Holley issues

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

iamtherealJayy

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Posts
1,584
Reaction score
277
Location
Tennessee
First Name
Jacob
Truck Year
1987, 1978, 1976
Truck Model
V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
I was told to clean and rebuild it then tune it. I can’t tune it when the rebuild made it worse to the point it won’t run.
 

Ricko1966

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Posts
5,445
Reaction score
8,677
Location
kansas
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
What are you using for a fuel pump? Kill the fuel supply how ever you have too. Start your truck and run the carb out of gas. Now assuming you aren't feeding too much fuel pressure lower both floats as low as you can get them. Supply fuel again crank it bottle feed it if you have to but slowly sneak your primary float up to the fuel site plug. Do the same to the secondary. If they won't adjust to where they should be I would assume you have a bad needle and seat or a bad float. If they set great,if not take the carb back apart,change the needle and seat put the floats in a can of gas and make sure they float,and give them a little time to see if they sink.if they don't sink put it back together.
 

Ricko1966

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Posts
5,445
Reaction score
8,677
Location
kansas
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
I can't link this I guess because it's a pdf anyway instructions from holley I assume everything you will need to know. I only skimmed it. Also a link to the correct holley brand carb kit. Although that ship may have sailed.Are you sure you even got the right kit?
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_2023-01-27_225051.jpg
    Screenshot_2023-01-27_225051.jpg
    72.9 KB · Views: 55
Last edited:

SirRobyn0

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Posts
6,755
Reaction score
11,402
Location
In the woods in Western Washington
First Name
Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
@Ricko1966 does have a point about fuel pressure. If you had to much fuel before the rebuild and you still do.... But before you didn't have gas spilling out everywhere now you do. So it's clearly worse.

I would do exactly as Rick has suggested cut the fuel supply off. Lower the floats, all the way that's by loosening the screw and turning the nut all the way down. Fire up the truck and run it until it stalls. This will drain the primary bowl for sure, the secondaries might still have fuel in them, but you might be able to get creative to get that out or at least a bit lower like snapping the throttle a few times to get them to open and use at least some of the fuel out it.

Then turn the fuel supply back on and crank the truck. It should refuse to start, or if it does start the fuel level should be well below the sight plug. Assuming it refused to start, working with the primary side only slowly increase the amount, maybe 1/4 or 1/2 turn of the nut at a time until it starts. Once it's running set both floats the normal way with the engine running. Ok, so if it floods gas everywhere when the nut is turned all the way in, I'd suggest that you pull the primary float bowl, or possibly both float bowls and post good detailed pictures. Maybe one of us will spot the problem in the pictures.

Additional note: Rebuilding carburetors is not particularly hard, even Q-jets which some people find daunting. The main things
#1 cleanliness, even the smallest spec of dirt or sometimes even lint off a rag can plug a passage or keep a float from sealing properly.
#2. It is very helpful to have compressed air so you can blow out passages, and dry off parts you have cleaned. As well a little blast of air can insure there is no dirt on something before reassembly. If compressed air is not available a can of air, like the stuff used for cleaning computer parts will work.
#3. Measuring out and setting adjustments correctly the first time.
#4. Knowing how to disassemble and reassemble correctly, since we all carry a smart phone in our pockets there really is not excuse for not knowing how to reassemble something we have taken apart. I remember back in the day drawing out how parts would go back together when rebuilding a carb I didn't know well.
#5. Knowing what to do when you have rebuilt a carburetor and something doesn't work right after.
#6. It is EXTREMELY helpful to be able to learn the art of carburetor overhaul from someone in person that can correct you or help you as you go along.

If all else fails for $249 you can purchase a rebuilt Edlebrock 1406 for national carburetors. Now I'd really like you to succeed with this rebuild, and I think your very close if you can get this flooding issue taken care of I just wanted you to know there is a way out if there comes a point that you have had enough. Keep in mind you'll at least need an adaptor if you decide to switch.
 

iamtherealJayy

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Posts
1,584
Reaction score
277
Location
Tennessee
First Name
Jacob
Truck Year
1987, 1978, 1976
Truck Model
V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
Stock fuel pump, I stopped the fuel supply by using needle nose hose grips with electrical tape wrapped several times around the end, then let the truck stall. The primaries were pretty empty with a little seeping around the bottom screws, I didn’t take the secondary bowl off I don’t know how to tell if it’s empty other than the sight plug but it was way over full I need to get fuel out of it. I think I can get the primary side to adjust out fine, how do I know when it’s as low as it can get? The secondary side is turned in probably 5 rotations. I don’t want to turn it in too far and I can’t get it back out with the nut. @Ricko1966 i don’t see 1850 on the list of models for that kit, so never touching a holley prior I wouldn’t assume it to be for an 1850. I ordered a walker products set the second time, I’ve had good luck with walker and quadrajet’s previously. @SirRobyn0 i have no issue taking this carb back off after I found it easier to take the primary bowl off to access the nut by the throttle linkage. I didn’t have any issue with the quadrajets other than getting the linkages to all play nice when putting the top plate back on, occasional struggling getting all the needles and rods to line up, so I know I’m capable. I got an air compressor for christmas from my mom, but I’ve got no way to power it out in the barn lol. I’m going to hobo freight and lowes later today when I go to Murray to get that ls. I’ll see if I can find a can of that compressed air I’ve seen it before. I need to find some pneumatic wheels I can put on my cherry picker so I can actually use it. I thought I had everything adjusted good the first time with the floats set level with the bowl upside down. And the idle mix screws 1-1/2 turn out. For those screws, is the seal a plastic piece or an Oring? I used to take pictures as I took stuff apart, how I did drum brakes for the first time. I don’t have anyone in person that could even tell me the difference in a c30 and a k10. I only have one friend that’s even somewhat familiar with vehicles and he’s a Ford guy.. first start on his 302 it ran like crap and he couldn’t figure out why.. he didn’t have any vacuum lines ran or capped.. so that’s what I’ve got. If all else fails I’ve got about 16 other old holleys, probably 10 quadrajet, and after the ls swap I’ll have a good edelbrock 1405 off my daily lol or holley sells reman 1850 carbs for around 250 aswell. I know I can get it going without a doubt it’ll just take time, it took almost a year for me to get my 78 to the point I thought it was good enough to drive. What would the adapter do? It’s got an edelbrock intake I noticed. It’s got the open square bore instead of four independent holes.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,157
Posts
950,557
Members
36,268
Latest member
JUKA
Top