I think I need a new engine

[mtnmankev]

An engine basically is an air pump, and the gauge measures the flow and variations caused by mechanical issues.
it can show late ignition timing, burnt valves, blown head gasket, and many other things by looking at the needle movements.
Here is but one site that will introduce you to what a gauge can do for you: https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015...d-a-vacuum-gauge-to-pinpoint-engine-problems/
Every time I buy a vehicle, I run the engine with a vacuum gauge to determine how much I will pay.

 

[RaisedK5]

Sounds like you removed the plug wires, then found tdc, then put #1 plug wire where the rotor was pointing? You may be 180 out on the distributor. At tdc on the compression stroke the timing marks should line up and the rotor "should" be pointing toward the #1 cylinder. Front right of engine. You may have have #1 where #6 should be etc. You may have thought it was the compression stroke when it was on the exhaust stroke.

 

[Dodg3m4n]

It cranks freely without the spark plugs but it’s shooting some kind of liquid out number 6 spark plug hole. It smells like gas and something else mixed together. I don’t have a helping hand so I can’t really verify anything in the engine bay by watching when I crank it over

 

[mtnmankev]

Do you have any kind of rubber hose that would fit snug in the spark plug hole so you can catch the liquid in a container?
From your first post, I suspected the engine hydrolocked from fluid in at least one cylinder.
Now it's time to verify just what it is so the diagnosis and repair can continue.
I suspect it may be as simple as a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the cylinder, but don't condemn the engine completely yet.
If it's in decent shape otherwise, head gaskets are worth doing to save the engine, if something like the block or head are cracked, then it's a different matter completely.
As was drilled into me from day one of my automotive education - "Test, don't guess".

 

[Dodg3m4n]

I don’t have anything to catch it in but it’s all evaporated now. There’s marks on the frame where it spit out but nothing left and no more is coming out. I checked the coolant and oil and there isn’t one in the other so that narrows possible problems down right? Or is that wrong thinking

 

[mtnmankev]

In that brief amount of time, you wouldn't have lost enough to notice.
If it was oil or coolant, there would be a slick residue where it sprayed onto.
At this point, leave the plugs out, and crank the engine some to make sure no more liquid comes out.
Put the spark plugs back in, verify where the rotor points when the timing marks line up for #1, and make sure the wires are in their correct positions on the distributor cap, and start the engine.
Please report back how the engine runs and sounds when it's going again.

 

[Dodg3m4n]

Sorry for the blurry photo but which of those points should the line be at? I just want to make sure I have it set up properly

 

[mtnmankev]

You are still advanced a few degrees before TDC, but close enough to reference for the rotor position.
Pull the dizzy cap off and see if the rotor points in the general direction of #1 cylinder itself, or does it point towards the firewall.

 

[cstew47]

I am baffled as to why an ignition issue could cause a mechanical blockage. What you are describing sounds like a mechanical timing problem or breakage, like a pushrod, lifter or the cam out of synch.

 

[mtnmankev]

I am baffled as to why an ignition issue could cause a mechanical blockage. What you are describing sounds like a mechanical timing problem or breakage, like a pushrod, lifter or the cam out of synch.

I was also curious as to why the engine hydrolocked from installing headers and dealing with plug wires and firing order, but weird things do happen.
I want to see him get through the engine running on all 8 correctly, then if need be we can hopefully walk him through any further diagnosis if needed.

 

[Dodg3m4n]

You are still advanced a few degrees before TDC, but close enough to reference for the rotor position.
Pull the dizzy cap off and see if the rotor points in the general direction of #1 cylinder itself, or does it point towards the firewall.

It’s pointing directly at #2 cylinder. Should I put the cap back on and start with #1 plug wire there and work my way around?

 

[cstew47]

Do you have any kind of rubber hose that would fit snug in the spark plug hole so you can catch the liquid in a container?
From your first post, I suspected the engine hydrolocked from fluid in at least one cylinder.
Now it's time to verify just what it is so the diagnosis and repair can continue.
I suspect it may be as simple as a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the cylinder, but don't condemn the engine completely yet.
If it's in decent shape otherwise, head gaskets are worth doing to save the engine, if something like the block or head are cracked, then it's a different matter completely.
As was drilled into me from day one of my automotive education - "Test, don't guess".

For his sake I hope it isn't hydrolocked. That's bent rod territory.

 

[mtnmankev]

Definitely worth a shot, and a LOT less hassle than re-indexing the distributor.
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 clockwise.

 

[Dodg3m4n]

Went and bought jumper cables because I seem to have misplaced the ones I had but it’s trying to start now and some cranks it keeps rolling for a second or two after I stop cranking. Maybe the battery needs a good charge on it before it’ll run? I can hear it trying to fire listening to the open headers but it’s like I’m missing something super small that’s keeping it from actually starting

 

[mtnmankev]

Good battery charge definitely helps an engine start and run.
Please turn the engine through again until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is lined up at TDC, remove the distributor cap and send a pic of where the rotor is pointing.
You MIGHT end up having to re-index the distributor, but I want to see a couple things.
I'm also curious where the vacuum advance is positioned.