I think I need a new engine

[Dodg3m4n]

that is the vacuum advance right?

 

[mtnmankev]

A couple things stick out to me.
The vacuum advance seems too far retarded from what I am used to seeing.
And if the timing is late, that will affect starting and running.
In your pic, the rotor is pointing to where #8 normally is.
Try putting #1 wire there, and follow through clockwise with the rest of the wires and see what happens.
Also, the rotor doesn't look too pretty either.

Here's a pic of how the wires should be with a "correctly" indexed distributor.
Would you be comfortable to pull the distributor and re-index it if necessary ?

 

[Dodg3m4n]

I found that same image a few days ago and the wires get pulled super tight and one or two of them won’t even reach from distributor to plug. I started with number one where the rotor is about to be. Should I try moving them all one spot over and see what happens?

 

[mtnmankev]

I have found it's better to start with the longest wire first, #2, then work my way with the next shorter wire.
Yank all the wires off, and go from longest to shortest.

 

[Dodg3m4n]

I finally got it started!!! I’m not sure what I was expecting but it was definitely not to make myself deaf just by sticking my head under the hood with it running. Now I believe all my issues are the oil leaks from everywhere. I saw your reply after the fact but I moved all the wires one spot counter clockwise but will redo them if it doesn’t run well when I go drive it tomorrow morning because I did notice a few things I forgot to put back in place when I replaced the clutch last year

 

[mtnmankev]

Glad you got it running !!
If it wasn't for the pic I asked for showing the position of the rotor when the harmonic balancer said it should be pointing at #1 or 6, we would still be trying to figure it out.
And open headers do have a tendency to get a tad loud.

 

[Dodg3m4n]

I do have one thing that is bugging me though. Obviously the exhaust gets hot but would they get hot enough to burn the oil off the engine block? It’s smoking pretty good from the engine behind the headers. More than it did with the factory logs on. My valve cover gaskets are toast so that’s next on my to do list but I figured an exhaust that wasn’t broken was more important.

 

[mtnmankev]

Consider the amount of surface area of the exhaust tubes radiating heat, and that says yes, you will get more heat to exposed surfaces.
Definitely replace the valve cover gaskets, use good rubber ones since cork will dry out and fail.
Plus the cork soaks up oil, and eventually some can find its way past the gaskets.
Also, verify your ignition timing (as I noticed the position of the advance unit) if the timing is running late, that causes more heat plus reduced fuel economy and loss of performance.

 

[Snoots]

Nope. It won't get hot enough to burn the oil off of the block.

 

[mtnmankev]

Nope. It won't get hot enough to burn the oil off of the block.

Usually maybe no, but if his timing is late it could.
Remember, I am accustomed to weird things happen most folks don't get to experience.

 

[Dodg3m4n]

Consider the amount of surface area of the exhaust tubes radiating heat, and that says yes, you will get more heat to exposed surfaces.
Definitely replace the valve cover gaskets, use good rubber ones since cork will dry out and fail.
Plus the cork soaks up oil, and eventually some can find its way past the gaskets.
Also, verify your ignition timing (as I noticed the position of the advance unit) if the timing is running late, that causes more heat plus reduced fuel economy and loss of performance.

How would I go about verifying the timing? I know it could probably be tweaked a little one way or another. How would one change the position of the advance unit and how would that help? I’m sure if it advances it to far or not enough it’ll run but just really bad right? How does the vacuum advance work?

 

[mtnmankev]

The timing is adjusted by loosening the distributor lock bolt (9/16") and rotate the distributor.
The vacuum advance is controlled by vacuum from a fitting at the carburetor, and you don't adjust that.
A timing light is used to set the timing where it needs to be (depending on the engine and the factory specs, 10 to 12 degrees BTDC).
A vacuum gauge can also be used, rotate the distributor counter clockwise(advance) until you get the highest steady needle reading, then back off one inch of mercury.
Personally, I set timing by ear, but then again I have over 50 years experience doing this stuff, so I don't suggest you try that method yet.
Step 1: unplug the vacuum line at the distributor and plug it, a pencil or golf tee does nicely.
Step 2: loosen the distributor hold down bolt just until you can turn the distributor by hand.
Step 3: Hook up a timing light, connections to the battery are straightforward, red to positive and black to negative, the spark plug connection clamps around the wire to #1 cylinder.
Start the engine and let it warm up, then pull the trigger on the timing light and aim it at the timing mark you found that has the marks on it.
Rotate the distributor until the marks for 10 degrees to 12 degrees BTDC line up.
That will get you basic timing close to factory specs.

 

[Dodg3m4n]

And those marks are the points on the metal plate that lines up with the groove in the balancer right? If so does that plate have the degrees on it to tell when it’s at a certain point?

 

[mtnmankev]

Clean off the plate and you should see the numbers.
Do a google search on Chevy 350 timing mark plate and you should find a pic of one showing which mark corresponds to which number of degrees.
Just remember: when the engine is running and you are trying to shine the light on the marks, moving fan blades and other moving parts are dangerous.

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

I was also curious as to why the engine hydrolocked from installing headers and dealing with plug wires and firing order, but weird things do happen.
I want to see him get through the engine running on all 8 correctly, then if need be we can hopefully walk him through any further diagnosis if needed.

I've learned from experience if it's 180 put, the misfiring 1 or 2 cylinders, can lock an engine up for a split second and completely stop the starter. That's all I can think of. .