How many mounts should SM465/NP208 have? + 4x4 light + linkage

[Curt]

I would take the driveshaft loose from rear axle,bottom it out in the transfercase,then about 2 to 3” out should be plenty for movement and spline engagement

 

[AuroraGirl]

I would take the driveshaft loose from rear axle,bottom it out in the transfercase,then about 2 to 3” out should be plenty for movement and spline engagement

so if i bottom it out, i should have no more than 3 inches to where the drive shaft would bolt on? That makes sense. I could do this and maybe push my truck on flat ground with a helper and see if i can notice any substanial twist, esp if its not connected.

 

[Vbb199]

@bucket

new relevant question.

is it possible the length difference in tailshaft is a combination of the tcase being too far forward of the truck because of the crossmember/mount, the mount breaking allowing twist and motor mounts being warn so the whole thing is able to move forward,

ON TOP Of broken leaf springs, esp the top leaf on the driver side, allowing the differential to twist rearward(broken on the rear side of driver spring) .

I ask because im looking for springs for f150 and people said because of my high-weight use i should look at eitehr heavy duty springs or consider anti-twist devices, and i thought damn maybe my springs broken in numerous places with a LOT of weight in the back and a good amount of torque+ clutch dumping probably moves that like a MFer.

So my angle of driveshaft could be affected on pinion AND t case, assuming t case is tilted forward and diff is pointed up or down(related to its normal spot)
@Vbb199 i feel you may have some input on anti-twist because of off roading? id appreciate it fam
or anyone of course lol

When you accelerate forward on ANY rear suspension condition with leaf springs (new, broke, big lift, factory springs, sagging), the pinion kicks downward, in high HP application or heavy hauling, the problem is multiplied.

Even in 4x4 ****, it exceptionally gets worse.

Your best bet is to setup anti wrap bars, Trac bars, or ladder bars.

In your application, just a single anti wrap bar would spare you alot of trouble.


The bar runs from the axle housing to the frame, in the most parallel fashion in relation to the frame rail.


Applying big torque with no load, or low torque with a heavy payload, or big torque to a big payload (worse), twists the leaf springs when you accelerate

 

[idahovette]

When you accelerate forward on ANY rear suspension condition with leaf springs (new, broke, big lift, factory springs, sagging), the pinion kicks downward, in high HP application or heavy hauling, the problem is multiplied.

Even in 4x4 ****, it exceptionally gets worse.

Your best bet is to setup anti wrap bars, Trac bars, or ladder bars.

In your application, just a single anti wrap bar would spare you alot of trouble.


The bar runs from the axle housing to the frame, in the most parallel fashion in relation to the frame rail.


Applying big torque with no load, or low torque with a heavy payload, or big torque to a big payload (worse), twists the leaf springs when you accelerate

UH, don't think so, Vince. Pinion lifts under acceleration??

 

[Vbb199]

UH, don't think so, Vince. Pinion lifts under acceleration??

Ya, you right

 

[AuroraGirl]

ok, well that still makes sense. up or down would still see a change in length needed. upward just wouldnt affect my driveshaft angle as much unless the engine/tcase were tilted back i guess. i think after i get new springs ill install a device to keep that wrap under control. i wouldnt do it this year, simply because one winter shouldnt kill springs. these are 40 years old and ABUSED.