sure you coat and protect the areas where the metal laps over and use a high quality 2 component seam sealer, otherwise the rust gremlins will spawn from those lapped areas.
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I’ve got a few tool off Amazon that help ie: hole punch and lap joint pliers but thanks!Great work!!!
Seeing threads with work like this is great! I am far from a decent welder and even farther from someone that can do body work.
I do have a mid 90's Jeep XJ that has a few small rust holes in the floor that I am going to attempt to repair. I'm not too worried about how it looks since it is going to be a trail rig but I don't want it to look like a hack did the work - even though that's exactly what happening.
Great work!!!
Seeing threads with work like this is great! I am far from a decent welder and even farther from someone that can do body work.
I do have a mid 90's Jeep XJ that has a few small rust holes in the floor that I am going to attempt to repair. I'm not too worried about how it looks since it is going to be a trail rig but I don't want it to look like a hack did the work - even though that's exactly what happening.
Body sealant and or weld yet to decide.I am surprised to see lap welds being used in a place that rusts as much as yours did! Are you going to weld underneath to close the laps?
Or coat the bottom with some spray on skin insulator thing? I think even the 2k epoxy or some POR15 would help seal it.
Looks like it’s coming together. How’s the other side?
https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-...l&qid=1606963217&sprefix=eastwood+flan&sr=8-9I’ve got a few tool off Amazon that help ie: hole punch and lap joint pliers but thanks!
So I ended up modifying the brackets from rock auto to get the door gap better, it’s definitely not perfect, but I am not necessarily looking for a show truck, the more time you spend on gaps/alignment/fitment the better off you are going to be come prep fill block sand and paint time.Now do I modify my hinges to get the door to fit - new made in Taiwan
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Hey bubba! Thanks, but I’m definitely no expert with body work, I am a dual ticketed Journeyman Welder and Heavy Equipment Technician/Mechanic, it’s all about time and effort you are willing to put in... only reason this thread exists is because I couldn’t find anything to reference myself and if this helps someone with where to start, or have questions that someone who watches the thread or even myself could answer than we keep these old squares alive. I’m really just farting around with this as a hobby, truck was my fathers, he rebuilt it once, and never did it the way he wanted, now it’s getting a update - actually have another thread under “Down To Ground Restoration” in this forum, filled it with whatever I could pass on for knowledge, using what I know and researching or talking to others in here and offline to motivate others to try. Take it easy Bubba!Great job man! I am a mechanic by trade, but never done body/paint work. I am truly amazed how guys can repair a rusty carcass like that. Even if I were to attempt a smaller project, I would not know where to begin! My luck the damn thing would fold in half