I need help buying my tools for class at school

[davbell22602]

Hey Retro,

Did the kobalt/snapon impact sockets have the date code on them? I got couple kobalt impact sockets that have the same design as the regular kobalt/snapon but no date code on them.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Not that I am aware of Dave...I've run across that with some SO impacts, no date codes.

 

[davbell22602]

Are the old Benchtop sockets that were sold at Kmart any good?

 

[davbell22602]

So does them older craftsman have the "V" stamped on them and the new craftsman has the "G" or "G1" stamped them?

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Are the old Benchtop sockets that were sold at Kmart any good?

They're okay for occasional use. Some have used them professionally without problems though.

So does them older craftsman have the "V" stamped on them and the new craftsman has the "G" or "G1" stamped them?

correct. You'll be getting quite a few. The G and G1s are Danaher made and really suck.

 

[davbell22602]

They're okay for occasional use. Some have used them professionally without problems though.



correct. You'll be getting quite a few. The G and G1s are Danaher made and really suck.

Ok, Saw some craftsman sockets with a "E" stamping on them as well. I guess thats Danaher made too.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Ok, Saw some craftsman sockets with a "E" stamping on them as well. I guess thats Danaher made too.

Nope, those are Easco made. Very good quality.

 

[davbell22602]

Nope, those are Easco made. Very good quality.

Ok, So look for the "E" and "V" stamping on craftsman sockets. Any other stampings I should look for in craftsman sockets? Thanks

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Here's a list of known craftsman date ranges and manufacturers.

Last Updated: 7/15/11
(Note-- items in red are the latest updates)

Early Craftsman Series (generally pre-1947, some exceptions):

A-circle = Empire, ca. 1935 -1973

BC = unknown U.S. manufacturer, ca. ?

BE = New Britain, ca. 1931 - 1947

BM = S-K, ca. 1939 - 1951

BT = Vlchek/New Britain, ca. 1936 - 1938

Cxx = Probably New Britain or Hinsdale, ca. 1932 - 1936

CI = unknown U.S manu., ca. 1930 - 1945

CF or C-F = Probably Herbrand, ca. 1934 - 1939

CK = Unknown U.S. manu., ca. 1939 - 1943

Craftsman Vanadium = unknown U.S. Manu, ca. 1931 - 1941

C8 = JP Danielson, ca. 1930 -1936

F-circle = Miller Falls, ca. 1949 - 1964

G-circle = possibly Lectrolite, ca. 1949 - 1964

H-circle = New Britain, ca. 1931 - 1947

K-circle = SK, ca. 1939 - 1951 perhaps later

N-square = unknown U.S. manu., ca ? - ?

P-circle = Wilde, ca. 1945 - 1973

S-circle = Kastar, ca. 1960 - 2008, perhaps earlier

V-circle = unknown U.S. manu., ca. ? - 1985

U-circle = Plomb/Penens, ca. 1944 - 1948

Y-circle = possibly Ridge Tool, ca. ? - ?

Z-circle = Mayhew, ca. 1957 - 1969

Modern Craftsman Series (generally 1947 and later, some exceptions):

AZ-circle = J.H. Williams & Co, ca. 1955 - 1967

BF = probably Daido, possibly KTC, Japanese made, ca 1969 - 1987

C = likely Crescent division of Cooper Industries, ca. 1964 - 1973, possibly later

C = Stanley Works, Taiwanese made, ca. ? - ?
(note--this is a Canadian Craftsman series code)

CG = unknown U.S. manu., ca. 2001 - 2005

D = Kington, Chinese made, ca. 1992 - 2008

DJ = Mitutoyo, Japanese made, ca. 1968 perhaps earlier & later

E/EE = National Hand Tools/later Stanley Works-NHT division, some USA made, most Taiwanese made, ca. 1982 - 1991

EEE/EEC/EE7 = Stanley Works, Taiwanese made, ca. 1988 - 2009
(note--these may be Canadian Craftsman series codes)

F = Danaher/possibly K-D division, ca. ? - 2008

G = Easco, ca. 1980 - 1989 perhaps as early as 1979 when Easco acquired the Gastonia plant

