I'm sure it's an age old question, K 20 ride quality improvements.

[midwest]

My truck started as a 77 K 20 (donor body is an 86). When I drug the truck home 15 years ago it was a mess. Had spent it's life as a logging truck for a timber guy. Anyway I remember pulling the shocks off and they would just slide in and out if I turned them upside down. I remember thinking that explained the rough ride but when I put the new shocks on it wasn't much better. Back then I also replaced the leaf springs. I don't remember what brand shocks I put on it back then but I got them at Napa and they were just a standard OEM replacement shock. I haven't ridden in many older 3/4 ton trucks but I have been told they all bounce around quite a bit. I didn't know if any of the better brand shocks would make much difference or if the truck is what it is. I don't drive it a ton so it's not a huge deal, just thinking of smoothing it out some.

 

[Shorty81]

The old trucks ride stiffer than modern trucks. I like my K20 ride. Embrace it. That's part of the reason we drive the old iron. New trucks offer smoother ride.

 

[Copymutt]

Ha, u should ride in mine w/ overloads. Put a ton or so in the bed. It’ll ride like a caddy.

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[GTX63]

A 77 K20 is going to ride just like it started life as, a log truck. They just do. They are the unfiltered cigarette of trucks. It was a different time then and trucks were made to work in first. Comfort was an afterthought.
The Squarebody frame to chassis is a rigid design. Shocks designed for comfort rather than load, weaker sidewall tires, a fatter seat all put together would make a very slight improvement, but then you lose some of the truck's strength.
There is some truth that a loaded 3/4 ton will ride better than empty.

 

[75gmck25]

My K25 is 8600 lb GVW, and it definitely rides better with about 1000lbs in the bed. In that era GM did not use any type of factory progressive overloads, so the full GVW load capacity is there all the time. It’s great for hauling loads.

 

[midwest]

Yeah, it is definitely noticeable how much better it rides with a load in the bed.

 

[squaredeal91]

I prefer the way our older trucks drive and feel. To me nothing can compare to a chevy truck. My shortbed k10 needs constant weight in the back for comfort and traction because someone before me put a super light all wood flatbed on it. I have plans to put original stepper on it with paint. Sorry for rambling, But I think the key is less spring pack if you can afford it or keep weight in the bed for comfort.

 

[midwest]

I've rode in plenty of K 10's (and my K 20 for the last 15 years). An old K 10 rides closer to a new truck that it does a K 20.

 

[Bextreme04]

Mine rides much better now than it did stock. It was originally a 1980 K25 8600GVW truck. I converted it to a single rear 31 Gallon tank and that gave me room to put in 63" GMT-400 3/4 ton rear leaf springs. You need to move the spring mount forward 4" to do that and the original 20 Gallon saddle tanks are in the way of that. I also put an ORD 2.5" shackle flip on at the same time. That combined for about 4" of lift in the rear while maintaining the carrying capacity, but it softened the ride considerably. I combined that with a Tuff Country EZ-Ride HD 4" spring in the front and an ORD sway bar disconnect. I only connect the sway bar when towing or with a heavy load in the bed, otherwise it is completely unnecessary and actually makes the ride much stiffer unloaded. It still rides like a 3/4 ton truck, but WAY better than stock.

 

[midwest]

Thanks, sounds like you have helped yours. If I was driving mine all the time I might take those steps. At this point it spends 95 % of it's time in the garage and only sees a couple thousand miles a year. I was hoping I could just buy some new shocks and spend an hour making a difference. Sounds like that is not an option.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Thanks, sounds like you have helped yours. If I was driving mine all the time I might take those steps. At this point it spends 95 % of it's time in the garage and only sees a couple thousand miles a year. I was hoping I could just buy some new shocks and spend an hour making a difference. Sounds like that is not an option.

I have 84' C20 and it has overloads, so it rides a little on the rougher side but like other folks I like it.

However I have a customer at the shop with a 77 C20 and when he is not hauling anything with it he runs 32psi in his front tires and 26psi in the back. I'm not sure I agree with 26 in the back, but if you are currently running 60, dropping to 32 or even 35 with cause the tires to flex a little more and make it ride a little smoother though there might be some handling trade off, you'd have to experiment.

Tires: if your currently running 6 plys or 8 plys, dropping down to LT tires would provide a bit better ride to, but you wouldn't be able to load up your truck heavy with lighter duty tires. Also if your tires are old the rubber hardens with age. So if these things are 15 or 20 year old they are going to have hardened quite a bit, and if they happen to be old enough to be bias tires, radials will definitely ride better.

 

[Copymutt]

Experienced the ride quality of various tires at a dealership.
Brand new F150’s, same trim level. First one rode like a barkalounger. Second one over same test drive would transmit every road imperfection to the steering wheel & to a lesser degree the seat.
First truck had Michelin P rated tires.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Experienced the ride quality of various tires at a dealership.
Brand new F150’s, same trim level. First one rode like a barkalounger. Second one over same test drive would transmit every road imperfection to the steering wheel & to a lesser degree the seat.
First truck had Michelin P rated tires.

My point exactly. Most of the C20 series trucks should be getting D rated tires, I choose E rated tires, because I do load the truck up from time to time and wanted the extra compacity for piece of mind in that scenario, but all for the added stability when towing. I advised LT tires, but if the OP really doesn't haul loads then P rated would be the softest time. Makes a big difference, but there is a trade off for sure.

 

[Grit dog]

My point exactly. Most of the C20 series trucks should be getting D rated tires, I choose E rated tires, because I do load the truck up from time to time and wanted the extra compacity for piece of mind in that scenario, but all for the added stability when towing. I advised LT tires, but if the OP really doesn't haul loads then P rated would be the softest time. Makes a big difference, but there is a trade off for sure.

Doesn’t really matter what load rating of tires are being used. Just adjust the pressure for the load or conditions or the ride quality.
Short of having med duty tires like 19.5s that have a rather high min pressure requirement, any LT tire (that designation is inclusive of all load ranges in the typical 16-20” rim sizes (and larger) can be aired down reasonably as seen fit for the load or ride.
Behind that, OP just needs new springs. The more expensive they are, the softer/better ride quality you can get.
And as mentioned above, the rear is upgradeable to newer longer OE springs which will help. And likely cheaper than high $ new aftermarket springs.

 

[Snoots]

I don't think Buick made a truck.