Help with ignition lock removal - 1984 M1010

[ballencd]

Good evening, I am having an issue with my ignition lock removal. The vehicle is a 1984 M1010 (Military Ambulance). All military trucks are keyed alike so in the interest of security I am trying to change out the ignition key lock and door locks. I have done this before on a M1009 (Military Blazer) and on both an 1988 and 1991 Suburban. I expected this one to be the same but it appears to be missing the bolt with a pin underneath it to secure the lock in position. With the steering wheel and blinker assembly removed I find this. In the 3 aforementioned vehicles there was a bolt in the 2 o'clock position where the empty hole is in the below picture. Clean hole next to the square white plastic with the copper tabs hanging from it. Anyone have an idea where I should go from here?
Thanks
ballencd

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[Strick]

Pull the tan/white plastic with the metal contact. Then take a small screwdriver & insert into that cavity. The lock cylinder should remove then.

HS

 

[ballencd]

Thanks for the info. I almost pulled that but was afraid to do damage. I did watch a video where they just grabbed it with a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled it out so I will certainly try that. I figured there were wires connected to the back of it. The truck is about 50 miles away so it might take a few days. One day soon I will get it home. Thanks again. charlie

 

[DoubleDingo]

Thanks for the info. I almost pulled that but was afraid to do damage. I did watch a video where they just grabbed it with a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled it out so I will certainly try that. I figured there were wires connected to the back of it. The truck is about 50 miles away so it might take a few days. One day soon I will get it home. Thanks again. charlie

That doohickey is for the key buzzer. No wires. My '91 Cherokee is setup like this one here.

 

[ballencd]

Hoping to get at it again in the next few days.

 

[ballencd]

It's been a long while now but a busy year. I figured out that even though it is a 1984, it has an older column in it, which uses the older style key lock cylinder. I ordered the right parts and with Strick's help above I figured out how to get the lock out. It is all back in now and working as it should..... other than now the wipers don't work quite right so I will probably have to go back in and adjust something. It seems like it is always something.
I'll post a few pictures for you guys as I know how you like them.

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[Strick]

It's been a long while now but a busy year. I figured out that even though it is a 1984, it has an older column in it, which uses the older style key lock cylinder. I ordered the right parts and with Strick's help above I figured out how to get the lock out. It is all back in now and working as it should..... other than now the wipers don't work quite right so I will probably have to go back in and adjust something. It seems like it is always something.
I'll post a few pictures for you guys as I know how you like them.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You'd figure with 2 batteries in series @24V that there'd be plenty of juice but unfortunately CUCV trucks have all kinds of wiring gremlins. The wipers are part of the problem too.

HS

 

[ballencd]

The truck uses one battery for a 12V source for everything in the cab.....lights, gauges, heater fan, horn,....etc. nothing in the truck runs on 24V except the starter....(the glow plugs came from factory with a load resistor to drop the GP load voltage down to 12V but I have removed that and run the GP on 12 alone as the rest of the cab) I think part of the gremlin issue with the CUCV's is that here are a lot of extra wires for the maintenance port that from what I have read was never implemented as they never built the test equipment to plug into the port. Then there is the Blackout Light system that adds extra difficulty. The charging system actually works pretty well with the two alternators, each one charging its own battery.