Help with my 95 olds

[bigcountry78]

Hope you guys can shed some light on my problem. I've got a 95 olds with the 3.8. Sunday evening it start jerking really bad while idling or driving, shutting off at stop lights, and just not running good. Plugs, wires and fuel filter about six months ago, and a new air filter yesterday. It'll idle good now and it will jerk one time every now and then. When driving it will start jerking randomly and then stop as fast as it starts. I'm thinking I may have a bad coil pack but I'm kind of stumped. Maybe bad gas, since it started right after I filled up. Anybody got any ideas? On a side note, here is the air filter that came out of it. Pretty sure its at least part of the problem...

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[bucket]

I think you are on the right track with a faulty coil pack. What brand are the plugs/wires?

 

[yevgenievich]

I have seen the pins in the connector that has crank and cam sensor wires in it be loose on these before. It was part of the wiring going to the coil packs on a 3.8 fwd.

 

[bigcountry78]

Not sure on the brand, I had my mechanic do it because it was doing this same thing. Plus the three plugs on the back were in a very awkward place so I let him handle it. Most likely generic parts store brand but I'll see if I can find a brand name tomorrow. I'm tired of paying someone else to work on my stuff tho so I'm going to tackle this one myself.

 

[bigcountry78]

I have seen the pins in the connector that has crank and cam sensor wires in it be loose on thise before. It was part of the wiring going to the coil packs on a 3.8 fwd.

OK great, that gives me something else to check. I feel like its something electrical.

 

[Georgeb]

Check for DTCs?

 

[bigcountry78]

Dtc?

 

[Georgeb]

Dtc?

Diagnostic trouble code or check engine light. Whats the trouble code?

 

[bigcountry78]

That's what I figured you meant after I posted. Not getting a check engine light, bit I'm going over to advance auto today and let them run the scanner. I guess they still do that.

 

[bigcountry78]

Well I tried advance and O'Reilly and they told me that my car, being a 95, is too old for their readers. It's an ODB1. I knew that but I figured they could at least tell me the code. Anyway, I drove it about 20 miles and it only did it twice. And since I'm not getting a CEL I'm hoping it's just some water in the gas. I guess I'll just have to drive it out and put some fresh in and go from there. Still have an air bag light and an ABS light to figure out though.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Not really OBD-I, it's OBD-I with OBD-II protocalls, commonly called OBD-1.5.

Check the fuel pressure.
Clean the mass air flow sensor with proper cleaner too.
But I am thinking the possibility of ignition module, cam or crank sensor or associated wiring.

 

[bigcountry78]

OK, I'll clean the MAF, but what would I need to check the fuel pressure with? And without trouble codes, what process would I go through to eliminate possible problems? I just put another 25 miles on it and it only skipped once. Got about 100 miles left on this tank.

 

[Darkrider]

On some cars you can trigger the code play back by cycling the key back and forth and on some you can do it by shorting pins in the diagnostic port under the dash. Once you figure out which would work on your car you can get the code by counting the number of flashes of the CEL.

 

[CSFJ]

On some cars you can trigger the code play back by cycling the key back and forth and on some you can do it by shorting pins in the diagnostic port under the dash. Once you figure out which would work on your car you can get the code by counting the number of flashes of the CEL.

The older Chrysler products were the only ones I knew that would work by cycling the key. The GM's need to be grounded out at the diagnostic connector. I'm not positive, but if I remember correctly it's the two pin-outs in the top row on the right side that you need to jump together.

 

[Darkrider]

The older Chrysler products were the only ones I knew that would work by cycling the key. The GM's need to be grounded out at the diagnostic connector. I'm not positive, but if I remember correctly it's the two pin-outs in the top row on the right side that you need to jump together.

Yea i think i picked up that trick from my Turbo Dodge days, i also believe certain imports can be triggered with it as well. There was a device you could buy from Walmart and other stores that you plug into the port that does essentially the same thing as jumping the pins in the GM vehicles.