Hitch Class

[Doppleganger]

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This is the hitch that my K20 came with. I was told it was a Class 3. No idea. It bolts to the bumper here but goes back and up over top of the spare tire.....cant see where it attaches without pulling the spare. Not sure if this was an actual store bought item or something cobbled.

Reading about hitches in general, Reese says to go for a Class 5 hitch if towing cars, trucks, etc on a trailer. Thats what I intend to do.

So my questions are - what is the hitch I have? The plug was shot (removed it) - and was going to have it blasted and powder coated, but if a Class 5 is heavier, a GOOD Reese is actually fairly cheap, and I'll get one of them for < c-note the difference in messing with this one. Then I'd peddle this one.

Thx.

 

[bucket]

Class V is really not that common, other than on expensive newer trucks.

That hitch you have there, you just need to get a good look at it, it's welds, the quality of materials and all it's attachment points and make a judgment call. Just from that photo, the tubing looks like thin wall and that end is only supported by a couple bolts in the bumper.

 

[Doppleganger]

Original owner said he used this truck for some farm duty - he had a 5th wheel for a livestock trailer and also said he pulled grain wagons.

Leaning towards a newer hitch - this one doesn't look bad (welds, condition) but I'm not crazy about the bumper end of it and the newer ones bolt to the frame in several places.

Thanks.

 

[shiftpro]

Give it the American Graffiti test... slide your hitch into the receiver, hook up about 60-70' of 3/8" cable.. hook the other end to something
you know WON'T MOVE... and pin it! If the cable breaks your good to go. If the hitch and bumper get removed you then can install a proper
strong hitch. Aren't you glad I'm your friend?

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Original owner said he used this truck for some farm duty - he had a 5th wheel for a livestock trailer and also said he pulled grain wagons.

Leaning towards a newer hitch - this one doesn't look bad (welds, condition) but I'm not crazy about the bumper end of it and the newer ones bolt to the frame in several places.

Thanks.

I wouldn't recommend, but my 79 k10 used the factory ball hole in the bumper. We hauled tandem axle, like 16 or 18ft bumper pull livestock trailers for years and years and never had a problem. That's 4-5 cow calf pairs too, not a light load in the slightest. Granted that much weight only went 5 miles at most but through corrals pastures and dirt roads, no faster than 45. So a decent frame mount hitch will do whatever you need.

 

[Craig 85]

The brackets attaching the bumper are critical. Although this is not an OEM bumper, the brackets are. The U shaped one (shown on the left) is often removed over the years. This will lower the tow capacity without it. For the money, I would get an aftermarket receiver. They spread the load over the frame more.

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[80BrownK10]

I would buy a Reese or Curt hitch. Get the class IV or V like you said there cheap and you won't have to fool with that one. And like someone said that just has two bolts to hold the back up. I'm sure two grade 8s that size will hold but I'd rather have something new and know

 

[clendon1]

Get a class 5 hitch rated @ 17000 # and don't worry !!

 

[85 CA SIERRA 1500]

I have a B&W rated for 16,000 Trailer weight and I think 1600 for tongue weight. I'm pretty sure that these max numbers only apply if using an equalizer set-up in the receiver though