I'm back. LOL New Starter, no power.

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CWGRL

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I'm back! LOL. decided to change my sterter, the old one was being goofy. Anyways, installed new starter and now nothing, zip. Had it tested, it tested fine.

Everything is connected, good ground, but won't start. No crank, no click from the soleniod. no dash lights or door chime. but Yay! I do have headlights and horn. LOL

Ran fine prior to new stater. has new battery and cables, all fuses are good.

Any ideas?
 

firebane

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You missed a wire somewhere. You should have 4-5 wires coming off the starter.

1) Large to battery +
2) Red to Junction Block
3) Red to Alternator
4) Purple to ignition
 

CWGRL

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You missed a wire somewhere. You should have 4-5 wires coming off the starter.

1) Large to battery +
2) Red to Junction Block
3) Red to Alternator
4) Purple to ignition

Only 2, red to battery, and red to the unknown. LOL. Runs behind engine and disappears into wiring hell.
 

MadOgre

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Yes there are only 2 small red wires and a large to battery

I would bet one of the 2 small wires are broken or the fusible link is fried.
 

MadOgre

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@chengny has the engine compartment wiring diagram. this will help you find your issue. Sounds like your missing a wire
 

CWGRL

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There's alwaysvonly been the 2 wires. The battery wire does have a fuse able link, but it looks good.
 

MadOgre

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If you wiggle it around do you get any thing happening?
 

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Im pretty sure you have more than 2 wires down there. its not very nice outside or I would go snap a picture for you. Anyways once Jerry chimes in you'll figure it out he has all the diagrams you need.
 

firebane

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There's alwaysvonly been the 2 wires. The battery wire does have a fuse able link, but it looks good.

There really needs to be more than 2 mores! LOL. If you don't have a wire from the starter to the junction block nothing in the truck will work properly.

Grab a volt meter and do a voltage measurement at the junction block and see what you get. Should be reading some voltage.
 

mistaake

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Check the battery terminals, and try to replace the battery cable from the battery to the starter. It's cheap and might fix it.
 

crewcab higgy

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Can you jump the starter if yes then you know your getting power. If not then bad connection to your battery. I have always wired it with 3 1 to the batt one to the ignition (this is most likely the culprit) and one to the alternator. Also if you have an alarm check your relays for the alarm.
 

chengny

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"There's alwaysvonly been the 2 wires"

I think this refers to the quantity of red wires - not the total number of wires connected to the starter/solenoid assembly.

But somebody might have made some "upgrades" to the OEM wiring. The primary section of the start/charge wiring group on these trucks differs a bit from the earlier C/K versions:

Instead of the usual 4 leads connected like this:

1. One (1) large diameter black (from battery) - connected to the "B" terminal

2. Two (2) medium diameter reds (to alternator and system) - both together and also on the "B" terminal

3. One (1) purple (from ignition switch) connected at the "S" terminal

The 1990 V series has only 3 leads connected to the starter/solenoid assembly. It is basically the same set-up. The way they eliminated the 4th lead was simply by combining the two reds into one common wire that runs straight up to the firewall junction block. This common lead feeding the JB is protected by a fusible link. The feed from the JB to the ignition switch is also protected by a fusible link.

I only have the schematics to go by, so I can't see where the fusible links are physically located, but an FL is always inserted at a point in the circuit that is closest to the power supply. This protects the feed wire as well as the circuit. So it can be assumed that the FL is right down close to the "B" terminal on the starter.


On a 1990 V series truck, as factory - the connections at the S/S assembly are:

1. One (1) large diameter black (from battery) - connected at the "B" terminal

2. One medium diameter red (to firewall JB)- also connected at the "B" terminal

3. One small diameter purple (from ignition switch) connected at the "S"

So it is possible that - if somebody spliced the primary supply from the battery (black) and the feed to the JB (red) together - it would appear to be only one wire (a red one). Since the OP mentions that there is a fusible link visible on the battery feed that would make sense.

As for the other "red" wire, it might be that the actual color is the standard purple and it just has developed a "patina" over the years.

Having said all that, I have no idea why the starter motor isn't cranking.

There is nothing unusual about this starting circuit:

If the battery is fully charged and the cable to the "B" terminal is good (and the connections at both ends are tight/clean) - that takes care of power supply.

If the starter/solenoid is known good and bolted securely to the block - that covers the component

If there is 12VDC at the purple wire with the ignition switch in the "START" position - that proves the control circuit is okay.

The only remaining part of the starter motor circuit is the path back to the battery negative. That would be the ground cable that connects to negative post to the engine block.

If the headlights, etc (they have an independent ground circuit on the radiator support) are working and the purple lead to the solenoid shows 12VDC in START - take a good look at the main ground cable. As a test, just use a jumper cable. Clamp one end to the battery negative and the other to a good clean ground on the engine block and try cranking.


The start/charge wiring diagram for a 1990 V with a gas engine;

You must be registered for see images attach
 
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