How to... lift Suburban 4x4

[roundhouse]

Off-road design is a good one. When lifting a suburban I would suggest staying away from blocks, mainly because the suburbans have much more weight in the back, the suspensions sags and you get an unlevel stance.

The shackle flip from ORD is another “cheap” way to lift the rear. More expensive than blocks but a lot stronger and safer, and is less expensive than new leaf springs.

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True but it’s a real pain to get the rivets out
We did it and used stock height Alcan springs

That’s the best ridding way to do a lift in the back
But also the most work

 

[Christian Nelson]

Your cheapest way to get enough lift without replacing driveshafts, and stuff for 38" tires would be a combination of a 4" suspension lift, and a 3" body lift. I've seen a heavy half ton get away with 38/16/15 tires on only a 3" body lift. But, he didn't care if there was some fender rub on the old rusty truck.

A 4" suspension + 3" body lift should be adequate lift though, and not need driveshafts, crossover steering, etc.

The truck I currently have had 40's on it, with 4" suspension+3"body lift.

I am going to probably take the body lift out because I don't anticipate ever going above 35"

 

[PrairieDrifter]

True but it’s a real pain to get the rivets out
We did it and used stock height Alcan springs

That’s the best ridding way to do a lift in the back
But also the most work

I mean for the better results and more safety, the extra work is worth it. A torch, an air hammer, and a grinder can make it go pretty fast, none of those things are “that” expensive. Tools like those will also end up paying for themselves in no time.

Suburbans and blazers are more work since you have to drop the fuel tank, but after 30 years of being on the road it’s a good idea to replace the rubber lines and fuel filler neck in the first place, and the fuel tank straps usually need some work and the sending unit even.

I’m going to do all the above in one shot when I get the money for it. Do the whole rear suspension and since the fuel tank is out replace what needs to be and that’s a good chunk of items to be checked off the list. Easily a weekend project if you have everything you need ready to go.

 

[77 K20]

When I did my shackle flip I just used a punch to mark the center of the rivet then had a good set of drill bits. I drilled out the center a bit then used a big hammer and a chisel to knock the head off. Then the punch to push the rivet thru.
Wasn't "fun" but wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.
I tried to just use the chisel to knock the whole head right off and that wasn't a possibility. (for me)

 

[Overland Suburban]

I mean for the better results and more safety, the extra work is worth it. A torch, an air hammer, and a grinder can make it go pretty fast, none of those things are “that” expensive. Tools like those will also end up paying for themselves in no time.

Suburbans and blazers are more work since you have to drop the fuel tank, but after 30 years of being on the road it’s a good idea to replace the rubber lines and fuel filler neck in the first place, and the fuel tank straps usually need some work and the sending unit even.

I’m going to do all the above in one shot when I get the money for it. Do the whole rear suspension and since the fuel tank is out replace what needs to be and that’s a good chunk of items to be checked off the list. Easily a weekend project if you have everything you need ready to go.

Yep it might be a little more work but well worth it IMO! Not only is it stronger with less axle wrap BS going on but the way it drops the rear of the spring it helps keep a more correct pinion angle. My Burb had 4" blocks in the rear when I bought it and I switched it over to 4" ord's

Tracy

 

[Curt]

2” lift springs-deaver
HD shackles-off-road design
Shocks-bilstien
1 ton tie rod ends-Ac Delco
Steering box brace-off-road design
New stock brake lines
4.5” bump stops-off-road design

 

[Vbb199]

Thank you...

I am on 33” tires now and really want 38” on it.. dont really know if 4” is enough..

1000$ sounds affordable.. I’ll definently ask Alcan og Deaver..


Gear ratio is 4.10 i think...

38" tires?
6" lift minimum or like someone else said 4" suspension with 3" body lift, but I don't do body lifts. It's just "not right" in my opinion

The 6" lift would be ideal but that's also depending on your wheel backspacing, 4.10 is pushing it unless you've got a healthy motor under the hood to turn the tires.

6" lift will win you a almost maxed out slip shaft in the rear, and you'll need to modify your front drive shaft by about approximately 3 or 4"

 

[Curt]

38” tires won’t last very long on anything less than a one ton running gear,if the truck is used offroad.Just my opinion

 

[Overland Suburban]

4” won’t be enough for 38s unless you trim the fenders a little

Lifting it enough for 38s without fender trimming is gonna need to be 6-8 inches and expensive due to the steering , driveshaft and other mods

Usually every 2” you raise the height of the vehicle you lose 1 MPG

I’ve seen a K5 with 40s and no lift
But lots of fender trimming

Check the axle ratio
4.11 will be barely ok for 38s

But a lot of burbs had 3.08 or 3.73

I've got 36" tires with 4:56 gears and 4th gear overdrive is pretty tall. I Definately would not want 38" with 4:11 gears unless I was useing a SM465 4 speed manual or 3 speed automatic. My 4" lift is perfect for 36" tires. I'm going to go with 40s but will cut my fenders rather than lift over 4" to keep drive line angles reasonable. I hated the 4" blocks in the rear that my burb came with simply because I do offroad a lot and axle wrap sucks. 4" shackle drops from summit racing solved that problem