I really messed up

[dvdswan]

if brake fluid hits really hot metal it tends to catch fire or splatter. Top notch eye protection is a must!

 

[DoubleDingo]

You need to make sure you are getting the appropriate nuts for the lines. There are SAE and metric pitched nuts, which depending on the trucks repair history could both be on your truck at the same time. It happened to me with an old Explorer once. Drove me nuts.

I was thinking the same thing, figure out if it's SAE or metric and go from there

 

[Rusty Nail]

This.^^^
We are allllll waiting for pics of the fire.

what's the hold up old boy?

 

[dvdswan]

This.^^^
We are allllll waiting for pics of the fire.

what's the hold up old boy?

Can't find anyone to hold his beer?

 

[78C10BigTen]

Can't find anyone to hold his beer?

Foam dome??? js

 

[dvdswan]

Foam dome??? js

If he's not careful he might be a chrome dome after the fire....

 

[78C10BigTen]

If he's not careful he might be a chrome dome after the fire....

Get out the turtle wax!!!!

 

[79dentside]

So guys, good news! I got all the brake lines in and replaced as of tonight! I have an extra prebent section that is the back half of the line running to the rear, might do that one, but for now I want this thing on the road again. It’s been sitting for a while, glad I haven’t had the city pay me a visit for it being up on jack stands at various times in the last weeks.

I bought a set of brake line wrenches too for the future. It was probably good that I replaced them due to the age, but I’m still not pleased about it all.

The only place that I found in my area that I could go pick up pre-bent lines, was LMC truck. Boy did they save my butt. Without them, I would have to hope that I could get a set off of a junkyard truck.

 

[79dentside]

We are golden, took a drive and it does fantastic. New lines, new master cylinder, new front pads. The passenger side had a collapsed rubber line that was essentially eliminating the front right caliper. The rears had air and took TONS of bleeding before any fluid at all even made it to the rear. So I’m thinking I only had that front left caliper working...

*New question... E-brake!

The emergency brake is NOT WORKING, as it wasn’t before. I tightened the but down on the cable pull and got some slack out of the cable, but the e-brake still doesn’t work. Any ideas?

 

[78C10BigTen]

We are golden, took a drive and it does fantastic. New lines, new master cylinder, new front pads. The passenger side had a collapsed rubber line that was essentially eliminating the front right caliper. The rears had air and took TONS of bleeding before any fluid at all even made it to the rear. So I’m thinking I only had that front left caliper working...

*New question... E-brake!

The emergency brake is NOT WORKING, as it wasn’t before. I tightened the but down on the cable pull and got some slack out of the cable, but the e-brake still doesn’t work. Any ideas?

Cant help you there... i dont use mine and never have. If it wasnt for inspection i probly wouldnt have gone through the headache of hookin it back up after the rear change.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I would personally want one, simply because backup.

Also, helps keep the truck from rolling when in neutral. Id lke to be able to keep the truck on in neutral haha.

 

[eskimomann209]

We are golden, took a drive and it does fantastic. New lines, new master cylinder, new front pads. The passenger side had a collapsed rubber line that was essentially eliminating the front right caliper. The rears had air and took TONS of bleeding before any fluid at all even made it to the rear. So I’m thinking I only had that front left caliper working...

*New question... E-brake!

The emergency brake is NOT WORKING, as it wasn’t before. I tightened the but down on the cable pull and got some slack out of the cable, but the e-brake still doesn’t work. Any ideas?

Take pictures along the cable at all the junctions so we can see. There is several places slack could develop and without seeing it, We have no way to help. Could be the cables or in the drums.

 

[Turbo4whl]

We are golden, took a drive and it does fantastic. New lines, new master cylinder, new front pads. The passenger side had a collapsed rubber line that was essentially eliminating the front right caliper. The rears had air and took TONS of bleeding before any fluid at all even made it to the rear. So I’m thinking I only had that front left caliper working...

*New question... E-brake!

The emergency brake is NOT WORKING, as it wasn’t before. I tightened the but down on the cable pull and got some slack out of the cable, but the e-brake still doesn’t work. Any ideas?

Some info about bleeding GM brakes that may help in the future and for others reading this thread. GM master cylinders have a piston inside of another piston. What this is designed for is to apply the rear shoes first, then the front discs. The way it works is the rear shoe return springs are pushing the wheel cylinders back creating some pressure in the line back to the master cylinder.

When you apply the brake pedal only the one piston moves until the small line pressure is over come. This means the shoes are moved through the slack and contacting the drums. Then fluid is applied to the front and rear. Now if the rear brakes are way out of adjustment the center piston moves through it's full stroke and then the brake pedal push rod finally pushes both pistons. When this happens it is very hard to bleed the brakes because there in very little travel left in the master cylinder.

So the helpful trick is to apply the parking brake before bleeding the system. Now much less fluid or piston movement is required to over come the return spring line pressure.

Now about your parking brake, as stated, you must make sure the cables are moving properly. Also the rear shoes need to be in the proper adjustment. Since the self adjusters can rust and fail, so can the parking brake.

Some may think the self adjusters are auto adjusters, they are not. When new shoes are installed they need to be adjusted properly. The self adjusters if working properly will only maintain the shoe adjustment. The self adjusters will not work if the shoes are way out of adjustment.

NOTE: I hope this is all clear as I did have Scotch on the rocks tonight.

 

[ShortBus]

I JUST replaced my hard lines. Went with pre-bent stainless from Inline Tube.
I took my time and went slow. Wasn't too bad.

 

[eskimomann209]

Yeah and a vacuum bleeder makes a HUGE difference. Also to supplement that, SPEED BLEEDERS are the ****. They speed up the process if you know how to use them.
I add a little Teflon in the threads and put a hose on them into a 1L bottle.