Hydraulic clutch not engaging as far as it should.

[AyWoSch Motors]

I just got my truck running for the first time in a year the other day, and after it sitting and me replacing and upgrading the clutch to a 12in instead of an 11in, now i cant drive it.
I can start it, if it's in neutral and clutch in, but I cant get it in gear. 1st, 2nd, 3rd won't go in, low just grinds. If you try to start it with clutch in and in gear, it lurches forward.
Obviously the clutch isnt releasing as it should. Clutch and pressure plate are brand new and installed correctly, release bearing is new and installed correctly, the clutch arm has been cleaned and lubed. I assumed it must be that there was air in the lines, so I bled the system in place, still nothing. I took the slave cyl off cleaned and lubed it, bench bled it, installed it, bled it in place, still nothing.

Theres no adjustment on the rod, no damage, nothing changed under there since I last drove it, other than bigger clutch, new engine, and year of elapsed time.
What could it be? I believe I did everything right. Could it be the clutch master cyl is bad?

Its driving me nuts. I've done everything I can think of doing, and I'm itching to drive the truck again.

Please help, I'm stumped.

 

[CheemsK1500]

I'm going to guess the slave cylinder or something related to it. I had a Dodge truck with a hydraulic clutch do something similar, and slave cylinder ended up being the problem.

 

[Redfish]

If there is air trapped in the master cylinder it will do exactly what you are describing. I made the mistake of replacing my clutch master cylinder the night before I was supposed to leave for Cruising The Coast. I could not drive the truck...

Does it feel like you are getting full resistance against the clutch pedal? Or does it feel mushy and soft? Just like your brakes, you will be able to tell if you have air in the system.

Try unbolting the master cylinder from the firewall and tilting it to get the air out of the port where the top reservoir port enters. I was able to push the entire cylinder in against the push rod to partially actuate it and I soon had it all bled out. It helps if someone can hold a little pressure against the clutch pedal while you do it.

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

If there is air trapped in the master cylinder it will do exactly what you are describing. I made the mistake of replacing my clutch master cylinder the night before I was supposed to leave for Cruising The Coast. I could not drive the truck...

Does it feel like you are getting full resistance against the clutch pedal? Or does it feel mushy and soft? Just like your brakes, you will be able to tell if you have air in the system.

Try unbolting the master cylinder from the firewall and tilting it to get the air out of the port where the top reservoir port enters. I was able to push the entire cylinder in against the push rod to partially actuate it and I soon had it all bled out. It helps if someone can hold a little pressure against the clutch pedal while you do it.

I'll try that, thanks.

 

[fast 99]

Those hydraulic systems have always been a PITA to bleed. I bleed them in an unusual way. Suck the fluid out of the master. Using a new oil squirt can filled with brake fluid and a piece of vacuum hose on it open the slave bleeder and attach the hose trying not to lose to much fluid. Pump fluid in until the master is full, close the bleeder, remove the hose. Usually that will get the air out. If it doesn't the first time do the same procedure a second time. Don't ask me why or how it works but have done it that way numerous times.