G continued = Danaher, ca. 1990 - 2011

G1 = Danaher, ca. 2000 - 2004

G2 = Danaher, ca. 2004 - 2008

G2D = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2011

GD = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2009

GK = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 2003 - 2011

GK-A = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 1999 - 2003

GK-F = Danaher/Kinsley Tools Division, ca. 2007 - 2008

GK-G = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 2007 - 2008

GK-X = Danaher/Kinsley Tools Division, ca. ? - 2008

H = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 1994 - 2011

HZ = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. ? - 2008

HZ O = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 2008 - 2009

HZ OO = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 2008 - 2009

I-circle = Parker Mfg Co, ca. 1962 - 1986

JW = J.H. Williams & Co, ca. 1968 - 1972

K = SK division of Facom, ca. 1985 - 2004, could still be NOS

K = Danaher, ca. 2009 - 2010

K1W = Danaher, ca. 2007

K3V = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008

K3X = Danaher, ca. 2007 -2008

K0Z = Danaher, ca. 2010 - 2011

K2Z = Danaher, ca. ? - ?

K6Z = Danaher, ca. 2010 - 2011

K7Z = Danaher, ca. 2010 - ?

K4W = Danaher, ca. 2007 - ?

K9W = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2009

KAA = Danaher, ca. 2011 - ?

KR = Danaher, ca. 2005 - 2008

KU = Danaher, ca. 1992 - 2005

KV = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008

KW = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, probably earlier

KX = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, probably earlier

KY = Danaher, ca. 2009 - 2011

KZ = Danaher, ca. 2010 - 2011

L1X = Danaher, ca. 2008 - ?

LC = probably Lectrolite, ca. ? - 1964

L SI = Simmonds International, ca. 2008 - 2011

LZ = Danaher, Made in Taiwan, ca. 2010 - ?

M6W = Dahaher, ca. 2007 - 2008

M6Y = Dahaher, ca. 2009 - 2009

M7Y = Danaher, ca, ? - ?

MG = MG Spa, Italy, ca. 1970 - 1973 (note-found on vernier calipers)

N = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2009

OA = Unknown U.S. manu., ca. ? - ?

P = Wilde, ca. 2008 - 2011, perhaps earlier

Q = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2006

R = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2006

PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2009

Q PR = Pratt Read, ca. ? - ?

S PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008

T PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008

U PR1-3 = Pratt Read, ca. 2008

V PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008

W PR = Pratt Read, ca 2007 - 2009

X PR = Pratt Read, ca 2009 - 2009

ST = Stanley Works, likely Taiwanese made, ca. 2007 - 2009
(note- this is a Canadian Craftsman series code)

T1V = Danaher, ca. 2006 - 2007

T2W = Danaher, ca. 2008

T3W = Danaher, ca. 2008

T3Y = Danaher, ca. 2004

T4Z = Danaher, ca. 2010 - 2011

T5V = Danaher, ca. 2008

T5W = Danaher, ca. 2008

T1X = Danaher, ca. ? - 2007

T2X = Danaher, ca. ? - 2007

T5X = Danaher, ca. 2008

T-hex (T inside hex outline) = Milbar, ca. 2010 - 2011

V = Moore Drop Forge, ca. 1946 - 1967

V (continued) = Easco, ca. 1968 - 1986 perhaps as late as 1991 as NOS

VE = Danaher, ca. ? - ?

VF = Danaher, ca. likely early 1990's

VG = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 1995

VH = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 1997

VJ = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 2008

VK = Danaher, ca. 1996 - ?

VL = Danaher, ca. 1995

VM = Danaher, ca. 1998 - ?

VN = Danaher, ca. 1999 - 2001

VP = Danaher, ca. 2000 - ?

VQ = Danaher, ca. 2001 - 2004

VR = Danaher, ca. 2002 - ?

VS = Danaher, ca. 1995 - 2003

VT = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2006

VU = Danaher, ca. 2005

VV = Easco, ca. 1974 - 1989

VV continued = Danaher, ca. 1990 - 2011

VW = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2009

V^(2nd V inverted) = Danaher, Armstrong Division, ca. 1992 - 2011

^V(1st V inverted) = Danaher, ca. 2010 - ?

VVH = Danaher, ca. 2000 - ?

VVL = Danaher, ca. 2000 - ?

VVN = Danaher, ca. 2005

VVS = Danaher, ca. 2003

VVT = Danaher, ca. 2004 - 2005

VVV = Danaher, ca. 2008

VVW = Danaher, ca. 2008

VVX = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, possibly earlier

VVY = Danaher, ca. 2009 - 2009

VVZ = Danaher, ca. 2010 - 2011

W = SK Hand tools, post-Facom , ca. 2005 - 2008

WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - 2011

WF ll = Western Forge, ca. 1969 - ?

