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Mr_Ryumaru

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Lunati has a series of cams they refer to as “bare bones”.. They are flat tappet design and I believe most of these cams will work with stock valve strain , but to be on the safe side, I’d use 7/16” pushrods..

First choice would be:

Hydraulic Flat Tappet. Good idle for daily usage or towing. Great low end and mid range torque.

  • Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 280/290

  • Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 214/224

  • Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .501/.527

  • LSA/ICL: 112/107

  • Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd

  • RPM Range: Idle-5000

  • Includes: Cam & Lifters (#71817PR-16)

    Part Number: 10110101LK

    My “less radical” second choice would be:

    Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam. Great for daily driver or towing appli- cations. Works with TBI fuel injection. Smooth idle.
  • Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 270/280

  • Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 204/214

  • Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .476/.501

  • LSA/ICL: 112/107

  • Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd

  • RPM Range: Idle-4500

  • Includes: Cam & Lifters (#71817PR-16)

    Part Number: 10110100LK
Both these cams are in the $130.00 price range for cam and lifters...

Thank you so much. And I would just get OEM springs to run with those?

I'm partial to roller cams simply because flat tappets are NOT compatible with today's engine oils. One has to use oil additives to bring the zinc level up so the cam can survive.. These additives will destroy a catalytic converter in short order.. Plus strict break-in procedures must be followed with flat tappets or the cam will eat itself up..

BBCs, by nature of their large displacement and other factors, are torque producing engines.. Select a cam (I like Lunati simply because they are made in the USA) that has enough lift but will not coil bind stock springs. And not so much duration that idle quality becomes unacceptable and with duration and LSA that doesn't "kill" manifold vacuum.. Duration and LSA have a direct bearing on gas mileage.. Although some fouling will occur, a carburetor that is properly tuned for the engine will not excessively foul sparkplugs during extended idle..

In the winter I also do snow removal for old folks, due to extreme temps here and the fact that carbs and cold weather don't get along, it's often best and sometimes necessary for me to leave the truck idling for periods of 30 minutes to an hour. This is why fouling is a big concern for me.
 

RustyPile

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Thank you so much. And I would just get OEM springs to run with those?

If the OEM springs will support the gross lift (lift at the valve) before going into coil bind, AND not float the valves at max rpm you plan to run, then, yes you can.. In order to remove all doubt, I'd check with the cam manufacturer for their recommendation..

In the winter I also do snow removal for old folks, due to extreme temps here and the fact that carbs and cold weather don't get along, it's often best and sometimes necessary for me to leave the truck idling for periods of 30 minutes to an hour. This is why fouling is a big concern for me.

It's not a good idea to let the engine idle for long periods like that until everything is thoroughly broke in..
 

Mr_Ryumaru

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If the OEM springs will support the gross lift (lift at the valve) before going into coil bind, AND not float the valves at max rpm you plan to run, then, yes you can.. In order to remove all doubt, I'd check with the cam manufacturer for their recommendation..



It's not a good idea to let the engine idle for long periods like that until everything is thoroughly broke in..

NP, also when I posted that i hadn't realized there were two pages I didn't see



Maybe less work to get the ferd running but... not to keep it running.

Hey now, we all know saying one brand breaks down more is silly :p

If the OEM springs will support the gross lift (lift at the valve) before going into coil bind, AND not float the valves at max rpm you plan to run, then, yes you can.. In order to remove all doubt, I'd check with the cam manufacturer for their recommendation..



It's not a good idea to let the engine idle for long periods like that until everything is thoroughly broke in..

Oh I'd be doing a cam break in (That I actually know how to do :p), and everything else should be well broke in long before winter hits.

Just out of curiosity, how much would it really cost to switch to a roller style set-up, and what all would I need?
 

Honky Kong jr

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NP, also when I posted that i hadn't realized there were two pages I didn't see





Hey now, we all know saying one brand breaks down more is silly :p



Oh I'd be doing a cam break in (That I actually know how to do :p), and everything else should be well broke in long before winter hits.

Just out of curiosity, how much would it really cost to switch to a roller style set-up, and what all would I need?
The one I posted is a roller. 7-800 for cam and lifters.
 

RustyPile

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Again we have certain members here recommending retro roller cams for a daily driver.
I will not agree...

Regardless of those who cannot agree to agree to your right to not agree with those of us who do agree, I agree to allow you to not agree.. Agreed??:happy160:
 

Mr_Ryumaru

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The one I posted is a roller. 7-800 for cam and lifters.

Flat Tappet it is, yikes!

So Moving forward I think I'll be deciding between @RustyPile 's suggestions. Now the second one is "Smooth Idling" so does that mean the first one may not be?
 

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The one I posted is a roller. 7-800 for cam and lifters.
Probably need springs too, right? Maybe the heads cut for them? Retainers?(Even with all that, I'm on your side. You just can't beat a roller cam....)
 

Mr_Ryumaru

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Probably need springs too, right? Maybe the heads cut for them? Retainers?(Even with all that, I'm on your side. You just can't beat a roller cam....)

Perhaps some day, but I really cant afford that atm. but hey, maybe I could do a tbi/roller cam conversion later :D
 

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