Hi guys :)

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Honky Kong jr

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Perhaps some day, but I really cant afford that atm. but hey, maybe I could do a tbi/roller cam conversion later :D
That would be like wiping before you poop. Don’t make any sense putting TBI on a big block.
 

RustyPile

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Flat Tappet it is, yikes!

So Moving forward I think I'll be deciding between @RustyPile 's suggestions. Now the second one is "Smooth Idling" so does that mean the first one may not be?
"Smooth idle" is like "sexy girl", it's all in the eyes of the beholder. What's smooth (sexy) to one person could very well be rough (ugly) as a camel's ass to another person.. To me, an engine that shakes the headlights off their mounts at idle and shreds the tires when you stand on it, is just about the sexiest thing that doesn't have legs and ****...

That cam probably has a little "chop" in the idle.. If you're highly concerned with Idle smoothness (for whatever reason), go with the one that has less duration..
 

Snoots

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Also, would anyone happen to have any links to a decent mid-rise intake that's also affordable? I know, pipe dream.

Slap an Edelbrock SP2P on there.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Mr_Ryumaru

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"Smooth idle" is like "sexy girl", it's all in the eyes of the beholder. What's smooth (sexy) to one person could very well be rough (ugly) as a camel's ass to another person.. To me, an engine that shakes the headlights off their mounts at idle and shreds the tires when you stand on it, is just about the sexiest thing that doesn't have legs and ****...

That cam probably has a little "chop" in the idle.. If you're highly concerned with Idle smoothness (for whatever reason), go with the one that has less duration..


**** that ****, I agree. Just was curious. So that cam/lifter kit, 7/16 rods, but what springs?
 

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Perhaps some day, but I really cant afford that atm. but hey, maybe I could do a tbi/roller cam conversion later :D
If you want Honkey Kong and me to continue contributing to your thread, you'll wash your mouth with hand cleaner, delete that post and pray it never surfaces again... lol...:Nonono: :chair::slap::eek:
 

Honky Kong jr

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If you want Honkey Kong and me to continue contributing to your thread, you'll wash your mouth with hand cleaner, delete that post and pray it never surfaces again... lol...:Nonono: :chair::slap::eek:
Let @74 Shortbed get a wiff of that **** too lol Oh and not the Cherry stuff either the powder stuff that actually works.
 

Honky Kong jr

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Thank you so much. And I would just get OEM springs to run with those?



In the winter I also do snow removal for old folks, due to extreme temps here and the fact that carbs and cold weather don't get along, it's often best and sometimes necessary for me to leave the truck idling for periods of 30 minutes to an hour. This is why fouling is a big concern for me.
With a good carb that shouldn’t happen and build it in the spring and drive it around so it won’t be “fresh” anymore.
 

shiftpro

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Ok I'll splain it to ya...

The lifter bores are not true enough for long term roller rockers.
The lifter bores are not deep enough either, especially for high lift rollers. So kinda negates having a radical cam.
Yes you can get lifter bores bored and sleeved with brass, actually extending the brass higher than the block to give more depth
to the bores... but you need a race engine builder to do this. This equipment is not standard fare in automotive machining.
Because of the slight miss-alignment in the lifter bores, the rollers themselves will start to umm. .. loose their **** and galling occurs...
which pollutes the engine with micro (and eventually macro) pieces (flakes) of hardened roller face steel.
These old engines as awesome as the oiling system is, is sub standard for the rollers resulting in... the needle bearings (in the rollers)
giving up the ghost. They are more happy with race engines (but you can't run really high lift cams anyway so moot point) with radical
cam that has a higher idle speed than a daily driver. yes you can buy Redline lifters with bushings instead of needle bearings BUUUUT...
look at the price and **** your pants.

A lot of extra expense for only a very slight boost in performance. Read this sentence over a few dozen times.

Oh and I didn't mention the cam button details... they are not reliable.

Retro roller cam manufactures suggest you inspect every 3000 miles... eeesh.

Fogetaboutit if you want to run propane. Propane engines like to idle down to 500 rpm. Your roller lifters will be having a fit with
oil starvation.

Retro rollers are for hot rods, mud trucks (with 3" body lifts) and anything NOT a daily driver.

Going to retro rollers because you're afraid to break in a flat tappet means... you must not have heard of grooving the lifter bores.

You want to free up some hp? Use an electric fan.

I know, it sounds cool to say "yeah Bubba she's a full roller engine".

Again, it's a very large financial investment for only a very small increase in performance.
 

Mr_Ryumaru

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With a good carb that shouldn’t happen and build it in the spring and drive it around so it won’t be “fresh” anymore.

That's the plan. Carb will likely be a 750cfm Q-jet

If you want Honkey Kong and me to continue contributing to your thread, you'll wash your mouth with hand cleaner, delete that post and pray it never surfaces again... lol...:Nonono: :chair::slap::eek:

Okay okay, carbs4life I guess >.>

So go through the cam manufacturers and use their recommendation for springs. Thanks guys, kinda pumped. While I'm here may as well show my true lack of knowledge on big blocks and just chevys in general. This is planned intake: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2161/overview/make/chevrolet

How bad am I :(
 

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