how fast is your power window?

[Gilmore]

Mine go up and down in just a few quick seconds but that is because I put in a new channel kit and the electrical upgrade relay kit both from LMC. https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-87-chevy-gmc/cc-csb-heavy-duty-power-window-harness

 

[wingman50]

Installed this harness on my ‘81. Maybe not as fast as a new truck but very close. LMC Truck. This kit hooks to the battery. The windows in are trucks are powered from the switch.

Heavy-Duty Power Window Harness​

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Ch

 

[59840Surfer]

In 2024, folks throw the transmission into reverse as soon as the car starts, pulling out of their driveway texting, steering, latching their seatbelt, tearing open a bag of chips, popping a bottle of Moutain Dew and fiddling with the HVAC. With their other hand they are working the power window, locks and remote mirrors.
In 1987, I just sat there and marveled at the magic of the power window as it went up and down, and up and down.
Brand new, a squarebody power window was maybe 2/3 the speed of the modern vehicle. Some people have worked with the grounds, regulators, motors, wiring sizes and relays to speed them up a bit, but times were slower back then too.

The problem was that in the old days, electricity was slower - like the speed of light had to be amended about 18 years ago too.

I thought everybody knew.

 

[59840Surfer]

If I would have had my choice, I would have chosen manual even though my power windows work well. I say keep them.

I wonder if I can find a conversion to manual for the rear window.

New guides, new rubber, new motor, heavier wire to the window motor --- all helped, but I have to keep the engine running to be able to just push the button to make it go up.

If I can coerce my wife or whomever is in the shotgun seat, to go out and grab the glass and "help" pull the glass up --- it may still take a few minutes.

 

[squaredeal91]

There like waiting on a woman. I don't mind

 

[idahovette]

@squaredeal91 you are a WISE MAN!!!!!!!

 

[CountKrunk]

Haha Yeah it's not everyone's cup of tea. I don't care for the red on red, that's too much. But white on red is gorgeous.

Off topic but what's your exterior color choice if the interior is dark blue.

 

[CountKrunk]

But yes, from all the threads I've read it's nurelic or bust

I'm contemplating converting manual to auto up front and leaving cranks in the back when i do the interior remodel.

 

[TotalyHucked]

Off topic but what's your exterior color choice if the interior is dark blue.

One of the blues. I don't much care for a white truck with blue interior, red only in that instance. But blue interior looks best with a blue exterior IMHO. Black with a blue interior is also strange to me

 

[Snoots]

I wonder if I can find a conversion to manual for the rear window.

New guides, new rubber, new motor, heavier wire to the window motor --- all helped, but I have to keep the engine running to be able to just push the button to make it go up.

If I can coerce my wife or whomever is in the shotgun seat, to go out and grab the glass and "help" pull the glass up --- it may still take a few minutes.

Your issue is likely with the switch. Use the switch to power a relay with the relay connecting power to the motor.

 

[82sbshortbed]

My passenger side is not working and drivers side needs assistance up or down on the 82. But the new used doors I got to replace them have power windows. I have two new motors I got before I found the doors. So I'll have to see how they act when I put the doors on. Maybe add relays while they're off.

The 84 has cranks but the passenger side is too hard to crank down. So still gotta look into that one too.

 

[rwjtexas]

My two cents !!!
Like everyone else, my 85 windows (Doors & Endgate) ran slow compared to todays window speed.

In my resotraton, I relpaced the motors, regulators, felt, in the doors and in the endgate, the regulator, drive cable, and felt and left the motor aloone.

They were even slower after the replacement and i used silicon lube in the felt tracks and also a special Honda Window Lube grease I found out about on the internet searches.

I decided to go with the relays after much consideration.

I looked at the LMC Kits as well as building my own.

I found the K5 Squared Full Power Relay Kits that contained both the doors and the Endgate.

I went with this package due to cost for the package versus purchasing the doors then deciding to add the engate.
Full Power $125.00
Doors only $100.00
Endgate only $95.00

Installation is super easy once you see enough videos and follow the instructions. The only issue I really had was running the Power Line from the battery down the frame to the endgate utiliizing the existing wiring loom. It was tight and a challange, but I was able to get it done.

I am fully satisfied in the results of the added relays.

I did the doors one weekend as I was working on the interior and had not put the door panels back on at that time.

I installed the endgate relay the next weekend and it took a couple of hours only because of wanting to use the wiring loom and not just zip tying the power lead to the exisitng loom and wiring.

K5 Squared full power relay

Wiring harness that will help the speed of power windows in K5 Blazer, and Jimmy. Wires, fuses, relays, mounting hardware, and connectors are all included to complete this upgrade on your K5. **ALL KITS ARE MADE TO ORDER, SHIPMENT MAY BE DELAYED A FEW DAYS**

k5squared.com

To sum it up .. I am extremely happy with the end results...
Good Luck

 

[59840Surfer]

Your issue is likely with the switch. Use the switch to power a relay with the relay connecting power to the motor.

I'm seriously considering this.

Right now I'm angry at my K5 because it flattened the cam and I'm contemplating a crate 350. Urg-g-gh!

I digress .......

One thing I did that keeps me from having to buy new drive-cables for the rear motor-to-transmission is that I JB Weld-ed the end that goes into the motor-in-place.

If it jumps out once --- which it likes to do when the motor is strong and the window is stronger --- it won't stay in ever again.

It's those two latches that are just eyebrow cutouts that hold the cable into the motor nose - that fail.

JB to the rescue and I've not had to replace a drive-cable in over 10 years now.

Ya gotta admit it's a flakey setup though --- right?