WF D = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

WF J = Western Forge, ca. 1991 - ?

WF K = Western Forge, ca. ?

WF L = Western Forge, ca. ? - 2009

WF R = Western Forge, ca. ?

WF U = Western Forge, ca. 2008

WF V = Western Forge, ca. 2008 - 2011

WF W = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009

WF X = Western Forge, ca. 2008 - 2009

WF Y = Western Forge, ca. 2009 - 2011

WF Z = Western Forge, ca. 2010 - 2011

A WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

B WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

C WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

D WF = Western Forge, ca. 1993 - 2000

E WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

F WF = Western Forge, ca. 2003

G WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

H WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

J WF = Western Forge, ca. 1995

K WF = Western Forge, ca. 1995

L WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

M WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

N WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

O WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

P WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

Q WF = Western Forge, ca. 1990 - 1995

R WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

S WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - 2009

T WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009

U WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

V WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009

W WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009

X WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - 2009

Y WF = Western Forge, ca. 2009 - 2011

Z WF = Western Forge, ca. 2010 - 2011

+ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?

* WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?

> WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

|| WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

∆ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1966 - ?

□ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?

7 WF = Western Forge, ca. ? - ?

X = SK Hand tools, post-Facom , ca. 2008 - 2009

X = Mayhew, ca. 2010 - 2011

Y = Danaher, Made in China, ca. 2009 - 2010

Z = Mayhew, ca. 1957 - 2011

3 = Kastar, ca. 1991

4 = Kastar, ca. 1992

7 = Easco, ca. 1987 - 1991 (SS & Lifetime ratchets)

[ = Kastar, ca. 2002 - 2009 possibly earlier

Hex-Line = Kastar, ca. 2009 - ?

.(Dot) = SK, ca. 2008 - 2009

 

[davbell22602]

So "E" is made by stanley which is taiwan made or is it still Easco? So how you tell the 2 "g's" apart since there was a change?

 

[RetroC10Sport]

I think that list is partially wrong there. My E series say made in U.S.A. and are identical to some Eascos I have.

One G s upside down (The good ones) and one is right side up (the ones to stay away from as the chrome peels, they also break easily.)

The Vs and VVs are the best to get.

 

[davbell22602]

I think that list is partially wrong there. My E series say made in U.S.A. and are identical to some Eascos I have.

One G s upside down (The good ones) and one is right side up (the ones to stay away from as the chrome peels, they also break easily.)

The Vs and VVs are the best to get.

OK, That set I got from mom and dad for HS graduation back june of 96 has upside down g's on all the sockets.

 

[davbell22602]

Hey Retro

Found Snapon 1/4 drive 5/16 12pt socket swallow today at the pawn shop. 1987 date code (7), USA, and TMDIO is stamped on the socket too.

 

[Christian Nelson]

I always tell people to begin with the cheapest harbor freight fine china they can get.

Even the cheap stuff nowadays is better than some name brand from years ago, and if it breaks then replace it with Craftsman etc..

This way you get a solid base to work with while you find out what tools you use most and which ones need to be a bit higher quality. Husky, Craftsman, so long as they keep replacing the tool no questions asked, they will have my business. I won't buy Snap On anymore because I bought a whole set of sockets, and the guy wouldn't replace one of them because I had used a hammer to remove a stuck nut from the socket and it broke. They charge twice what Craftsman does and I have never had this issue with them. I told the snapon guy he's lost my business for life at that point. From then on, I never looked back.

I like Craftsman for most everything. Lisle for specialty tools, Harbor Freight for stuff I don't use much (many harbor freight stores will replace busted tools too BTW) Husky to me is same as Craftsman if you have a Home Depot around you.

Man I wish nice boxes like that US General were around for that kind of price when I was a mechanic!! That is a nice box!! I paid more than twice for less than half the tool box you've got there!

Ratchetting box wrenches, I liked Stanley actually better than Gear Wrench, but I can't find them anymore, they used to be cheaper than Craftsman regular combination wrenches!

I get the cheapest tool for the job, because frankly I've had more trouble with theft/loss than with breakage. Sure I bust stuff, I am hard on tools, but you can buy like six whole sets for the price of one Snap On the the might decide you misused the tool and won't replace it anyhow!

 

[towman]

you must have had a crappy snap on dealer, i get my stuff replaced no questions asked