Ignition problem the truck won't start...

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

raylanr

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Posts
566
Reaction score
9
Location
Campeche, MEX
First Name
Franc
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
454
I think FoamyPirate just assigned him self a new project...MINE
We do need to get together and meet... at least just to see your truck...

In another note, I think that I boosted the power steering box I guess or the seals, when I pull the truck to back to the house, because the steering fluid box is empty and there was a pool of liquid were I parked it. I don't know if I would have to replace the whole thing or just get some new seals...
 
Last edited:

Jims86

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
5,492
Reaction score
135
Location
Patterson,Ca
First Name
Jim
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10 Suburban Silverado
Engine Size
5.7 TBI
I think FoamyPirate just assigned him self a new project...MINE
We do need to get together and meet... at least just to see your truck...

In another note, I think that I boosted the power steering box I guess or the seals, when I pull the truck to back to the house, because the steering fluid box is empty and there was a pool of liquid were I parked it. I don't know if I would have to replace the whole thing or just get some new seals...

thats normal for PS fluid to piss out while the engine is off....makes a helluva mess.
 

raylanr

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Posts
566
Reaction score
9
Location
Campeche, MEX
First Name
Franc
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
454
thats normal for PS fluid to piss out while the engine is off....makes a helluva mess.

Oh yeah, I saw the puddle and I thought great here goes another 100-200 on fixing this. maybe I should just refill it and keep and I on it.

Thanks
 

raylanr

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Posts
566
Reaction score
9
Location
Campeche, MEX
First Name
Franc
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
454
It has not been over a month yet, and the square don't want to start again.
I notice that the battery is not reading 14 volts when I turn the key before I actually crank it, I don't think the module went bad this fast...

I got a laminated floor to install in a week, I need to have my work horse ready for that day... I can't put my table saw on my trailblazer...

As always any input will be greatly appreciate it.
 

crazy4offroad

Equal Opportunity Destroyer
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Posts
8,479
Reaction score
1,110
Location
West BY-GOD Virginia
First Name
Curt
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
K-10
Engine Size
350/SM465/NP205
Time to check the pick-up coil, it's down deeper in the distributor. Looks like a ring with a couple wires coming from it.
 

crazy4offroad

Equal Opportunity Destroyer
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Posts
8,479
Reaction score
1,110
Location
West BY-GOD Virginia
First Name
Curt
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
K-10
Engine Size
350/SM465/NP205
You know, I have heard of instances with other vehicles that if you leave the key in the "run" position with the vehicle not running it can kill the ignition module. I dont know if that applies to HEI or not, or if you might have a power problem, backfeeding or something that might be killing the module. Just throwing that out there maybe get more people to respond to that.
 

raylanr

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Posts
566
Reaction score
9
Location
Campeche, MEX
First Name
Franc
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
454
If the module went bad Autozone is going to replace it for free I'll make sure of that, when I replaced I notice that the post in my cap look a little burn too... I will have to schedule time to crawl in the engine compartment and take a look at the pick up coil...
 

82chevy350

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Posts
775
Reaction score
51
Location
Van Buren, AR
First Name
Joey
Truck Year
1982, 1976
Truck Model
C10, K10, K5
Engine Size
350, 350
Make sure you use dielectric greese between the module and distributor if you didnt use it thats can cause it to burn up quick
 

raylanr

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Posts
566
Reaction score
9
Location
Campeche, MEX
First Name
Franc
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
454
Well What do you know I try this morning to cranked her up and she start right up, inlet her warm up and as soon as I put her in gear the beast shut off and didn't want to turn back on... Any ideas?
 

Jims86

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
5,492
Reaction score
135
Location
Patterson,Ca
First Name
Jim
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10 Suburban Silverado
Engine Size
5.7 TBI
Well What do you know I try this morning to cranked her up and she start right up, inlet her warm up and as soon as I put her in gear the beast shut off and didn't want to turn back on... Any ideas?

Cant be much else to it. you have replaced everything else. I would look at your ingnition switch in the column. All the copper shavings from operation over the years may have taken their toll. have you tried running a jumper wire directly to the power terminal on the distributor to see how long it will run that way? all that does is take the ignition switch out of the mix.
 

raylanr

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Posts
566
Reaction score
9
Location
Campeche, MEX
First Name
Franc
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
454
Cant be much else to it. you have replaced everything else. I would look at your ingnition switch in the column. All the copper shavings from operation over the years may have taken their toll. have you tried running a jumper wire directly to the power terminal on the distributor to see how long it will run that way? all that does is take the ignition switch out of the mix.

I have not tried that yet, I did replace the module and use that dielectric paste when I replace it... but I have not replace the cap or anything else. One thing that I notice is that after it died, every time I tried to turned her back on, it did not crank as much, like if it was tired and every try it gave me less crank... I don't know if I'm explaining my self...
 

HotRodPC

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Posts
47,132
Reaction score
9,330
Location
OKC, OK
First Name
HotRod
Truck Year
85 K20 LWB
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
Now it sounds like the coil. Have you replaced that yet. I don't recalll and didn't go back and read the whole thread.
 

raylanr

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Posts
566
Reaction score
9
Location
Campeche, MEX
First Name
Franc
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
454
Now it sounds like the coil. Have you replaced that yet. I don't recalll and didn't go back and read the whole thread.

No I didn't replace the coil, only the module. But Jim maybe up to something because when it died on me a couple days ago she was acting funny... Sine she is not my daily driver, I normally just turn her every 3-4 days and drive around the block... One time after I replace the module I drove it to the store and back without problem, the next time every time I turn it will died but will trim on again... So it maybe the switch cables that are not working properly and some how the movement of the steering wheel made them lost contact... I know I'm not very good with cars but I can get things done with good directions on how to do them.
 

HotRodPC

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Posts
47,132
Reaction score
9,330
Location
OKC, OK
First Name
HotRod
Truck Year
85 K20 LWB
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
I agree, do check what Jim mentions, but don't rule out the coil either. Coils very very rarely go bad, but when they do, they are somewhat hard to diagnose too, and do really wierd things like you have been talking about. It's common when a coil goes bad, at least with the old school cylinder type that you'd use with points distributor, it would start and run, then once good and warmed up, or once it finally had enough and got hot enough, it would quit working. Cools off, works again, and no telling how long it will work next time, or if it will even start next time. Only way to know for positive is to ohms test the coil windings.
 

raylanr

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Posts
566
Reaction score
9
Location
Campeche, MEX
First Name
Franc
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
454
I agree, do check what Jim mentions, but don't rule out the coil either. Coils very very rarely go bad, but when they do, they are somewhat hard to diagnose too, and do really wierd things like you have been talking about. It's common when a coil goes bad, at least with the old school cylinder type that you'd use with points distributor, it would start and run, then once good and warmed up, or once it finally had enough and got hot enough, it would quit working. Cools off, works again, and no telling how long it will work next time, or if it will even start next time. Only way to know for positive is to ohms test the coil windings.

I thing You just hit The problem in the head, it maybe the coil that fail... I do have a multimeter that I can test the ohms if you can walk me thru I can do that, once my little baby girl wokes up from her nap in my arms... Lol
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,516
Posts
959,754
Members
36,955
Latest member
BigHevy
Top